Garten Gestalten

Wachsende Knoblauch: Wie Pflanze, Wachsen, Ernte, und Shop Knoblauch


You’re either going to say ‘yummy,’ ‘vampires,’ ‘bad breath,’ or ‘yuck.’ If you say anything besides yuck, you’ll be interested to know garlic is a simple crop to grow.

Not to mention, it’s good for you as well.

If you’re someone who would like to grow garlic, you’re in the right place. I’m going to share with you how to grow garlic, care for it, and store it.

You’ll be prepared to cook delicious meals or keep vampires at bay in no time flat. Here’s how you grow your own garlic:

Quick Gardening Facts for Garlic

  • Hardiness Zones: 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 (find” yours>)
  • Soil: Loam, PH between 6.0 to 7.0, fertile, well-drained
  • Sun Exposure: Full sun
  • Planting: 4 to 5 weeks before the last frost date or 6 to 8 weeks before the first frost date. Fall planting is more recommended for bigger bulbs.
  • Spacing: 3 to 4 inches between plants and 6 to 8 inches between rows
  • Depth: 2 to 3 inches deep for cloves
  • Best Companions: Rose, apple, peaches, rue, chamomile, potato,” kale dill yarrow>
  • Worst Companions: Beans,” peas sage parsley>
  • Watering: Lightly after planting, every 3 to 5 days during bulbing
  • Fertilizing: 2-3 inches deep compost manure before planting, apply all-purpose fertilizer 2 times a month after planting
  • Common Problems: Purple blotch, downy mildew, rust, white rot, garlic mosaic, leafminers, bulb mites, onion maggot, thrips, lesion nematode
  • Harvest: 90 to 100 days after indoor start, when most leaves have turned brown

Garlic Varieties to Plant

There are two main types of garlic. Each type has a few popular varieties of its kind. Here are your options for which kinds of garlic to grow in your garden:

1. Soft Neck

This type of garlic is the kind most frequently seen at the grocery store. It gets its name because the stalk is flexible and gives the garlic a soft neck. Some popular varieties of this type of garlic are:

  • Silver Skin Garlic: This variety has a bold flavor and is known for being stored up to one year once dried.
  • Artichoke Garlic: This variety is an excellent option if you don’t like a strong garlic flavor. Artichoke garlic’s flavor is less potent.

2. Hard Neck

Hard neck garlic is what its name says it is. This type has a hard stalk which goes all the way up the plant. Here are a few popular varieties of this type:

  • Purple Stripe: If you like baked or roasted garlic cloves, you should grow this type of garlic. It’s best known for being used in this way.
  • Rocambole: This variety of garlic is less challenging to cook with. It peels easily and stores well for up to six months when dried.

How to Plant Garlic

Garlic isn’t a seed; it’s a bulb. This makes planting extremely easy to do. There are a few steps and recommendations you should follow for the best turn out. Here’s what you need to know:

1. Fall Planting

You can plant garlic at two different times. Depending on what planting” zone> you’re in will determine which time of year is best for you to plant.

As a general rule of thumb, if you live in a northern climate, plant in the fall. The reason is, it takes the ground a long time to thaw in the spring. If you wait until you can work the land to plant, your garlic won’t have enough time to develop a robust root system and produce decent sized bulbs.

For this reason, you should plant in the fall. Plant the garlic bulbs eight weeks before your first frost. It should give the bulbs enough time to develop a healthy root system without producing above the ground.

However, be sure to place a six-inch layer of mulch around your garlic bulbs to provide extra insulation during the harsh winter months.

2. Spring Planting

If you live in a southern climate, it’s best to plant garlic bulbs in the early spring. I live in a southern climate; therefore, I plant my garlic bulbs in March.

As soon as the ground thaws enough to work the soil, I begin planting the bulbs, giving them enough time to develop a sturdy root system and have the time needed to produce quality bulbs.

3. Raised Beds are Best

Through my experience, I must recommend growing garlic in raised beds or a container.” the reason being is it much easier to create loose enough soil for bulbs spread and grow in.>

I put compost” in the beds> and plant directly in it. This also allows me to pick the best” location> for my garlic to have full sun.

Also, the better” the soil>, the better the soil drains. Your garlic needs well-draining, looser soil to be able to grow properly. Raised” beds> make it much easier to provide the right” environment> for garlic to grow in.

4. Amend the Soil and Plant

Finally, you’ll need to amend the soil wherever you decide to plant. It’s important the soil is well-draining and fluffy. This makes it easier for the bulb to grow.

As previously mentioned, we purchase composted” manure> from a local” farmer>. I use this manure to fill our raised beds we created from cinderblocks.

From there, I pull the compost back and plant the bulb approximately two inches deep. Place four inches of space between each bulb.

When planting, be sure you break the bulbs apart. This will give you multiple bulbs of garlic from each bulb you plant with.

Be sure to place the broad side of the bulb into the soil and leave the narrow, pointy side sticking up. Cover the bulb with soil (leaving the point sticking out), and you’ve successfully planted garlic.

The great thing about planting garlic is a great deal of it can be planted in smaller spaces. I leave a foot or less between each of my rows of garlic, and this gives each bulb ample room to produce.

How to Care for Garlic

Caring for garlic is also very simple. You need to follow a few steps, and your garlic should thrive. Here’s what you need to do:

1. Remove Mulch

If you live in a northern climate and must” mulch> your garlic bulbs over the winter, remove the mulch when you know any potential for frost has passed.

2. Cut the Flowers

It’s common to see garlic bulbs ‘bloom’ in the spring. They develop flowers at the tops of the stems. If you see this, cut the flowers.

The more energy the bulbs put into the flowers, the less energy and nutrients are going to the bulbs. This leads to smaller garlic bulbs.

3. Ditch the Weeds

Weeds aren’t usually an issue in the early part of spring. As the days pass, you might find some weeds popping up between your garlic bulbs.

When this occurs, I run my fingers between the bulbs gently pulling at the weeds. I don’t want to pull too hard because I don’t want to disturb the bulbs.

I go over my garlic bed once a week gently pulling” the weeds> loose to keep nutrients going to the garlic and not the weeds.

As the season progresses, the garlic stems will get larger and begin to smother out the weeds. I usually don’t have to weed” as much when this happens.>

4. Keep an Eye on the Nitrogen

Garlic loves nitrogen, as do most plants. You need to keep an eye on the nitrogen levels in your soil. The best way to do this is to fertilize” every couple of months.>

If you begin to see the garlic stems turning yellow, you’ll know you have a nitrogen deficiency. Fertilize” at the first sign of this and watch for improvement.>

5. Water Adequately

Garlic can be watered” deeply> one time per week to ensure it gets about ½ inch to an inch of water per week until May and June roll around.

When May and June hit, your garlic will begin to take off. This is when the bulbs of your garlic will grow larger.

This requires a great deal of water. During these months, you should water” the garlic bulbs approximately three times per week.>

6. Prune as You Wish

Garlic doesn’t need to be pruned. If you choose to grow a hard neck variety, you can use the stems for meals.

You can trim the tips of the garlic and sauté them in your meal or use them on top of your meal as an added garnish.

Common Problems with Garlic

If” you new to gardening>, garlic could be a great plant for you to start with. The reason being the simplicity of it to grow, it doesn’t require much care, and there’s practically no threat to the plant from pests” or diseases>.

Garlic is frequently used to deter both pests and diseases in the garden, and apparently vampires as well. Therefore, most things avoid garlic.

Some of the common pests garlic can deter are:

The only threat you could potentially face is white rot. This is a fungus which could attack your bulbs during the cold weather.

There is no way to prevent this from happening. You’ll know the fungus lives in your soil if it attacks your plants.

The best way to try to keep white rot out of your garden is to keep your garden clean and to rotate your crops regularly because the spores of the fungus can remain alive in your soil for years.

Best and Worst Companions

Garlic has many plants which love to be planted around it. Here are the plants which are best suited to be planted near garlic:

Though most plants thrive around garlic, there are a few who suffer from stunted growth when planted near it. Here are the worst companion plants for garlic:

How to Harvest and Store Your Garlic

It shouldn’t come as a surprise, but harvesting” and garlic is as simple the rest of process. here how you reap reward work in growing your own garlic:>

1. Check the Tops

You’ll know it’s time to start checking bulb size when the tops of the garlic begin to fall over and turn yellow.

You don’t want the tops to be fallen over and thoroughly dried before harvest. When the heads begin to fall over and lose color, you should use your garden fork to gently dig below the bulb and lift from under the bulb to remove it from the soil.

If you’re pleased with the size of the garlic bulb, it’s time to harvest. If not, keep an eye on the tops of the garlic to make sure they don’t become too dry.

Keep checking back sporadically. If the tops begin to dry out, you should harvest regardless.

2. Lift and Pull

Harvesting garlic isn’t tricky, but knowing the right time is the only part which can become complicated.

There’s no set time to harvest your garlic because it all depends upon when you planted it. If you’re a northern gardener who must start their garlic in the early part of fall, you could be harvesting garlic as early as July.

However, if you’re a southern gardener and plant in March, you may not harvest until November. This is why watching the tops of your garlic is vital to the growing process.

When you know it’s time to harvest your entire crop of garlic; you’ll use a garden fork to dig below each garlic bulb.

Allow the fork to lift the bulb up out of the soil gently. You’ll repeat this until every bulb has been removed from the soil.

3. Curing is a Necessity

When each bulb has been harvested, dust the dirt off of them. Be gentle because you don’t want to disturb the wrapping around the bulb.

Hang each bulb upside down in a shaded location with excellent airflow. They’ll hang there for 14 days to give each bulb time to cure.

When the wrappers are dry and feel like tissue paper, the garlic bulbs are ready to be stored.

4. Braid and Store

When it’s time to store your garlic bulbs, remove any leaves from them and trim back any remaining roots on the plant.

However, be sure to leave the wrappers intact on the plant. If you have wrappers which are extremely dirty, you can carefully remove them.

Otherwise, leave everything as is. If you wish to store the garlic individually, cut the tops of the garlic off and store in a wooden tray with sawdust or straw separating the layers of bulbs in the drawer.

If you’d prefer to leave the tops attached, braid them together and store the garlic in bulbs. They can hang in your pantry or kitchen as a functional décor item.

If you’re storing large quantities of garlic for the year, be sure to choose a dark, dry location which hovers around 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

5. Plant Again

The great thing about growing your own garlic is you can take what you’ve grown one year and use it to develop a new harvest the next year.

Save the biggest bulbs of garlic from your harvest to use for planting next year’s crop. You’ll follow the steps above to plant and have garlic year after year.

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Garten Gestalten

21 DIY Nistkästen Pläne und Ideen, die Sie an einem Tag bauen

Are you new to raising” chickens> and trying to figure out which nesting box ideas are the best option for you?

This is a common question among many chicken-keepers. You’ll need to hunt for the nesting box plans and ideas which will best fit your set-up.

But you also need to consider the nesting boxes which will fit best into your budget.

Keep in mind; if you begin with a meager budget, you can choose what will work for you now and upgrade your boxes as your budget increases.

Are you ready for some nesting box inspiration? Here are your options:

1. Pallet Nest Box

If you’re working on a tight budget, building your nesting boxes from pallets could be the way to go. This tutorial shows you how to use pallets to create the perfect nesting boxes.

But the best part of building nesting boxes from pallets is they look good. Doing something on a budget doesn’t mean they have to look like it. These nesting boxes fit in this category.

2. Metal Wash Bin

Do you have an old washbin hanging around your property? Maybe you used it to plant flowers.

If you’re done planting flowers in it and need a nesting box for your chickens, the old washbin could be what you need. Fill it with hay, and you have the perfect nesting box for little money.

3. Plastic Storage Bins

Plastic storage bins make a great way to have nesting boxes on a tight budget. You can purchase the storage bins at the dollar store.

From there, use scrap wood or brackets to secure the bins to the coop. Fill it with hay, and your chickens will make it their new favorite laying spot in no time.

4. Kitty Litter Nesting Boxes

Do you have indoor cats? If this is the case, you also have plenty of empty litter containers. Why toss those containers to the landfill when they make perfect nesting boxes?

You need to make a place for the containers to rest on their side. Next, fill them with straw. Before you know it, you’ll have plenty of nesting boxes for little money.

5. Upright Milk Crates

When we first began keeping chickens, we used these milk crates as our nesting boxes. They worked pretty well considering they are made cheap or for free.

The only thing worth mentioning is it’s important to make sure you place something under the milk crates to ensure your eggs won’t fall through the slats.

6. Storage Tote Nesting Boxes

I enjoy a video tutorial from time to time to help walk me through different processes. This video is great for showing you how to create these nesting boxes.

Plus, it shows how the boxes are meant to function. If you’re looking for an inexpensive and straightforward nesting box, you should check this idea out.

7. 5-Gallon Bucket Nesting Boxes

If you’re a painter or someone who does drywall, you might come in contact with leftover buckets. Don’t let the buckets add to the clutter in landfills.

Instead, use them to give your chickens nesting boxes. It’s simple to create and very inexpensive too.

8. Building Your Nesting Boxes for Next to Nothing

Do you want traditional style nesting boxes, but you’re working on a tight budget? You should consider building over buying.

You don’t have to come up with your own plans, though. This tutorial walks you through how to build your own DIY nesting boxes for hardly any money at all.

9. DIY Bookshelf Nesting Box

Do you have an old bookshelf hanging around and aren’t sure what to do with it? If you need nesting boxes, your bookshelf found a purpose.

These nesting boxes are easy to create, are a great way to repurpose an old piece of furniture, and they look nice too.

10. Diamond Shape Nesting Boxes

Everyone may not be able to understand this post because it’s written in a different language, but don’t let this deter you from checking out this idea. Even if you can’t understand the article, the idea is simple enough so you can create it regardless.

You use milk crates and hang them at an angle where they look like diamonds. You place the crates together to form a larger diamond. They hang on the coop wall and appear to be both functional and appealing to the eye.

11. Linn Acres Farm Nesting Box Plans

These plans are phenomenal. They’re for nesting boxes which hang on the walls of the coop. The boxes take up less room than some designs which place the boxes on the floor as a standalone unit.

However, these nesting boxes come with easy to read instructions. The plans are done on a computer which makes them easy to print off, read, and follow to give you the greatest opportunity for a successful build.

12. The Dresser Nesting Box

This is a unique way to use a piece of furniture which is no longer in use. You pull out some of the drawers of an old dresser and paint the dresser any color you like.

From there, you turn two of the drawers into the nesting boxes. You’ll need to fill them full of straw and consider adding a divider or two to get more boxes.

13. External Nesting Boxes

I’ll be the first to admit; external nesting boxes are nice to have. You don’t have to go inside the coop to get an egg.

Be aware you’ll want the lids to be on lock down because if not, a raccoon or snake can easily find their way into your boxes and take your eggs.

14. Wooden Barrel Nesting Box

Wine barrels can be rather expensive, but if you have one on hand which you aren’t using, consider putting it to use in your hen house.

Turn the barrel on its side and fill it with straw. From there, the chickens crawl right inside and lay their delicious eggs in a fashionable nesting box.

15. Large Plastic Bowls

You can sometimes find large plastic bowls on sale at your local big box store towards the end of summer. If you hit a deal, buy a few.

Next, fill them with straw or shavings and place them in your hen house. It’s an inexpensive way to give your hens the perfect location to lay eggs.

16. Covered Litterbox Nesting Boxes

Do you have an old litterbox your cats no longer use? Clean it out thoroughly and place it in your chicken coop.

It doesn’t matter if the litterbox is covered. Hens like the privacy while they’re laying their eggs. It will provide the perfect location for your chickens to lay.

17. DIY Plywood Nesting Box

If you’re someone who prefers to build using plans, you should check this idea out. The plans are simple to follow.

Also, they’re very well drawn out. The nesting boxes are built using plywood which makes them inexpensive too.

18. Tumbleweeds-and-Thyme Nesting Box Plans

This is another design of nesting boxes which are built to hang on a wall. If you would like to give your chickens as much space as possible in their coop, hanging their nesting boxes on the wall is the way to go.

The particular design at hand is a great way to give ample laying space without taking up large amounts of floor space. It looks nice and appears to be simple to build.

19. Dishpan Nesting Boxes

Who knew dishpans could make such amazing nesting boxes? You can place a single dishpan, which has been braced to the wall, for your hens to lay in.

Or you can do like this design, and place two dish pans on top of each other. This gives your hens more privacy as they lay.

20. Hanging Dresser Nesting Boxes

I’ve shared how you could take an old dresser and turn it into a nesting box for multiple hens. However, this idea takes things one step further.

Instead of placing the dresser on the floor, they hang it on the wall and give the hens a ladder to climb when they wish to lay. This takes up no floor space and still functions well.

21. Tractor Tire Nesting Boxes

If you have old tractor tires don’t let them hang around your property going to waste. Instead, put them to functional use.

You’ll cut the tires in half and let your chickens get inside them to lay their eggs. It’s inexpensive and functional too.

Well, you now have over 20 different options for nesting box ideas and design plans. Hopefully, you’ll find something to inspire you.

But I’d love to hear from you. What do you make your nesting boxes from? Do you have a preference for external and internal coop nesting boxes? Would you share your designs with our community?

We’d love to hear from you. Leave us your comments in the space provided below.

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Garten Gestalten

Anbau von Gurken: Ihr Leitfaden zum Pflanzen, Wachsen und Ernten von Gurken

Are you a fan of pickles? One of my boys’ favorite snacks is gherkin pickles, while I love cucumbers dipped in homemade ranch dressing.

If you love any of these snack options, you should grow cucumbers. They’re easy to grow, and you only need a few plants to have an abundance of cucumbers.

I’m going to share with you how to grow cucumbers, care for them, harvest, and store them too. Whether you’re operating a traditional” garden> or a container” garden>, this vegetable could be a great fit for you.

Here’s what you should know about growing cucumbers:

Quick Gardening Facts for Cucumbers

  • Hardiness Zones: 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 (find” yours>)
  • Soil: Loamy, PH between 6.0 to 7.0, well-drained
  • Sun Exposure: Full sun, at least 5 hours of sun per day
  • Planting:
    • Start Indoors: 1-2 weeks before last frost date
    • Hardening Off: 7 to 10 days before transplanting
    • Transplant Outdoors: 2 weeks after last frost date or 3 weeks after indoor seed starting
  • Spacing: 6 to 10 inches between plants and 2 to 4 feet between rows
  • Depth: ¾ to 1 inch seed depth
  • Best Companions: Bush beans, cabbage,” dill cauliflower radish>
  • Worst Companions: Potato,” sage melon>
  • Watering: Deeply once a week providing at least 1 inch of water, avoid overhead watering
  • Fertilizing: Apply balanced fertilizer and compost manure before planting
  • Common Problems: Thrips, aphids, stink bugs, cutworms, flea beetles, cucumber beetles, cabbage looper, scab, pythium fruit rot, phytophthora blight, cucumber mosaic, squash mosaic, aster yellows, bacterial wilt, bacterial leaf spot, angular leaf spot, verticillium wilt, target leaf spot, septoria leaf spot, fusarium wilt, powdery mildew, cercospora leaf spot, downy mildew, belly rot, anthracnose, alternaria leaf spot
  • Harvest: After 50 to 70 frost free days, 3 to 4 inches for pickling types and 6 to 8 inches for slicers

Cucumbers Varieties to Plant

The varieties for cucumbers seem almost endless. I’m going to share with you some of the more popular types and their uses. It should put you on the right track for picking the best variety of cucumber for your garden.

1. Carolina

Carolina cucumbers reach maturity in 51 days. They’re an excellent choice for pickling and are well known for being uniform in shape.

2. Armenian

The Armenian variety is different from traditional style cucumbers. They take 50-75 days to reach maturity. You don’t have to peel this variety or seed them either. Which makes this an excellent choice for snacking, or as an addition to your salads.

3. Suyo Long

This variety of cucumber takes 60 days to reach maturity for production. It has a sweet flavor and is a burpless variety. The cucumbers grow to be approximately 16 inches in length.

Suyo Long is an heirloom” variety> which loves hot weather and is a good choice for your salad or to make pickles.

4. Calypso

Calypso is one of my favorite types of cucumbers to plant. They take only 52 days to reach maturity, but they produce a smaller cucumber.

Because I grow cucumbers for pickling purposes, this is a great option. If you prefer a smaller cucumber and need a variety to produce faster, this could be the right choice for your garden.

5. Spacemaster 80

Spacemaster 80 is another valuable option for a smaller cucumber variety. They take 60 days to produce and are perfect for smaller gardens. The vine reaches three feet and produces eight-inch cucumbers.

6. English Telegraph

The English Telegraph variety takes only 60 days to produce. This variety is an excellent choice for snacking because the cucumbers are long, but they have a thin skin which helps to avoid the need for peeling.

7. Lemon

This is a neat variety of cucumber. At first glance, this cucumber looks like a lemon since it grows in a rounded shape and has yellow skin.

However, it only takes 65 days to produce and is an excellent option for making” pickles> or as a gorgeous addition to your salads.

8. Marketmore 86

This cucumber variety takes 55-58 days to reach maturity. It’s a great option for snacking, adding to a salad mixture, or pickling.

The cucumbers are more petite, and the plant bushes more than it vines, which makes it a wonderful addition to a small garden.

9. Parisian Gherkin

Parisian Gherkin cucumbers are great for pickling. They take only 50-60 days to reach maturity and produce cucumbers with a naturally sweet flavor. Also a nice option for salads and as an addition to your slaw recipe.

10. Dasher II

Dasher is a disease resistant variety which is helpful for the new gardener. They take only 55 days to reach maturity and produce cucumbers which are 8 ½ inches long. This variety can be used for snacking or slicing.

11. Muncher

The Muncher variety will produce between 58-62 days. These cucumbers are a more extended variety which is also burpless. Because of their sweet flavor, it makes them an option for both snacking and pickling.

12. Homemade Pickles

The name of this variety gives away their purpose. Homemade Pickles variety are one of the best options for pickling, because of the smaller size of the cucumbers. They reach maturity in 55-60 days and are also disease resistant.

13. Persian

The Persian variety takes 50 days to reach maturity. They have a sweet flavor and a crunchy texture, which is a pleasant combination. They are also a good choice for different planting” zones> because they can handle a variety of different temperatures and still produce well.

14. Straight Eight

When you picture cucumbers, you probably envision this variety. Straight eight is another heirloom variety which takes only 60 days to produce. The cucumbers grow to be approximately eight inches long – an excellent choice for pickling and snacking.

How to Plant Cucumbers

Cucumbers are one of the easiest plants you can grow in your garden. They require minimal effort on your part. Follow these few steps, and you should have delicious cucumbers growing in no time:

1. Pick the Right Spot

The right” location> to grow cucumbers in your garden is a location with full sun. Be sure the soil is nutrient-rich and well-draining.

If there’s an area in your garden which gets soggy, this isn’t where your cucumbers should be. When you find the location with ample sunlight and great soil conditions, this is where your cucumbers should go.

2. Amend the Soil

Next, you should amend” the soil> in the planting location. It’s a good idea to add aged” manure> or compost” into this area.>

Work it into the soil approximately eight inches deep, ensuring the cucumbers will have the necessary nutrients they desire when planted.

Also, check” the soil ph level> at this point. Cucumbers prefer soil with a pH level of 7.0.

3. Know Your Planting Zone

The biggest threat to cucumbers is frost. It’s important to know your planting” zone> and frost” dates.>

When you know when the final frost should be for your area, wait a couple of weeks after this time to ensure there are no sudden cold snaps.

The soil should be 60 degrees Fahrenheit or above when sowing seeds. If you live in a cooler climate and are afraid you won’t have a large enough window to grow cucumbers, consider adding black plastic over the soil to help generate heat underneath it more quickly.

4. Plant at the Right Time

Since you know what temperatures you’re looking for and proper dates for planting, it’s time to plant the seeds.

If you’ve realized you don’t have a two to a three-month growing period to produce cucumbers, consider starting” them indoors>.

This isn’t ideal as cucumbers don’t like to have their roots disturbed. However, if this is your only option to grow them, you do what needs to be done.

When starting them indoors, be sure to do this a month before planting. Also, be sure to harden the plants off a week or two in advance as well.

As the soil temperatures become ideal for sowing seeds, plant two to three seeds in one area. You can create a hill (or small mound) of dirt to plant the seeds in, or you can dig a shallow hole in the garden to place the seeds in.

Either way, the seeds need to be placed one inch in the soil. You’ll plant each set of seeds three feet apart.

You can space them closer if you have a bush variety. If you have a longer vine variety, you may need to put additional space between plants.

The plants should begin to sprout within a week. You can train the vine varieties to climb” a trellis> to keep the fruit off the ground.

Be sure to mulch” around the plants to pests and diseases> from infiltrating your plants.

5. A Few Tips for Container Cucumbers

Cucumbers are a great addition to a container” garden> as well. Be sure to choose either a bush variety or a variety with shorter vines.

When planting, you’ll follow the same procedure. You need a large” pot> to plant in. A 12×8 or larger is ideal.

Fill the container with quality” soil> and compost. Plant two to three seeds per container, and as long as you wait to plant when the weather is warm enough, you should have quality cucumbers in no time.

How to Care for Cucumbers

Cucumbers require little care for excellent production. Here are the few things cucumbers need from you:

1. Water

Cucumbers require a great” deal of water>. The ideal amount of water is one inch per week. It’s a good idea to keep a rain gauge near your garden to keep up with how much water they receive naturally.

From there, you can supplement as needed. The more water you give your cucumbers, the better flavor they’ll have.

Another rule of thumb is when you stick your finger in the soil; if the soil is dry one inch or deep into the soil, you should apply water.

Be sure when” watering> to keep the foliage dry or to water early enough in the day the sun will dry the leaves before nightfall.

This will help to deter diseases or mildew and harm them. Also, consider mulching around each plant to help retain moisture this way as well.

2. Fertilize

If you added enough compost” and manure> to the soil before planting, your cucumbers might not need much fertilizing.

You could add more aged manure and compost once a month to the base of the plant to give additional nutrients.

However, if you prefer to use store-bought” fertilizers>, consider using one which is low in nitrogen but high in phosphorous and potassium.

You’ll only apply store-bought fertilizers to the base of the plant and just after the cucumber plants have bloomed. Add more every three weeks after the initial fertilizing.

Be aware of when you fertilize because if you overfeed, your plants won’t produce as they should.

3. Thin Out

When you planted the cucumbers, you should’ve planted two to three seeds per hill. This is to ensure one of the three germinates.

But what if all three seeds germinated? You now have plants too close together. When the cucumber plants reach four inches in height, it’s time to thin them out.

You should thin them to where you have two feet between each plant.

Problems with Cucumbers

Cucumbers have a few diseases and pests which could cause problems for your harvest. Here’s what you need to keep an eye out for:

1. Aphids

Aphids are tiny bugs which can be found attaching themselves to your plants. If you see them on your cucumbers, try giving them a spritz of cold water with your water hose.

However, if they remain attached, try hosing them down with soapy water. This should cause them to detach themselves from your plants.

2. Cucumber Beetles

Cucumber beetles will cause a great deal of damage to your seedlings. They’re also known for causing wilt.

The best option to deter them is to place row covers over your plants. Be sure to remove the row covers when your cucumbers bloom to leave room for pollinators.

3. Powdery Mildew

via rootsimple.com

Powdery mildew is a mildew film which covers your plants. It occurs when the foliage of your plants become too wet.

The best way to deter powdery mildew is to water your cucumbers in enough time for the leaves to dry. You can also use a fungicide to rid your plants of this disease or rub the leaves together to brush the mildew off.

4. Spider Mites

via planetnatural.com

Spider mites will live on the leaves of your cucumber plants and drink the fluids from within the plant. You can rid your plants of these bugs with pesticides,” keeping a garden>, and by introducing beneficial” insects>.

5. Scab

via mtvernon.wsu.edu

Scab is a disease which most varieties of cucumbers are immune to today. If you run across it, you’ll notice your plants and fruits have dark scabs on them which lead to rot.

The best way to stay away from this disease is to practice” crop rotation> and leave ample space between cucumber plants to keep the leaves dry.

Best and Worst Companion Plants

There are certain plants cucumbers grow particularly well around. Those plants are:

There are plants which should be avoided around cucumbers as well. Those plants are:

How to Harvest and Store Cucumbers

Cucumbers are simple to harvest. You should pick them when they’re young. If you wait until they’ve been sitting on the vine for a few days at maturity, they become larger.

With the increase in size, their flavor becomes bitter, the seeds become larger, and they begin to turn yellow.

It’s a good idea to check your cucumber vines daily because it’s easy to overlook them when picking since the fruit and plant are the same color.

The smaller varieties should be picked when they’re approximately six inches long, and larger varieties should be picked when they’re around eight inches long.

When it’s time to pick your cucumbers, use pruning shears or a sharp knife to cut them from the vine. This should help deter any damage to the plant.

Finally, you should wrap your cucumber harvest tightly in plastic wrap. This will help to maintain the moisture within the cucumber. They should last a week in your refrigerator.

If you have an abundance of cucumbers, consider making pickles” and them.>


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34 Nützliche Epsom Salt-Anwendungen, die Sie noch nie zuvor gekannt haben

Do you enjoy a nice long soak in your bathtub? What about finding relief from a painful headache?

What if I told you there is one item that could bring you both relaxation and relief from a headache? Plus the same item can be used for cleaning and to boost your garden.

This frequently overlooked item is tucked away on most store shelves – and you might have guessed it – it is Epsom salts. It is inexpensive and extremely handy. I’m going to share with you many unique uses for Epsom salts.

Hopefully, you’ll find them as useful as I do. Here’s what you can do with Epsom salts:

1. Add Oomph to Your Hair

I enjoy a little extra volume to my hair. If you struggle with flat or fine hair, you’ll have an appreciation for Epsom salts.

Mix ½ Epsom salt and ½ conditioner in a bottle. This mixture will remove any excess oil from your hair which could potentially weigh it down. You should notice a nice boost of volume to your hair after use.

2. Relieves Pain from Sunburns

Sunburns” can be extremely painful. they no fun and you probably like the pain to leave as quickly possible.>

Well, you’re in luck. Epsom salts have an anti-inflammatory property. If you mix two tablespoons of Epsom salts with one cup of water and spray it on your sunburn, it should provide relief.

3.  Moisturizes Lips

Are your lips continually feeling dry? Are you tired of purchasing lip moisturizers which cost a great deal of money but don’t work in the long run?

Give Epsom salts a try. Mix three tablespoons of Epsom salts with one teaspoon of Vaseline. It should remove the dead and dry skin from your lips.

4. Itchy Bug Bites

When summertime rolls around, the bugs come with it. Bug bites leave us feeling itchy and uncomfortable.

Don’t live with it. Instead, mix two tablespoons of Epsom salts with one cup of water. Dip a cotton ball in the mixture and apply to your bug bites.

5. Soothes Sore Muscles

Achy muscles occur when you do labor-intensive work, have a good workout at the gym, or if you do something you haven’t done in a while and your body isn’t used to it.

The next time you have sore muscles, soak in a warm bath with Epsom salts. You can also make a paste of one cup of warm water and one teaspoon of Epsom salts. Apply the paste to the sore muscles.

6. Foot Soak

I enjoy soaking my feet when I’ve been on them all day. I also enjoy having dry skin exfoliated from my feet while they soak.

All you need to do is soak your feet in soapy, warm water with ½ cup of Epsom salt. It soothes achy feet and exfoliates dry skin simultaneously.

7. Soothes Bee Stings

Bee stings hurt. There’s no way around it. They also swell and itch after the initial sting. The next time you have a bee sting, turn to Epsom salts.

Mix one tablespoon of Epsom salt with one cup of cold water. Place a cloth in the mixture and apply it to the sting as a cold compress. It should help soothe the pain and reduce swelling because of Epsom salt’s anti-inflammatory properties.

8. Add to Your Bath Water

Soaking in a nice bath is a great way to relax. Add Epsom salt to your bath to keep your skin healthy and exfoliated.

Two cups of Epsom salts to the bath water should be enough, and you need to soak for 15 minutes or more. Do this three times per week for best results. Candles help too.

9. Clean Pores

Do you struggle with blackheads? Who knew they could be cleared up by applying Epsom salts? If you have a favorite facial cream, add Epsom salts to it.

From there, rub the facial cream on your face. Rinse your face with cold water and pat dry. Your face will stay clean and help you get rid of any embarrassing blackheads.

10. DIY Bath Salts

Bath salts are a great addition to a nice bath. They can be expensive when you go to purchase them, though. Therefore, you should make your own.

They can be made by adding two cups of Epsom salts to a container. From there, add food coloring and a splash of vanilla for added scent.

11. Splinter Relief

Splinters are a part of life but can be painful. The next time you get one, reach for Epsom salts for relief.

Remove the splinter, create a compress with cold water and Epsom salts, and finally apply it to the sore area to reduce pain and swelling.

12. Exfoliation Post-Shower

I’m all about having healthy skin, but it takes work. The next time you feel like your skin needs some extra attention, use this method.

When you step out of the shower, don’t reach for the towel. Instead, reach for the Epsom salts. Rub your skin with handfuls of Epsom salts until you feel you’re thoroughly exfoliated, ridding your body of any dry skin.

13. Soothes Stubborn Skin

We all have areas with dry skin which seems it won’t go away. I used to struggle with this on my elbows and heels.

However, I learned if you place two cups of Epsom salts in Vaseline and rub it on those tough areas, it exfoliates the skin. Be sure not to use this on skin which is irritated or opened.

14. Soothes Poison Ivy Rash

Poison ivy rash is painful, but you don’t have to live with the discomfort. Instead, make a compress with Epsom salts.

Mix two tablespoons of Epsom salts with a cup of water. Soak a washcloth in the mixture to create a compress and apply it to the poison ivy rash to reduce itching and swelling.

15. Cold Water Plunge

It makes me shriek thinking how athletes soak in an ice bath after they’ve worked out. They do this to help with sore muscles.

If you also do this, try adding Epsom salt to your ice bath. It adds additional anti-inflammatory properties to aid in healing sore muscles.

16. Doctor Your Feet

Do you struggle with foot odor or foot fungus? Do you work in a job where you’re on your feet all of the time and come home with sore feet?

Well, you need to soak them in Epsom salt and warm water for 20 minutes. It will help soothe sore feet, kill foot or toe fungus, and eliminate foot odors too.

17. Use in the Garden

Everyone who gardens want to have a beautiful lush garden which produces like crazy. Epsom salts can help you with this.

If you apply one tablespoon of Epsom salt to the base of each plant, it gives the plant a boost of magnesium. The plants will grow better and produce more. Tomatoes do especially well with this. Epsom salt also helps them to produce sweeter tomatoes as well.

18. Cleans Tiles and Grout

Do you struggle to get your tiles and grout clean? You won’t have to struggle anymore. Mix equal parts dish soap and Epsom salt together.

Apply the mixture to your tiles and grout. Use some elbow grease to scrub them with a brush to remove any dirt and stains.

19. Constipation Relief

If you’ve ever been constipated, you know how uncomfortable it can be. You don’t have to reach for expensive medications to soothe your ailment.

Instead, reach for Epsom salt. Because they’re high in magnesium, it helps get your bowels moving. Be sure to follow the instructions on the package.

20. Give Houseplants a Boost

As much as you’d like to grow a lush garden, we all want our houseplants to be gorgeous too. If your houseplants look droopy, or you want them to look better, give Epsom salts a try.

Apply a small amount of Epsom salts to the soil around your houseplant. You can also add Epsom salts to your water. Giving your houseplants approximately one tablespoon per month should be adequate. You should notice the plants growing fuller after application.

21. Sprinkle in the Garden

Part of growing a garden is dealing with the pests which want to dine in your garden as well. Epsom salts can help with deterring garden pests.

Sprinkle Epsom salt throughout your garden and around your plants. Slugs will dry up when crawling over them and other garden pests will be sliced by crawling over the salts.

22. Give Your Roses a Boost

Roses love magnesium. It helps them to bloom and grow extraordinarily. If you have rose bushes, you need Epsom salts.

Apply the Epsom salts around the base of the plants. You should use approximately one tablespoon per month. The number of blooms will increase and it will help the overall growth of the plant.

23. Great Cure for a Hangover (And Other Headaches)

Whether you have a headache because of the way you slept, the weather, or because you drank too much, Epsom salts can help.

You can consume the Epsom salts or soak in them in a warm bath. The increase in magnesium to your system should help soothe and reduce a headache.

24. Mix in the Soil

Before planting a garden, it’s essential to adequately prepare” the soil>. The soil will feed your plants. It’s important that the soil has the nutrients they need.

By adding Epsom salt to your soil, it gives it a magnesium boost. Magnesium is great for increasing the quality of your soil and ultimately your plants.

25. Great for Your Heart Health

Epsom salt is suitable for many different things, but did you know it can help the health of your heart as well?

Because of Epsom salt’s anti-inflammatory properties, it improves circulation and helps your arteries to stay flexible. Soak in a bath with Epsom salt three to four times per week to enjoy these benefits.

26. Regulates Blood Sugar

Regulating your blood sugar can be tricky. Anything you can add to your diet or routine which will help could be a great idea.

Epsom salts can help with regulating healthy blood sugar levels. You can soak in it or consume it, but the magnesium helps the body to both make and use insulin. This lowers your risk of diabetes and increases your energy too.

27. Cleans Dishes

We all have specific recipes we love, we continue to make, but we know the dishes are going to be a nightmare when it’s over.

Well, the next time you have caked-on grease, put Epsom salts in the dish. Their abrasiveness helps to remove the dirt from the dishes with less effort required.

28. Hand Wash

Are you looking for a DIY option for hand soap? Look no further than Epsom salts for this solution. It’s easy to make and practical too.

Place equal parts Epsom salts and baby oil in a handpump container. This mixture will clean your hands while exfoliating them as well.

29. Rids Raccoons

Raccoons can wreak havoc on your home. Whether they try to eat your small poultry, or they dig through your trash. It can be frustrating.

The next time a raccoon hangs around your property, place Epsom salts around the area they’re targeting. Raccoons don’t like the smell of Epsom salts, and this deters them from returning. Be sure to reapply after a heavy rain.

30.  Perks Up Your Lawn

Does your lawn need a boost? Add two tablespoons of Epsom salts to one gallon of water. This will add both magnesium and iron to your soil.

The added ingredients will give your lawn the minerals it desires, leading to a fuller and lusher looking lawn.

31. Reduces Bruising

I hate when I get a big nasty looking bruise. No matter how cute of an outfit you wear, people don’t notice the outfit for the bruise.

Well, you can diminish the appearance of bruising by creating a cold compress containing water and Epsom salts. Apply it to the bruise, and it should help the discoloration to fade.

32. Ditch Frizzy Hair

The same conditioner idea I had mentioned above (1/2 conditioner, ½ Epsom salt) will help to reduce frizz to your hair.

If you live in a humid area, your hair will quickly turn into a giant ball of poof. This conditioner mixture can help contain some of the frizz caused by humidity.

33. Say Bye-Bye to Fertilizer

Fertilizing your garden and other plants is necessary. It can also become expensive if you purchase store-bought fertilizers.

One popular ingredient in fertilizers is magnesium. You can sprinkle Epsom salts on your garden in the place of fertilizers as a way to boost magnesium when needed.

34. Stop Plant Shock

When you transplant a plant, it’s common to be concerned if the plant will make it initially. The reason being, the plant will go into shock in some instances.

Epsom salts can help plants avoid going into shock. Add a sprinkle of Epsom salts into the hole where it’s being transplanted or into the soil. It can help the plant make it through the transition with ease.

Well, you now have over 30 different uses for Epsom salts. They can be helpful in the garden, in your home, for your health, and for your beauty regiment as well.

Hopefully, this will be an inexpensive way for you to care for many areas of your life and to feel better all the way around.

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Garten Gestalten

4 einfache Methoden, um gesunden Löwenzahntee zuzubereiten und 13 Rezepte zum Ausprobieren

If you buy an item via links on this page, we may earn a commission. Our editorial content is not influenced by commissions. Read the full disclosure.

Did you know dandelions are more than a weed in your yard? It has health benefits to you and can be used to make jelly” and for your enjoyment.>

You can also eat” dandelions>. There are many great purposes for this treasure hiding in plain sight.

However, I must warn you. Dandelions pack serious benefits which if mixed with the wrong medical condition could be potentially dangerous. Please consult your doctor before trying anything dandelion related. We’re not medical professionals.

With this being understood, let’s move and explore how you can use each part of the dandelion to make dandelion tea:

You will need:

  • Correct part of dandelions
  • Saucepan
  • Strainer
  • Water
  • Measuring Utensil

If choosing to make dandelion tea from fresh dandelions, only select dandelions you know haven’t been exposed to pesticides. When in doubt, don’t use the dandelions.

How to Make Dandelion Tea from the Flowers

You’ll begin by boiling water in a saucepan. Only boil enough water to fill your teacup.

While the water is boiling, pick ten heads (flowers) from dandelions per cup of tea you’re preparing. Remove the green section underneath the flower.

You will be left with the yellow petals. Place these petals in a tea ball and put inside your teacup. Add the boiling water to the cup and allow the petals to steep inside the cup for 20 minutes.

When the steeping process is finished, add your desired sweetener to the tea and enjoy.

How to Make Dandelion Tea from the Leaves

Some people prefer to deep fry the flowers and use the leaves for their tea. Be sure to use leaves which are younger and still delicate.

When you’ve picked your dandelions and separated the leaves from the rest of the dandelion, wash and dry them.

At the same time, begin boiling your water in the saucepan. You need only enough water to fill your teacup.

You’ll need approximately six leaves per cup of dandelion tea you’re preparing. When the leaves are dry, chop them finely.

Place the dandelion leaves in the teacup and cover with boiling water. Allow the leaves to steep for ten minutes.

When the leaves have finished steeping, you can either leave them in your tea or strain them out. Add your desired sweetener, and you’re ready to enjoy dandelion tea.

How to Make Dandelion Tea from Fresh Root

Dandelion root is becoming all the rage these days because of the health benefits it offers.

Not to mention, most of us have dandelions growing in our yard which makes dandelion root not only healthy but free.

When deciding to use dandelion root found in your yard, you’ll begin by digging up the entire dandelion plant. You’ll need to use your garden tools to ensure you get it all because you’re looking for the taproot.

After the plant has been dug up, separate the taproot from the rest of the plant. Be sure to rinse the root in cold water thoroughly.

While the tap root is drying, begin boiling one quart of water in your saucepan. Pat the taproot dry and chop the root into chunks.

You’ll need two teaspoons of dandelion tap root per quart of water. When you’ve measured the right amount, add the chopped root to the pot of boiling water.

When the root has been added, cover the pot, and reduce the heat. This should decrease the water from a rolling boil and give the root time to steep.

Allow the steeping process to take place on the burner for approximately one minute.

When the minute has passed, remove the pot from the stove and allow the dandelion root to continue steeping for another 40 minutes.

After the 40 minutes is up, strain the root from the water and discard it. Pour the remaining liquid into your cup and add your desired sweetener.

How to Make Dandelion Tea from Dried Root

Some enjoy dandelion tea and the benefits they receive from drinking it. However, they don’t have the time to dig dandelions from their yard.

Not to mention, dandelions don’t grow year-round in most places, making it difficult to enjoy this tea all year.

That was until people discovered how to dry their dandelion roots, or they began purchasing it.

If you’re using dried dandelion root, here’s how you make tea from it:

Begin by boiling one quart of water. While the water is boiling, chop the dried dandelion root into chunks.

Measure two teaspoons of the chopped dandelion root. You’ll need two teaspoons per quart of water.

Add the chopped dried dandelion root to the water and allow it to continue boiling in the water for ten minutes.

When the boiling process is finished, strain the root from the liquid, and discard it. Pour the liquid into your teacup and add the desired sweetener to your tea for your enjoyment.

Other Recipes for Dandelion Tea

What I’ve given you above is basic recipes for using each part of the dandelion to create a tea. However, other interesting methods have given dandelion tea a little twist. Here are a few more dandelion tea recipes:

1. Coffee Free Mocha

Do you enjoy your mocha coffee but are trying to lead a healthier lifestyle? You’ll love this recipe. It includes dandelion tea and chocolate.

What a healthy and delicious combination. The next time you’re craving an unhealthy chocolate drink, reach for this recipe.

2. Butterscotch Detox Tea

This butterscotch drink is detox tea with butter, coconut oil, and vanilla. If you’re familiar with bulletproof coffee, this is a similar idea only using dandelion tea in the place of coffee.

What I love about this recipe is you don’t have to rush to the store to buy coffee. Instead, pick the dandelions from the front yard and use your pantry staples to create a great beverage.

3. Iced Lime Dandelion Tea

Are you someone who prefers iced tea to hot tea? You haven’t been left out of this equation. This recipe not only gives you dandelion iced tea, but they add lime juice for a boost in flavor too.

It might be a good option, to begin with, if you’re concerned about the flavor of the dandelion tea. The lime juice might make it more palatable.

4. Dandelion Tea Latte

Lattes sound great, don’t they? But they don’t line up with a healthy lifestyle in most cases. However, this recipe creates a delicious latte out of dandelion tea.

Dandelion tea is said to be an excellent substitute for most coffee drinks. Give this drink a try and see what your opinion of it is.

5. Dandelion Spice Tea

This dandelion tea recipe is similar to what has been shared in the above tutorial. Only, they add a little kick to it with the added ingredients of cinnamon and clover.

If you’re a person who loves spice and is slightly concerned about the flavors of dandelions, give this recipe a try. You might fancy it.

6. Three Recipes in One

This graphic gives you three recipes in one. There’s a recipe for dandelion flower tea, dandelion root tea, and dandelion lime tea.

They’re all different from anything previously presented because the recipes add different spices for added flavor. Give it a go and see which is your favorite.

7. Maca Dandelion Latte

Maca root is another great root with a lot of health benefits. This recipe combines it with dandelion root in one amazing drink.

The recipe also calls for pure coconut oil for added flavor and more nutrients. What a delicious way to get your daily vitamins and nutrients.

8. Dandelion Detox Tea

This recipe for dandelion tea is meant to have added detox benefits. They add gelatin or collagen to the recipe along with coconut milk.

It’s a healthy yet tasty way to rid your body of toxins. If you’re concerned about toxins building up in your body, give it a try.

9. Homemade Citrus Spiced Dandelion Bitters

When making dandelion root tea from a fresh source, it’s common to have some dandelions left over. Instead of wasting them, follow this recipe to create tasty dandelion bitters which are great for helping your digestive system.

Dandelion bitters are helpful to keep on hand when you know you’ll be eating larger meals. It helps to keep you from becoming uncomfortably full.

10. Dandelion Tea with Herbs

This recipe walks you through the process of foraging for dandelions and share with you a delicious way to make dandelion tea. It includes other fresh herbs such as peppermint, rose hips, nettle leaf, and more.

If you’re looking for a way to incorporate more herbs from your garden into your daily lifestyle, this could be a great way to accomplish this.

11. The Longer Method for Dandelion Tea

This method for creating dandelion tea takes longer but will certainly give you the dandelion flavor. You allow the dandelions to steep in water overnight, though it may be necessary to dilute the tea more in the morning because of how strong the flavor can get.

If you enjoy the flavor of dandelions and would like more of it, this method could be precisely what you’ve been looking for.

12. Dandelion Weight Loss Tea

This graphic is another option for creating dandelion tea. The goal of this particular recipe is to help you lose weight.

The recipe calls for dandelion root, lemon juice, and cranberry juice. All of these are wonderful diuretics and should help you shed water weight quickly.

13. Dandelion Coffee

This dandelion root coffee is an iced-coffee version. It consists of dandelion root tea, coconut milk, and vanilla extract.

It’s difficult to give up the sweet beverages we enjoy when embracing healthier food choices. Dandelion iced coffee is a delicious way to get extra nutrients while feeling like you’re indulging.

Well, you now know how to make dandelion tea from each part of the dandelion. You also know how to make dandelion tea from store-bought or dried parts of the dandelion as well.

Plus, we’ve given you 13 different recipes if you’d like to expand the flavor profile of this tea as well. Remember to speak with your doctor before trying any new recipes, but when you’re cleared, we hope you enjoy this as a new favorite beverage.

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Garten Gestalten

38 Mehrjähriges Gemüse und Obst, das einmal angebaut und Jahr für Jahr geerntet wird

Would you like to plant your fruit and vegetable garden once, and then not have to plant anything in it again for a decade? That is, in fact, achievable, if you only plant perennial vegetables and fruits in your garden.

But first, you need to know which plants are perennials.

Today we’re going to walk you through a variety of fruits and vegetables which are considered perennials.” keep in mind some perennials may have to be planted as annuals depending on which zone> you live in.

Here are the perennial fruits and vegetables you should fill your garden with:

1. Asparagus

When someone tries to create a list of perennial vegetables asparagus always comes first because they’re popular and start with the letter A.

Funny story, when I first began” gardening> I didn’t realize asparagus was a perennial. I only started growing it when I learned that perennials could save me a great deal of work over the years.

Anyway, if you’re looking for a delicious vegetable which will return year after year, asparagus is the way to go.

Asparagus can be grown as perennials in zones 3-8.

2. Horseradish

Do you like vegetables that can clear your sinus? If so, horseradish will be right up your alley. Horseradish are commonly used to make a delicious sauce to spice up sandwiches or other meals.

Horseradish also has medicinal properties. It” is said> to cure urinary tract infections, gout, colic, nerve pain, painful joints, and many other health issues.

Horseradish can be grown as perennials in zones 4-7.

3. Watercress

Watercress is another perennial plant which can be used in a variety of ways. Mainly sandwiches and salads.

It also has medicinal properties as well. Watercress may” help> easing symptoms of the flu and cough if you’re struggling with a cold or other respiratory illness.

Watercress can be grown as perennials in zones 6-9.

4. Goji Berries

Goji berries are native to East Asia but became popular in the west because of its health benefits. They can be used to make wine, dried and eaten as a snack, cooked with, or eaten raw.

Goji berries can be grown as perennials in zones 3-10.

5. Gooseberries

Gooseberries tend to be sour, so they’re best enjoyed cooked down and mixed with sugar. From there, you can make a variety of jams and jellies. You can also make a delicious gooseberry pie with them.

Gooseberries can be grown as perennials in zones 3-8.

6. Egyptian Walking Onions

Story time. In my early gardening days, my husband met a woman through his job who was a seasoned gardener. She sent him home one day with Egyptian walking onions, which I had never heard of.

These onions are perennials. They grow upward until they fall over and plant a new seed next to them. Once you plant one, you’ll end up with a whole bunch of onions which are delicious and interesting to see grow.

Egyptian walking onions can be grown as perennials in zones 3-9.

7. Wild Leeks (Ramps)

Wild leeks which also known as ramps can” be foraged> or grown in your garden.

If you forage for them, be sure to look in highly wooded areas. They’ll only sprout for approximately a month during the spring. You can pick enough during this time (usually) to enjoy them raw or to pickle them for later use.

Wild leeks can be grown as perennials in zones 3-9.

8. Raspberries

We have a raspberry patch at our home, and I love it. Raspberries are easy to grow and will return with more vengeance with each passing year.

Fun fact, don’t plant raspberries near black walnut trees. We didn’t know this at first, and wondered why our raspberries suffered. After we cut the tree down, the raspberries thrived. Also, be sure to plant them where they will get plenty of sunlight.

Raspberries can be grown as perennials in zones 6-9.

9. Blueberries

We also have a blueberry patch at our home. It’s a wonderful addition to our raspberry patch, and they are tasty too.

Blueberries come in around the first of June and finish up early to mid-July. Like the raspberries, every year they come back stronger and stronger, which is a beautiful sight to see.

Blueberries can be grown as perennials in zones 3-7. Some varieties can only grow in zones 4-5.

10. Blackberries

We also have some blackberries on our properties. They come in a little later than the blueberries.

The best thing about blackberries is that they produce large berries and require very little work. We prune our berry bushes around late winter/early spring, and they produce wonderfully year after year.

Blackberries can be grown as perennials in zones 5-10.

11. Strawberries

Strawberries” are a delicious plant to grow as perennial around your home. the original will birth baby plants which return year after year.>

What makes strawberries an excellent addition to a perennial garden is they can be grown whereever they can sprawl out. You can grow them in containers” grown them in barrels with great success or you can grow beds>.

Strawberries can be grown as perennials in zones 5-8.

12. Grapes

The vineyard at our home is the best thing about our yard. We produce enough grapes to enjoy raw, can, make jelly from, and juice.

Like other berries, grapes” require but are relatively low maintenance. they come back bigger and better with each passing year.>

Grapes can be grown as perennials in zones 4-10.

13. Lemons

Lemon trees are only perennials in certain locations. If you live in an area where frost and freezing temperatures are common over winter, lemon trees won’t survive.

But you can still have them all year if you plant the tree in a container and willing to move it indoors or to the greenhouse” over the winter for protection.>

Lemons can be grown as true perennials in zones 9-11.

14. Lime

Like lemons, lime trees are also perennials in certain locations because they don’t stand up well to frost and freezing temperatures.

If you don’t live in a warmer climate, it’s a good idea to plant lime trees in a container to be able to move them to a sunnier location when needed.

Lime can be grown as perennials in zones 8-11.

15. Figs

We have some fig trees on our property in zone 7b, and so far they handle cooler temperatures well within reason, even though the recommended zone starts at 8.

In our planting” zone>, we have cold temperatures for irregular periods and snow on occasion. Be sure to check your planting zone to know if figs should be treated as a true perennial, an annual, or planted in a container to have growing success in your area.

Fig trees can be grown as perennials in zones 8-10.

16. Mulberries

Mulberries are awesome. Mulberries have many” benefits> such as supporting healthy blood sugar levels, supporting your immune system and providing antioxidants. You can eat them raw, dry them, or make a syrup for pancakes or ice cream.

Mulberries can be grown as perennials in zones 5-9.

17. Peaches

I adore our peach trees. They produce all the peaches we need for our enjoyment every year. I also have” enough to can> for later use throughout the year.

If you’re looking for a perennial sweet treat to grow in your yard, peaches could be the way to go.

Peach trees can be grown as perennials in zones 6-8.

18. Nectarines

Nectarines are similar to peaches. They both grow on trees and produce for many years.

The main difference is in the fruit. Where peaches have fuzzy outer layers, nectarines don’t. They have a smooth skin which is great for eating raw, or you can preserve your harvest for later use.

Nectarines can be grown as perennials in zones 6-8.

19. Mandarins

Like most citrus, mandarins have a difficult time holding up to frost and freeze. You should plant them in a container if you don’t live in a planting zone where they can overwinter. I’ve personally done this in the past and had decent success with citrus trees.

Mandarin oranges can be grown as perennials in zones 8-11.

20. Rhubarb

Rhubarb” is a personal favorite of mine to grow. it takes few years for begin producing but comes back larger and with each passing year.>

Be sure to plant it where it won’t be disturbed over winter. You will have to mulch the rhubarb to protect the roots during the cold, but it’s worth the effort. Rhubarb makes excellent pies.

Rhubarb can be grown as perennials in zones 3-8.

21. Kale

In most planting zones, kale is grown as an annual. You can plant in early spring for your first harvest and plant it again in late summer for your second harvest.

However, if you live in the right planting zone, kale is a biennial” or short-lived perennial. meaning it will come back every other year and need to be replanted after second of harvest.>

Kale can be grown as biennials or short-lived perennials in zones 8-10.

22. Globe Artichokes

Globe artichokes are a pretty perennial that taste delicious. The light green color and the round balls of artichoke make such a nice combination.

Artichokes are an excellent addition to your garden because you can use them in a variety of recipes or pair them with a spinach harvest and make a delicious dip.

Artichokes can be grown as perennials in zones 7-11.

23. Banana

Banana plants must be treated with care when grown in cooler planting zones or they won’t produce or last long.

For that reason, if you live in a colder area, it’s a good idea to place banana plants in a greenhouse” to meet their needs and enjoy fruit for years come.>

Some banana varieties can be grown as perennials in zones 5-10.

24. Currant

If you’re going to grow perennials in your garden, they might as well make the garden look good in the process. Currants are a gorgeous berry that’ll improve the look of your yard.

Currants are for more than looks, they taste delicious and can be used to make an incredible jam.

Currants can be grown as perennials in zones 3-8.

25. Serviceberries

Unlike most berries, serviceberries are produced on a tree. Though, it’s a smaller tree, which means you could treat it as either a dwarf fruit tree or a larger bush.

Just like other berries, serviceberries can also be used in bread, pies, jams, and so much more.

Serviceberries can be grown as perennials in zones 4-9.

26. Honeyberries

If you like honeysuckle, you’ll also love this plant because they are related to the honeysuckle plant. This plant produces berries with a great balance of both sweetness and a little sour. Honeyberries can be used in different desserts, jams, and even bread puddings.

Honeyberries can be grown as perennials in zones 2-9.

27. Plantain

They look like a banana, but if you’ve ever eaten one, you know they taste different. But they are still close relatives.

Like bananas, plantains need the right growing environment to be raised as a true perennial. Even if you grow them in a greenhouse, you’ll be glad to have them around as they make a fantastic alternative to potato chips.

Plantains can be grown as perennials in zones 9-11.

28. Radicchio

Radicchio looks a great deal like red cabbage, but one bite into it and you’ll soon realize that it’s not a red cabbage at all. They belong in the chicory family.

Radicchio can be grown as perennials in zones 6-8.

29. Lovage

Lovage is an early producer. Around the time dandelions” begin to bloom in your yard you should be on the lookout for lovage start sprouting.>

It’s loaded with vitamins C and B and can grow in both full sun and shade. Lovage is also versatile as it can be used as a salad green or in cooked dishes in the place of celery.

Lovage can be grown as perennials in zones 4-8.

30. Papayas

Papayas are produced on a tree and can be grown as a perennial in certain planting zones. When grown outside of their planting zone, you need to protect them from freezing temperatures during the winter months.

They’re known as a short-lived perennial. Meaning they won’t live as long as other perennials. The average lifespan of papaya trees can be anywhere from two to ten years.

Papaya trees can be grown as perennials in zones 4-9, or 9-11 if grown outdoors.

31. Jerusalem Artichokes

Jerusalem artichokes, also known as sunchokes, are root vegetables with a starchy flavor, similar to a potato.

Jerusalem artichokes must be treated with care in both growing and eating. They can become invasive when growing if not handled correctly. They can also cause severe stomach pains if you eat too many of them.

Jerusalem artichokes can be grown as perennials in zones 3-8.

32. Chinese Artichokes

Chinese artichokes are small, squiggly tubes that can be harvested over the winter. They’re a great choice if you’re looking to improve your garden’s winter productivity.

These artichokes can be used in a variety of ways. One of the most popular ways is to include them in a winter stir-fry.

Chinese Artichokes can be grown as perennials in zones 5-9.

33. Capers

Capers are grown naturally in a Mediterranean climate and can be grown as a perennial in certain planting zones.

It grows in bush form. The capers are picked from the bush and pickled in a salty brine. It’s a distinct flavor, but many people enjoy them.

Capers can be grown as perennials in zones 8-10.

34. Chayote

This vegetable is a close relative to the gourd. If you don’t consider gourds to be the most delicious plant on the planet, try chayote. They taste different, and many people love it.

Chayote is crammed full of vitamins such as vitamin B, C, iron, potassium, and many others. They are also low-calorie, flavorful, and a great addition to soups and casseroles.

Chayote can be grown as perennials in zones 8-11.

35. French Sorrel

Sorrel is considered an herb and belongs to the buckwheat family. I’ve personally grown this as a perennial and found it very delicious.

Even though it’s a herb, sorrel doesn’t have to be used as traditional herbs. I preferred to pick it and add it to a mixed green salad. Sorrel adds a nice peppery flavor. Here’s some more ways” to use sorrel>.

Sorrel can be grown as perennials in zones 5-11.

36. Garlic

Most people grow garlic as an annual, we plant it in the fall or early spring and harvest later in the year.

Well, you don’t really have to do this because garlic is actually a perennial. Plant garlic once and harvest only the largest heads each year. The rest will continue to produce more for years to come.

Garlic can be grown reliably as perennials in zones 3-9.

37. Muscadines

Muscadines are another wonderful perennial you should consider. We have a large area in our garden for muscadines, and we enjoy them year after year.

They’re great for eating raw, preserving, or making wine from. If you enjoy muscadines, consider growing your own.

Muscadines can be grown as perennials in zones 7-10.

38. Apples

Apples are a classic fruit with many different varieties. They grow on a tree and some survive well in various climates.

If you enjoy a sweet fruit to eat raw, something you can bake with, or even a homegrown juicing option, you should grow apples.

Hardy apple varieties can be grown as perennials in zones 3-5, while long-season varieties can be grown as perennials in zones 5-8.

39. Pears

Pears are another perennial fruit which grows on trees. Pear trees are gorgeous when in bloom and they tend to do well in different climates.

If you’d enjoy pears to eat raw or to cook with, add them to your garden. They make a gorgeous and tasty addition.

Pear trees can be grown as perennials in zones 4-8.

40. Cherries

Our final perennial fruit is cherries. Cherries are an excellent addition to any garden. The trees smell lovely and are gorgeous when blooming.

But the best part of cherry trees are the cherries. They taste wonderful, can be enjoyed raw, and make delicious desserts.

Cherry trees can be grown as perennials in zones 5-9.

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Garten Gestalten

9 effektive hausgemachte Insektensprays, um Ihren Sommer frei von Schädlingen zu machen

Bug repellent can be an absolute lifesaver, especially in the warmer months when the mosquitos have a field day. Whether you’re planning a holiday somewhere hot or merely hoping to spend your days outside exploring and in the garden, you’ll most definitely need to get your hands on a bottle or two.

There are multiple downsides to store-bought bug sprays. Although they can be highly effective at deterring stingers and biters, this is usually because they are full of strong chemicals which you don’t want your skin to absorb. They are also often extremely strong smelling which isn’t ideal for little ones.

I’ve used these bug sprays for years but I think it’s time to stop and make my own. This way I can be exactly sure what is going into them, and consequently what I am putting onto my skin and that of my family.

Effective Homemade Bug Spray

1. Essential Oil Bug Spray

This homemade spray tutorial goes into detail about DEET, the main bug repelling ingredient in most store-bought sprays, and why it should be avoided. I learned last year when my sister was preparing for an exhibition, that this chemical is also bad for the environment, another reason why you should skip it.

This Essential Oil Bug Spray uses various oils from plants that bugs don’t like to create an effective repellent. Citronella is the perfect ingredient to deter mosquitos. Not only will it serve its purpose in this way, it will also smell sensational with lavender and geranium essential oils.

2. Bug Spray with Vodka

I know what you’re thinking, vodka isn’t the first thing you want to spray on your body. However, it’s incredibly useful for killing bugs and insects and can also help remove the stingy feeling in the aftermath of a bite.

The scent of alcohol will not be strong in this Bug Spray with Vodka because of the essential oil and vanilla extract. This recipe uses an essential oil blend which is handy if you don’t want to buy multiple bottles of different oils. I love the smell of vanilla, so its inclusion gets a big thumbs up from me, even before I found out that it is an ingredient detested by mosquitos and other bugs.

3. Lavender Bug Repellent

I have always associated lavender with aromatherapy and relaxation, never with bug repelling. According to this though, lavender oil is great to use both for the prevention and treatment of bug bites.

I love floral and herbal scents, so this Lavender Bug Repellent would be a joy to use. There are multiple ways you can use it, by diluting it with water and applying it to the body as a spray or even by mixing it with lotions or other carrier oils. Because of its antiseptic qualities, it can be applied directly to flared up bites or stings, but you might want to dilute it a little or at least use it sparingly.

4. Fresh Herb Bug Spray

We grow many herbs in our garden at home, so this Fresh Herb Bug Spray looks perfect. It would be practically free to make and would put our yield to extremely good use.

Along with the fresh herbs, this spray includes witch hazel or alcohol, whichever you prefer, which again works to deter bugs. This recipe gives you multiple options of fresh herbs you could use, so you could experiment to see which scents and combinations work best for you. The fresh mint will ensure that it smells delightfully fresh regardless.

5. Natural Insect Repellent Spray

Like many homemade bug spray recipes, all this one requires you to do is collect your ingredients and shake them up together in a spray bottle. This gives you no excuse not to give them a try, all you need is a minute or two, and the pests will leave you alone.

This Natural Insect Repellent Bug Spray leaves the essential oils up to you, although it gives a few suggestions if you’re stuck. I love fresh and citrus scents so I might try a combination of citronella, lemon, and lemongrass. Most other homemade sprays I have come across contain either vodka or witch hazel, but this includes both which makes me confident it will be highly effective.

6. Witch Hazel Bug Spray

Different bugs and insects react to different ingredients, so it’s worth having a think about which ones affect you the worst and researching the best essential oils to fend them off. According to this Witch Hazel Bug Spray recipe, peppermint, citronella, and rosemary are the ones who are hated by the broadest range of bugs so if you’re unsure then stick to them.

Again, witch hazel is used in most store-bought bug sprays but isn’t at all harmful to the skin. I also don’t mind the scent; it’s undoubtedly less alcoholic and sterile than using straight vodka.

7. Vinegar Insect Repellent

I had never heard of using apple cider vinegar as a bug repellent, but this recipe looks simple. This idea dates all the way back to the Black Plague, and although you won’t be coming across anything quite as threatening, it gives me hope that it will effectively deter the bugs.

Don’t be put off by the scent of this Vinegar Insect Repellent when you first spray it; the herbs will come through as it dries. The floral and herbal combination of sage, rosemary, lavender thyme and mint will be both soothing and strong enough to work. I grow all these things at home so I could whip up a batch whenever I please.

8. Bug Repellent Balm

I love trying something a little different when it comes to everything beauty and skincare related, this Bug Repellent Balm is highly intriguing.

What I love about this idea is how easily transportable it is, you could pop it in your handbag or backpack and top up whenever you needed to. You completely remove the risk of spraying it everywhere and covering other people or your clothes, the balm form makes it precise and easy. There are multiple divine scents going on here like lavender, lemon, and coconut so it almost doubles up as a perfume.

9. Citrus Bug Spray

I can imagine myself using this as a body spray regardless of whether or not I am going to be in a bug infested area. Citrus scents are perfect for the summer months, and I bet you won’t have any issues convincing your kids to pop this on.

This Citrus Bug Spray contains aloe vera which will soothe current bites as well as the skin in general. I love the idea of combining different citrus essential oils like grapefruit, orange, and lemon, and the citronella will make sure you are kept free from bugs while still smelling delicious.


I am almost excited for bug season to be upon us now I have all these amazing homemade bug repellents to try out. Where I’m from is surrounded by dense woods which we love to take walks through so these will come in handy to keep us protected.

That Bug Repellent Balm has drawn me right in and I love the fact I could use it on the go, both on myself and on my family. I will also be trying out one of the Fresh Herb Bug Sprays because they will be so easy for me to make with the herbs I already grow in my garden.

Have you ever made your own bug repellent? What’s your top tip for keeping those bugs at bay?

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Garten Gestalten

Air Plant Care: Wie Sie Ihre Air Plant anbauen, pflegen und ausstellen

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Do you have a terrarium” around your house to add natural d element rooms are you someone who likes grow something different every now and again>

If you fit into either one of these scenarios, I must tell you about a remarkable plant more people are turning into one of their favorite house plants.

This amazing plant is an air plant. It’s easy to care for, easy to raise and is fascinating to watch. I’m going to share with you how you can grow an air plant by itself or in a terrarium.

Here’s what you need to know about air plant care, to grow it successfully:

What is an Air Plant?

An air plant is a tropical plant known as a tillandsia. This plant is unique because, in its usual climate, the plant can survive by what it gathers in the air.

Air plants don’t use their roots to gather nutrients and water as most other plants do. Instead, the roots allow them to suction themselves to different surfaces.

However, they have to gain nutrients and water from somewhere. In fact, these plants have scales on their leaves which take on the job of absorbing what the plant needs to survive from the air.

The scales also do a great job at protecting the plant from the sun as well.

Air plants require a tad more care when they’re transformed into a houseplant, but they are still simple to raise.

If you’re looking for a unique and easy to care for houseplant, this could be exactly what you’ve been looking for.

How to Grow an Air Plant

To begin growing an air plant, it’s recommended you order them. When you have one plant you can create as many of them as you’d like.

Air plants have a hen and chick system when reproducing. Instead of referring to the new air plants as chick, the proper term is a pup.

An air plant will flower one time in its life. After this flowering occurs, the plant will usually produce a pup plant.

You don’t have to remove the pup from the original plant. If you don’t, the plant will begin to mound and create a beautiful, larger plant.

However, if you’d like to have other air plants to place around your home, sell, or give away, you’ll need to separate the pup from the original plant.

You’ll use a sharp knife to cut the pup from the plant. Be sure to take more of the mother plant when cutting the pup off instead of leaving some of the pup on the original plant.

When the pup has been removed, you’ll place it in a container and care for it as you would any other air plant.

If you’re unfamiliar with proper care technique for an air plant, don’t worry. We have you covered in the next section.

How to Care for an Air Plant

Air Plant

Air plants require little care. There are a few steps you’ll need to follow to ensure your plants are happy. If you do these things, you should find great success in raising air plants:

1. No Soil

Air plants require no soil when being planted. You choose a container and stick the plant in it. The roots will attach themselves to the base of the container and make this its new home.

I realize this is different in comparison to most plants, but the soil will do nothing for the plant beside make it more difficult for it to stabilize itself.

Also, don’t forget, the plant doesn’t absorb anything through its roots. They are there to help the plant be supported in its home.

This is what makes these plants fantastic because you don’t have to worry about soil quality or amending soil to satisfy this particular type of plant.

When you’ve decided what you’d like to grow your air plant in, place it in the container and move forward with the caring process.

2. Create the Right Climate

As I mentioned above, air plants are tropical plants. Meaning, they don’t handle cold well. The ideal circumstances will be growing this plant in your home where the temperature can stay consistently above 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

You’ll want the plant to be away from your air conditioning unit or vents. It should also be placed away from any windows where the plant could catch a draft.

Air plants require light as well. They need at least three hours of indirect light, but more are welcome. If you can’t give the plant three hours of light, consider placing the plant under a grow light to give it more.

If you can provide these basic needs, your plant should be happy.

3. Know Which Style of Air Plant You Have

Air plants have many different varieties, but all varieties have one of two types of leaves. The first type of leaf is a coated leaf.

These leaves have a white, dusty coating on them. This lets you know the variety of air plant you have comes from a dryer climate.

With these plants, you’ll need only to water them once or twice a week. They can also handle plenty of sunlight as well.

This might be a good variety of air plant if you want to raise a houseplant in your sunroom or another toasty area of your home.

The other type of leaf is one which has a satin exterior. These leaves come from the moist area of a tropical climate. They need to be watered more frequently.

Knowing the type of leaf your plant has will let you know how much care you should give it.

4. Water

There are multiple ways to water” an air plant. the first option is to mist your you use a spray bottle and entire plant container lives in. need do this daily ensure plants have enough water.>

The next option is to submerge the plant in water for a shorter period. You can pick your air plant up from the container and dunk it under water or place it under a faucet for a few minutes making sure the whole plant has been given ample water.

The final option for watering an air plant is the best option. The option is to submerge the air plant under water for hours.

When you do this, you fill up your sink with water and place the air plant inside of it. You can leave the plant for at least an hour, if not more.

The great thing about air plants is you can’t overwater them. They only absorb what they need and shed the rest.

If you choose this type of watering, you should only have to water one to two times per week, depending on how long you leave the plant in water.

Some say they leave their plants in the water for up to 12 hours! This is also a great watering method if you’ve inherited an air plant which was neglected.

You can soak the plant in water for a few hours and should be able to see a difference.

When done with any watering methods where you submerge the plant in water, be sure to hang the plant upside down over the tub of water and shake it. This will pull any water which might be hung in the center of the plant.

Also, give the plant an opportunity to dry for a brief period before placing it back in its planter.

5. Choose the Right Water

This is the only tricky part of raising an air plant. You’ll need to know which type of water you have. If you have city water, you’ll need to purchase distilled water to care for your air plant.

The reason being, the chemicals in city water can harm the plant.

If you have hard water, there’s chalk in it. This chalk can clog the scales of the air plant which means the plant can’t take in any necessary nutrients. In turn, this can kill your plants.

However, if you have soft water, it means you have salt in your water. The salt can also kill your plants.

Be sure to assess the water situation in your home before watering your air plant, or you could unknowingly give your plant a death sentence.

6. Fertilize

Finally, you’ll need to fertilize your air plants. You can purchase special air plant fertilizer or use a fertilizer meant for orchids.

You should fertilize once a month and follow the instructions on the packet.

However, if you choose to water your air plants by submerging them in water for a more extended period once a week, you can add the fertilizer to the watering session one time per month.

The plant will absorb both water and nutrients at once. You’ll need to shake the plant and give it time to dry.

But this simplifies and streamlines the care process.

Companion Plants

An air plant is a friendly plant. Meaning it can be placed in a container by itself or grown alongside other houseplants.

The great thing is if you have a houseplant planted in soil, you can set the air plant in the pot with the other plant, and it should thrive without any digging of dirt.

However, there are two plants in particular which air plants love to be planted around. They are:

If you’re growing any of these houseplants, be sure to put your air plant near them to keep them extra happy.

Different Ways to Display an Air Plant

Air plant on a log

There are many ways to display your air plants. You can place them in a glass” container>, wire” hanging basket>, inside a shell, or on a piece” of old wood>.

If you have a stone or brick” wall> you’d like to decorate, you can glue the roots to the surface for the plant to be able to grow there.

Keep in mind, if you glue the roots, you’ll have to water the plant more frequently because you could harm the plant when trying to detach it for submerging it in water.

Also, if you have a bathroom with a window,” this is a great location to grow your air plant. the humidity which comes from showers way water plant naturally.>

Though, keep in mind, you’ll still have to water your plant regularly. The sunlight from the window should meet the air plant’s need for indirect light as well.

There are many ways to grow an air plant. They’re easy to place and can be used in many unique ways. Hopefully, this guide on air plant care will give you the knowledge you need to get started in the process.

Your home should be on its way to having unique and lively décor which is sure to catch your guests’ attention.

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Garten Gestalten

24 zeitsparende Mahlzeiten in einem Glas Rezepte für Frühstück, Mittagessen und Abendessen

I am not usually one to follow trends, but as soon as mason jars became a household staple I jumped right on board. It would be impossible to count how many I have around the house, and I would never have imagined just how many things I could do with them.

Of course, they’re perfect for the ordinary purposes such as storing jams or dry ingredients, but I also use them to hold pens on my desk and as beautifully simple flower vases on my windowsills. They can act as a base for crafts, a candle holder, the possibilities are endless.

As a busy woman, I love the idea of these meals in jars, not only because I can prep them in advance but also because there is little washing up required. They’re easy to transport and pop in your bag, and could also be used as a packed lunch for kids at school. Many of these recipes look insanely appealing as the ingredients are layered and can be seen through the glass jar, something I would take great care in doing. From breakfast to dinner with all the snacks in between, there’s a recipe for everyone.

1. Blueberry and Grilled Peach Parfait

I can’t imagine a much more perfect way to start the day than with this Blueberry and Grilled Peach Parfait. I’m a sucker for a dessert which is what initially drew me to this recipe, but after looking at the surprisingly healthy ingredients, I don’t see why you couldn’t enjoy it for breakfast.

By grilling the peaches, you both enhance their sweetness and give them a slightly caramelized effect, meaning that each bite of peach will be explosive with flavor. The yogurt will balance out the sweetness, and you’ll get a healthy energy boost from those juicy blueberries.

2. Chicken Pot Pie

When imagining what meals I could make in a jar, it never crossed my mind that they could be comforting, thinking I would need to stick to salads and layered desserts. You can imagine my joy when I came across this Chicken Pot Pie recipe.

Not only do these little pies in jars look extremely cute, but they also sound positively scrumptious. This recipe makes six individual pies so you could either feed a whole family of mouths or freeze a few so you could have them ready to heat up whenever. They look like the perfect lunch and could be made into a wholesome dinner when paired with potatoes and veg.

3. Sausage, Spinach and Pepper Omelette

If you’re more of a savory breakfast fan then this Sausage, Spinach and Pepper Omelette will be right up your street.

The selection of ingredients in this omelet sounds delicious, with meaty sausage as well as crunchy peppers and healthy spinach. Adding yogurt to the egg mixture will ensure it is nice and creamy, giving it the perfect texture, and that melted cheese topping is the cherry on top. There is little washing up involved in this recipe which means it gets a big thumbs up from me.

4. Upside-Down Cherry Cheesecake

I’d eat each element of this Upside-Down Cherry Cheesecake by itself so together they create my version of heaven. I love cherries, but I don’t eat them enough, meaning I’m always looking for ways to incorporate them into my weekly meal plan.

The combination of both flavors and textures in this dessert sounds delightful. There’s the sour cherry sauce mellowed out by the creamy cheesecake filling, all sweetened by the graham crumb streusel which will also add a pleasing crunch. Be sure to dig your spoon right down to the bottom to scoop up a little bit of every layer.

5. Irish Shepherd’s Pie

Shepherd’s Pie is a staple in my house; we have a family recipe which has been passed down through numerous generations, each one tweaking it a little to keep it evolving.

These jar meals would be perfect to take to work and pop in the microwave, especially in the colder months when you’re craving something that will warm you right through. This particular recipe is a vegetarian version which I love, but if it’s not your thing you could swap out the vegetarian sausages for beef mince. I love my mashed potatoes extra smooth, something the milk will help with, and of course, it’s not a traditional shepherd’s pie without cheese on top.

6. Overnight Oatmeal

I’ve never been adventurous with my breakfasts, but that’s something I have been eagerly trying to change, as I see a massive improvement in my productivity on days when I take more time making a filling, nutritious breakfast.

I’ve seen Overnight Oatmeal all over the internet and social media recently but haven’t gotten round to trying it myself. This collection of 20 oatmeal recipes is the perfect way of finding the best one for you. Whether you’re more of a pear and pistachio fan or more enthused by the idea of pumpkin spice this is bound to be the most delicious breakfast, and one you prepare the night before meaning you can take your time to enjoy it.

7. Nutella Mousse Peanut Butter Cups

Finding someone who wouldn’t drool over these Nutella Mousse Peanut Butter Cups would be quite the challenge. Not only are desserts in jars easy to store in the fridge, they’re also easy to eat and are already separated into individual portion sizes.

I can imagine my family and I on the sofa watching a movie, each tucking into a jar of delight. I like the use of multiple textures like the wafers giving a subtle crunch against the smooth mousse. This recipe would be easy to tweak too so feel free to add extra goodies like crushed cookies or chocolate chips.

8. Lazy Lasagne

Lasagne has always been one of my favorite meals, adding a jar to the equation only makes it more exciting. The recipe refers to this as ‘Lazy Lasagne‘ which instantly made me want to try it as there are few things better than quick and easy comfort food.

Because it’s intended to be fast there are few ingredients in this lasagne, making it cost effective and straightforward. It uses a pre-made pasta sauce which I see no problem with, though nothing is stopping you from making your own if you would rather. I am a firm believer that lasagne tastes better as leftovers so I will be making this in advance and refrigerating it to enjoy a day or two after.

9. Zucchini Pasta Salad with Avocado Spinach Dressing

When I first thought about making easy lunches in jars, my brain immediately jumped to pasta salads, but none were quite as exciting as this Zucchini Pasta Salad with Avocado Spinach Dressing. By investing in, or recycling, a couple of large jars like the one in this example you can make extravagant salads with different layers and even dressings just like in this example.

The avocado spinach dressing will ensure the salad is moist and flavorful, not that that’s a concern with all the delicious veg inside. Feta cheese is a must, adding the perfect hint of saltiness. The jar is ideal for shaking this salad up and combining everything so that each mouthful is different but equally delicious.

10. Pumpkin Macaroni Cheese

Pass me macaroni cheese of any kind, and I will wolf it down in seconds. It’s the dish my mom would always make for me when I was unwell or sad as a child, so it holds a special cheesy place in my heart.

Again, the fact this Pumpkin Macaroni Cheese is in a jar makes it easy to eat so you could enjoy it while sitting at your desk or watching tv. I’ve never tried this flavor of macaroni, but I am intrigued by the sound of it and can imagine the pumpkin would add a certain sweetness and depth of flavor. Although I think you can’t beat the classic recipe, I can certainly feel my mouth watering looking at this one, and love the idea of adding a crunchy topping with breadcrumbs and nuts.

11. Blueberry Pancakes

If I could have freshly made, warm pancakes for breakfast every day, I most certainly would. Sadly, I neither have the time nor the motivation to make them every morning, but luckily I have found these Blueberry Pancakes which could be the next best thing.

The mixture is similar to that of a regular pancake mix, but they look like they will have a slightly different texture. This method removes the hassle of cooking the pancakes individually and dealing with the mixture sticking to the pan, making them perfect for busy mornings. Blueberries are one of my favorite things to add to my pancakes, but some other things you could try are raisins or chocolate chips.

12. DIY Instant Noodle Cups

Step away from the salt and sugar filled instant noodle cups you buy at the store and move towards these DIY Instant Noodle Cups instead. Not only will these be far better for you health-wise, but you can also customize them to include all your favorite ingredients and flavors.

It would make the perfect office lunch, and I can bet those around you would be enquiring as to what you’re eating. I love the fact this recipe doesn’t have one definite set of ingredients to add. Instead, it gives you multiple options for each component and leaves it up to you to create your ideal noodle cup. This is going to be my go-to lunch when the colder months come around again.

13. Sriracha Shrimp Caesar Salad

I wish I were more adventurous with my salads, but I can’t deny the fact my favorite remains a Caesar, without a doubt. Of course, I have had many a chicken Caesar salad before but never one with shrimp, so I am ecstatic to see my love of Caesar and seafood come together to create something beautiful.

This Sriracha Shrimp Caesar Salad looks like an inventive twist on the classic recipe which I am always up for. You could adjust the quantities if you’d rather, but I think the proposed portions in this recipe look just right. Sriracha will add a sweet and spicy hit, two flavors which work exceptionally well with prawns. Be sure to shake up the jar before eating so the beautiful dressing coats everything well.

14. Deconstructed Sushi

Imagine the fun you could have by creating one of these Deconstructed Sushi jars. There are many colorful, delicious ingredients you could include and use to make beautiful patterns on the side of the jar.

Even aside from its looks, this meal in a jar sounds divine. If you like sushi, you will undoubtedly love this as it’s the equivalent of multiple pieces of sushi combined. By adding a vinegar and sugar mixture to the rice, you add flavor as well as giving it that signature, almost sticky sushi rice consistency. The raw vegetables will add a crunch and hint of freshness as you work your way through the jar and, of course, nori is a must.

15. Pomegranate and Pear Salad

If you’re looking for an uplifting, fresh salad, then look no further than this Pomegranate and Pear Salad. It’s a wonderful and easy way to move away from a regular lettuce salad without having to buy expensive ingredients or opt for something store bought.

Blue cheese isn’t everyone’s favorite thing, but it certainly is one of mine. You could omit it from this recipe entirely if you’d rather, but I’d advise replacing it with another similar cheese to keep the salty element. Feta would work well. Pomegranate isn’t something I use enough considering how much I love it; the seeds are fabulous to use in salads as you get a little burst of sweetness when biting into them. All elements of this salad complement each other, and each one adds a unique texture.

16. Cinnamon Rolls

I wish it were acceptable to eat fresh cinnamon rolls for breakfast every single day, but I doubt my health would thank me for it. Instead, I think of them as a weekend treat for when I’ve had a tough or busy week.

All this Cinnamon Roll recipe requires you to do is combine all the ingredients to form a dough, cover that with yummy cinnamon filling and roll it up before popping the rolls into jars. I tend to prefer cream cheese frosting with my cinnamon rolls, but this vanilla icing also looks divine so you can choose between the two. Top these with some fresh berries and tuck in for the most warming sweet treat.

17. Granola Parfaits

It would take a matter of minutes to pop the ingredients required for these Granola Parfaits into jars. To ensure the process is as quick as possible be sure to either purchase or make a big batch of granola in advance. Keeping your supply stocked will also enable you to make one of these whenever you please.

Because they contain three different elements; granola, fruit and yogurt, they will keep you nice and full up until lunch. You could change which fruit you use every day to keep it fresh. I have a terrible habit of sleeping in when I’ve stayed up too late the night before, so the idea of putting this together, throwing it into my bag and eating it when I get to work is far more appealing than going without breakfast.

18. Pho Soup

When backpacking around Southeast Asia last year I picked up a whole lot of new favorite meals, one of those being Vietnamese Pho Soup. Even in the heat, this soup was incredibly light and refreshing, and between us, we got through a fair few bowls.

The use of thin rice noodles means the soup isn’t too filling despite it being a large portion. Soy sauce and chicken stock provide the primary flavoring for the soup itself which means it will be rich and tasty, also allowing for the vegetables to take on those flavors. Because the vegetables are raw when added to the jar, they will cook slowly once the water is added so they’ll maintain a certain crunch to give the soup texture.

19. S’mores

There is no possible way to pass this off as a healthy dessert option, but everyone needs to treat themselves every now and again. I have always had the biggest sweet tooth, so this is my idea of heaven, although if you’re using a bigger jar, this could make an excellent treat for sharing.

Each layer of these S’mores sounds heavenly, and I can imagine plunging a spoon right through them all to taste every bit of goodness. The textures will compliment each other well with the crunchy graham crackers acting like a cheesecake base, the light as a feather marshmallow fluff and the creamy, indulgent chocolate ganache. You could make a few of these in advance and store them in the fridge for a rainy day.

20. Chili and Cornbread

I found a few recipes for things like chili and bolognese in jars but wasn’t sure as they didn’t look like they would constitute a full meal. This Chili and Cornbread does, however, as the addition of the cornbread as a carbohydrate creates a more balanced jar.

It would be easy to make this a vegetarian dish by removing the beef and adding extra vegetables and beans. The recipe suggests slow cooking the chili which will ensure it’s beautifully rich and the meat is deliciously tender, though you could also make it on the stove if you’re pushed for time. Because the cornbread is at the top of the jar, you will be able to push it into the mixture, letting the yummy chili cover it.

21. Tropical Sriracha Chicken Salad

Amongst multiple other unique looking salad recipes, there is this Tropical Sriracha Chicken Salad. I find sriracha wonderful to squeeze on top of salads as it adds a little sweet spice without overdoing it with heat.

Again this is layered beautifully, and I know for a fact the neat freak inside me would spend too long organizing my ingredients to look picture perfect. What makes this salad tropical is the addition of pineapple, one of my favorite fruits. Because the chicken is marinaded before being added to the salad, it will be packed full of flavor which makes a welcome change to the bland chicken you often find in store-bought salads.

22. BBQ Parfait

This BBQ Parfait is unlike any parfait I have ever seen before. When someone says parfait my mind instantly jumps to a sweet, layered dessert and, although this will have a hint of sweetness, it’s far from that.

I will most definitely be giving these a go. I love anything BBQ flavored and they look so unique. As the recipe suggests, these can be made in advance to save time or even taken on a picnic, where you could enjoy them warm or cold. The slow cooked pork looks spectacular, and you can even use your preferred recipe for it. I’d love to add a little cheese to the mashed potato to give it extra flavor.

23. Burrito Bowls

Burrito Bowls have become some of my new favorite meals, and I always grab them if they’re on the menu when I’m eating out. Despite how simple they are to make I’ve never actually tried to do it myself, but the recipes and ingredients in these examples look so delicious I doubt I’ll be able to hold off any longer.

Popping classic burrito ingredients into a jar is like popping them into a bowl but better. A jar is far easier to transport than a bowl, meaning you could munch away on your commute, at your desk or even while on the go. Another beauty of the jar is you can put the lid back on once you get full and go back to it later, so nothing goes to waste.

24. Thai Salad

I’m crazy for Thai cuisine, all their flavors excite me, and I’ve never tried a dish I didn’t thoroughly enjoy.

I try to incorporate Thai flavors into my cooking as much as I can because no one in my family ever complains and they’re often extremely healthy. This Thai Salad looks amazing, so bright and colorful and I can almost smell the fragrances from the photo. It’s very versatile so you could use any meat or fish you’d like, or even omit it entirely if you’d rather keep it vegetarian. I can see myself sitting out in the garden enjoying one of these multiple times this summer.


I’m going to have to invest” in even more jars> now which is surprising based on how many I already have, and possibly a new cupboard to store them all in. I have fallen in love with the idea of making up a breakfast jar in the evening and waking up in the morning knowing I will have a filling, nutritious breakfast regardless of how much time I have to get ready.

For midweek breakfasts I’ll be trying out the Overnight Oatmeal, most probably with some strawberries, and on weekends I’ll treat myself to a Cinnamon Roll or Blueberry Pancakes. For my lunches at work, I can’t wait to make some Pho Soup and bring back those traveling memories.

Have you ever made a meal in a jar? Can you see yourself saving time and prepping your breakfast and lunch the night before?

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Garten Gestalten

Anbau von Meerrettich: Wie man Meerrettich anpflanzt, anbaut und erntet

Are you a Wasabi fan? Doesn’t a dab of that stuff taste delicious in a tuna roll? Don’t you wish you could grow the ingredients to make it home?

True wasabi – as in the stuff made from the Wasabia Japonica root — is incredibly hard to find outside of Japan. The plant is also super picky about growing conditions. In fact, to grow it in most areas, you’d need to create the perfect artificial conditions and intensively care for plants for 2 years before harvesting.

Luckily, most of us have not been eating true wasabi. That green-clay” like paste> that comes on your sushi plate is actually made with horseradish root (Armoracia rusticana).

Homemade wasabi is just one reason you might want to grow horseradish at home. Here are a few more.

Horseradish Plant Info:

  • Hardiness” zones>: 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
  • Soil: Sandy, loam, pH between 6.0 and 7.5, deep, fertile, well-drained, work the soil with 4 to 6 inches of compost and 2 ounces of all-purpose fertilizer per square yard before planting
  • Sun Exposure: Full sun to partial shade
  • Planting: Plant sets 2 to 3 weeks before the average date of the last frost in spring
  • Spacing: 18 to 24 inches between plants and 1 foot between rows
  • Depth: 4 to 5 inches, plant at a 45 degrees angle
  • Best Companions: Potato,” yam plum rhubarb sweet potato companions: water regularly to inches of per week>
  • Fertilizing: Apply fertilizer high in potassium and phosphorus but low in nitrogen 4 to 8 weeks after planting
  • Common Problems: Brittle root, bacterial leaf spot, cercospora leaf spot, white rust, ramularia leaf spot, mosaic disease, cabbage looper, flea beetles, crucifer weevil, diamondback moth
  • Harvest: Harvest when the tops have been frozen back in the fall, usually 140 to 160 days after planting

Reasons to Grow Horseradish

Horseradish root is exceptionally easy to grow, highly productive, and has a lot of other uses beyond making wasabi. It’s great for clearing sinuses. It’s the key ingredient in cocktail sauce. I personally couldn’t imagine eating roast beef without it.

If you are a fan of the ferments, a little horseradish root adds flare to kimchi. It makes fermented mustard magical. Put a little in your homemade bread and butter pickles for a bit of bite that perfectly compliments the sweet, smooth sour flavor of those old time favorites.

In case we ever have to face another Bubonic plague, including freshly grated horseradish root in your Four Thieves Vinegar Tonic (or fire cider) will make it even more likely to ward off the illness. OK – I might be exaggerating a bit. But, in truth, the medicinal benefits of horseradish are well-known, particularly as a preventative for seasonal illnesses and a treatment for sinus congestion.

Oh, and did I mention that horseradish is one of the best all-around companion plants to ward pests away from your more precious crops?

Horseradish Varieties

There are only a few varieties of horseradish available for planting at home. Broadly, they are referenced by their leaf structure. There are smooth or crinkle-leafed varieties.

1. Common Horseradish

Common horseradish, sometimes called Maliner Kren, has crinkled leaves. This variety is prized for its large roots. However, it can be a bit more susceptible to some diseases.

2. Bohemian Horseradish

Bohemian horseradish has smooth leaves. There are two common commercially available strains of this variety called Swiss and Sass. The roots are not as large as common horseradish, but their disease resistance is better.

3. Crossed Horseradish

In order to improve disease resistance for commercial production, there are also some new crossed varieties of horseradish being developed. For example, Big Top Western horseradish, from the University of Illinois, has large roots and good disease resistance. However, they also have a cork-like outer layer around the root that may need to be peeled before use.

How to Plant Horseradish

Horseradish can be started from seeds or from cuttings taken from mature roots.

Method 1: Starting Horseradish from Seed

To start horseradish from seed, use the same procedures as you would for any other annual vegetable seeds. Start” indoors>, under lights,” to get a jump on the growing season.>

You can also direct seed, outdoors, when your soil” temperature> reaches 45ºF.

In either case, press seeds about 1/4 inch into your planting medium. Keep soil moist, but not soggy, until plants are well-established.

Method 2: Starting Horseradish in Pots from Root Cuttings

Seeds take a long time and are not as reliable as starting from root cuttings. Luckily, in areas with short growing seasons, you can also start new plants from root cuttings indoors.

Personally, when starting root cuttings indoors, I like to use one-gallon pots. This saves me from having to re-pot my horseradish multiple times before transplanting outside.

Fill your pot with loose potting” mix>. Push the root cutting 2 inches into the soil and cover.  Place the crown side (usually wider) up for faster sprouting.

Keep the soil moist, but not sopping, until you are ready to plant outside.

If you plan to leave your horseradish in containers for the growing season, use large pots that are at least 18 inches deep and wide. Horseradish can grow in smaller pots, but you’ll end up with stunted roots and an unhappy plant.

Method 3: Starting Horseradish in the Ground from Root Cuttings

I live in USDA planting” zone>. Since my soil warms up to about 45ºF in March or early April, I find it easiest to plant horseradish direct in the ground. Here’s my procedure for direct planting when soil temperatures are between 45ºF and 75ºF.

  1. Root cuttings may be somewhat dehydrated after storing. Soak your cuttings in a bowl of water for a few hours before planting.
  2. Prepare” your garden soil> down to about 12 inches deep and 18 inches out from the center of your planting area. If your soil is compacted or heavy clay, add organic matter, like well-aged” compost>, to improve soil texture and drainage” for good growth.>
  3. Plant your root cutting at about 2-3 inches deep by laying the cutting across the soil. The head of the cutting is where leaves will emerge. So if you are planting multiple cuttings, you may want to orient the crowns in the same direction so the leaves emerge equally spaced at about three feet apart.
  4. Cover your root cutting with soil, level with the ground.
  5. Water” deeply> to activate growing.
  6. Keep the soil” moist>, using deep watering, until plant leaves are about a foot high.
  7. Weed regularly until plants are established.

Tip 1: When to Plant Horseradish

Horseradish seeds can be started indoors in early winter and planted outside after” risk of frost>.

Seeds can also be direct-sown in a permanent location when soil temperature is between 45ºF and 75ºF. Depending on your planting” zone>, this will usually be between March and mid-summer.

Root cuttings are most commonly planted in early spring or fall. This is the best time to harvest roots from existing plants to use to start new plants. Also, cooler temperatures in spring and fall facilitate speedy growth.

Tip 2: Horseradish Zone Hardiness

Horseradish is hardy for USDA” planting zones> 3 – 9.

As a perennial, it grows better in areas with hard winter freezes to force the plant into dormancy. It also develops better pungency in areas with long, cool growing seasons, particularly in fall.

In warm climates, consider planting in an area that will receive 6+ hours of morning sunlight and partial afternoon shade.

Tip 3: Light Requirements for Horseradish

Horseradish can be grown in full sun to partial shade. Ideally, in cool climates opt for full-sun. In warmer climates aim for morning sun and afternoon partial shade.

When starting indoors, a sunny windowsill can work or it can be grown under daylights.

Tip 4: Soil Requirements for Horseradish

When grown as a perennial, horseradish is not very picky about soil types. It can grow in almost all soil types as long as they are not water-logged. Once established it can even tolerate drought.

For best root production though, growing in deep, prepared garden soil produces bigger roots. It is also much easier to harvest horseradish grown in good soil.

Similar to other root vegetables like beets, too much nitrogen can cause the plant to focus on leaf growth rather than root growth. For best fertilization, use one of these options:

  • Fertilize horseradish beds at least 6 months before you plant.
  • Plant in moderately fertile soil.
  • Plant after nitrogen hogs, like corn, have depleted excess nitrogen.

Tip 5: Ways to Plant Horseradish

Horseradish, for root production, is planted similar to other annual garden vegetables. Plant it in prepared garden beds in fall or early spring, then harvest in late fall.

You can also plant horseradish in a permanent location such as in an edible landscape plot as a pest deterrent and an interesting edible ornamental.

Horseradish also makes a great container plant. Use a deep and wide container to allow plenty of room for the roots to grow.

Tip 6: Expected Germination Time for Horseradish

In ideal conditions, horseradish grown from root cuttings will grow very quickly. Leaves can break ground in just a few days and be a foot tall in a month.

Horseradish grown from seed may take a few weeks to germinate. For best results, allow seedlings to grow in ideal conditions for about 10-12 weeks before hardening off and transplanting outdoors.

Tip 7: Horseradish Spacing

When grown as an annual, plant on 3-foot centers (e.g. allow 1.5 feet of space in all directions around the plant).

When grown as a perennial,” due to the invasive nature of horseradish leave a buffer between and other plants. when your begins grow into zone dig up new roots around perimeter control for size.>

How to Care for Horseradish

Horseradish is fairly easy to grow. Depending on whether you are growing for annual root harvests or as a perennial companion plant, there are a few minor differences in the plant care.

Method 1: Growing Horseradish as an Annual

Technically, horseradish is a perennial.” however because the root is edible part many growers dig up most of in fall each year.>

To replant in the same location, simply leave a section of the root behind in the soil to start next year’s horseradish.

If you plan to rotate your horseradish annually for pest and disease prevention, then you can store some of your root cuttings to use to plant next year. Make sure to save roots from healthy plants that are free from defects like dark spots or streaks.

Using this method, you are technically replanting new horseradish plants each year. Similar to planting crops like garlic and winter wheat, make sure that the soil remains moist until the plant is dormant (e.g. due to winter cold). In spring, make soil is moist until the plant is growing vigorously.

Similar to growing other garden vegetables, this method depletes the soil or organic matter and minerals quickly. Apply compost” annually in fall. also unless your soil is mineral heavy consider applying a sprinkle of phosphate> each year to supplement depleted minerals.

Weed regularly for best production.

Method 2: Growing Horseradish as a Perennial

Horseradish grown as a perennial is mostly used as a companion plant to deter pests away from more valuable crops such as fruit” trees>. However, every couple years, you will need to uproot any side growth around the main roots.

These side roots can branch off and become new plants. In time, without harvesting these runners, the plant can become invasive and hard to eradicate.

Perennial horseradish places fewer demands on the soil. Allowing the leaves to die back to the ground, and remain in place in winter, acts as a natural mulch. Adding a couple inches of mulch in fall, every other year will add back nutrients to the soil without creating nitrogen overload.

Rather than weed around perennial horseradish, consider chopping weeds down and leaving them to decompose in place under the horseradish. This adds organic matter and helps smother new weeds. Also, make sure to remove any flowering weeds or seed heads to reduce weed pressure in future years.

Possible Problems Growing Horseradish

Horseradish is relatively easy to grow with few problems. When grouping mass plantings together the risks for pest and other problems are higher.

Most home growers only need a few plants for a sufficient supply of horseradish. So, pest and disease risks are minimal on the homestead.


Those of us growing horseradish at home often grow much tastier options for the pests that might eat our horseradish leaves. Cabbage, turnip, radish, mustard, and other members of the brassica family are all preferred options for potential horseradish pests.

That being said, you may want to be on the lookout for these pests just in case.

1. Imported Cabbage Moth Larva

Those small white moths with tiny black spots on their wings, who flit around, pollinating plants with pleasure are also one of the peskiest pests for anyone growing cabbage. They lay eggs that become cabbage moth larva (aka caterpillars). The larva devours the leaves of brassicas and does severe damage to crops.

Though they aren’t super likely to favor your horseradish, you may occasionally find them on your plants.


Manually picking off those larvae and feeding them to your chickens or drowning them in water is usually sufficient for control. At worst, spraying your horseradish leaves with neem oil during the mating season for those pests might be necessary.

2. Imported Crucifer Weevil


The adult Imported Crucifer Weevil is metallic blue-black and about 1/10 inch long. Their white grub-like larva bore into the horseradish roots. They impact the quantity and quality of the roots harvested.


You can use insecticides” to treat for this pest. alternatively by growing horseradish as an annual in different locations each year you can break up pest life cycle and control the population.>

3. Horseradish Flea Beetle

Horseradish Flea Beetle

Flea beetles are very small and tend to make buckeye holes in plant leaves. Except in extreme cases, they don’t have much impact on the plant’s productiveness. However, they do make the leaves less attractive.


If flea beetle damage covers more than 20% of the plant, insecticides may be necessary. Diatomaceous” earth>, sprinkled on the leaves, can be an effective deterrent.

Alternatively, planting trap plants like radishes and turnips nearby and then using a vacuum to suck up flea beetles can work well to control populations and limit the damage.


There are a few diseases that can do severe damage to horseradish plants.

1. Turnip Mosaic Virus

Turnip Mosaic is a disease that can limit the productivity of your horseradish plant. It appears as mosaic mottling and yellow rings on the leaf.


There is no current treatment for this virus. Plant resistant varieties of horseradish if this disease is common in your area or known to be in your soil.

2. White-rust

White rust is a fungal disease that is more likely to impact plants that are water-logged or planted too closely together. It causes discoloration in the infected parts and forms white powder pustules on the plant.


White rust can be treated with fungicides. Additionally, good soil drainage, good air circulation, and planting disease-resistant type of horseradish are good prevention measures.

3. Bacterial Leaf Spot

Bacterial Leaf Spot begins as dark green spots on leaves that eventually turn brown.


This can be controlled with fungicides and copper solutions. This disease is most common in cooler weather between 50° to 75°F. Check leaves often during cooler periods and address quickly to keep your plants productive.

Companion Planting with Horseradish

Horseradish does just fine on its own. It’s one of the few plants that can be a hermit, loner-type and not shrivel up and die from loneliness. That tendency makes it a great guard plant to protect others. As such, you may want to consider planting it close to almost anything that suffers heavy pest pressure.

Best Companions for Horseradish

Here are a few ideas to get you thinking about how to use horseradish as a general pest preventative.

1. Potatoes

Horseradish is reputed for deterring the dreaded Colorado Potato Beetle. Since these are both root vegetables and benefit from similar soil types, they make good companions in terms of bed preparation too. Give horseradish plenty of root space though so it doesn’t out-compete your potatoes” for nutrients.>

2. Plants Aphids Love

That would be any plant not in the Brassica Family that is susceptible to Aphid attacks.

Aphids are not the most destructive pest in the garden, but they can be really irritating since so many plants are susceptible hosts. Thank goodness there’s horseradish to help!

Plant some horseradish in pots and move those pots near plants under aphid attack as needed. Start by using soapy water to eliminate the aphid-offenders from the infested plant. Then, let the horseradish stave off any other would-be attackers to give the affected plant time to heal.

3. Perennial Crops

Horseradish is awesome near fruit trees, with berry bushes, in strawberry” patches alongside or its roots are pretty offensive to voles moles mice and airborne pests. as long it is kept in check through the regular harvesting of makes a great general pest-preventative for long-lived perennials.>

4. Long-Standing Annual Crops

Crops like sweet potatoes and pumpkins that have long growing seasons are subject to a number of different pest attacks. Planting horseradish around these plants can help deter potential pests. Also, setting container plantings of horseradish in the midst of these vining machines can deter aerial pest pressure.

Worst Companions for Horseradish

Avoid planting horseradish with any plants in the brassica family. Cabbage, turnips, kale, radish, mustard, etc. are all bad news for horseradish. Those crops stay in the ground for a few months. When they are harvested, pests may move over to your long-standing horseradish and wreak havoc.

Harvesting Horseradish

Now for the fun part! Dig those roots up and use them for good health and delicious eating.

1. Harvesting Annual Horseradish

Horseradish tastes best after a long cool, growing period. This is why most people harvest in mid to late fall.

If you are growing horseradish as an annual, dig up the entire root. Make sure you get every last bit since even a tiny fraction of the root can return as a plant.

If you want to regrow in the same area next year, cut off a few inches of the root and leave it in the soil at 2-3 inches deep. Or, go plant it somewhere else for next year.

2. Harvesting Perennial Horseradish

OK – so you don’t exactly harvest from perennial horseradish. But you do want to occasionally dig up and chop off those side shoots that give the plant the mistaken reputation for being invasive. They aren’t usually so big, but you can eat those too.

When the plant is dormant but the soil is still workable, I use a spade to turn up the soil all around the main plant root. I start digging about a foot away from the crown in all directions. Then I pick out all the little root bits that my spade separated from the parent plant.

I dig down and out as far as necessary to make sure I have all those side roots. When I am satisfied, I put the soil back in place, top it off with some mulch and go have some roast beef with my horseradish tidbits!

Storing Horseradish

Horseradish uses

For best long-term storage, harvest when the soil is mostly dry. Do not wash your harvested roots.

You can put them in your refrigerator crisper or store them in your appropriately humid root cellar for months.

Or, even better, you can use them fresh to make all your favorite ferments and horseradish based concoctions like wasabi, cocktail sauce, and more.

I hope this information helps you achieve that fabulous nose-clearing, horseradish happiness in your home-grown garden!

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