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Wachsen und Pflegen von Oxalis Triangularis-Pflanzen

The Oxalis triangularis is a variant of the shamrock plant and is best known as the purple shamrock. If you do not know the purple shamrock, you might have also bashed the triangularis for being an invasive plant.

In this article, we will talk about everything about the Oxalis triangularis and why it could be one of the greatest additions to your thriving garden.

Contents

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Quick Facts

Before we get to the technicalities of taking care of the Oxalis triangularis, let us first get to know about it through some quick facts.

  • It has religious origins. Rumor has it that the Oxalis triangularis can be traced back to the time of St. Patrick when he was trying to explain the concept of the Holy Trinity to the Irish using an Oxalis stem with three leaves.
  • It is photophilic. The Oxalis is an amazing plant because its leaves and flowers close and open depending on the amount of light it receives.
  • It is also called as the love plant. It is called as such because of its heart shaped purple leaves, which by the way, makes it one of the most attractive houseplants.

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Where to buy Oxalis triangularis?

The triangularis is one of the easiest plants to grow and one of the most easy to maintain. As such, it can now be ordered and shipped through the major international online shops like Amazon. It is also mostly available in local greeneries and plant shops worldwide.

Planting

1. When to plant

The best time to plant the triangularis is during early spring when it could still grow its first leaves after four to six weeks.

It is not advisable to plant it after spring because it will go dormant and its leaves will close in the daylight making it not grow.

2. Where to plant

It can be grown both outdoors and indoors because it is both cold and sun hardy. This means that it needs to be in a strategic place where it could get full sunlight every day.

The good thing is that, you don’t have to worry about it during the colder seasons because it can thrive where it is planted as long as it could get bright light.

3. How to plant

Using seeds, fill the pot with as much as you can. One inch apart is okay since the triangularis can also tolerate overcrowding.

For four to six weeks, lightly water the pot twice every week. After the sixth week or as soon as you see small leaves sprouting, you can water the triangularis more lightly with an interval of once every two weeks.

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It will go dormant for a few weeks so don’t worry if they look wilted because after their dormancy period, they will come around like nothing happened.

Care

1. Soil

Like all other houseplants, the triangularis needs a fast draining soil because it is not dependent on too much water. The best potting mix recommended for this houseplant is humus.

2. Light and temperature

The triangularis requires bright light or six to eight hours of full sun a day. As for temperature, it can tolerate cold temperatures but it can go dormant if it drops to below 13 degrees Celsius or when it goes higher than 30 degrees Celsius.

3. Water and humidity

All it needs is light watering. Close watering intervals will be needed during its active growth phase which is six weeks after planting. Twice a week watering during this phase is required.

After it grows more leaves and height, watering shall be lessened to once every two weeks. There’s no such thing as too humid for the triangularis. Just follow the temperature requirements and then you’ll be all good.

4. Fertilizer

You will need a liquid fertilizer for the triangularis specifically during active growth phase. During this period, feeding it once every two weeks is required. When it enters dormancy, fertilizer is a big no.

5. Propagation

Propagating must be done during its dormancy phase. You will have to use offsets for propagation. Propagation can be done after one to two years of the main plant.

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6. Pruning

There are three instances which will signal you to prune: when the tips of the leaves become dry; when it becomes overcrowded and messy, when it has burnt leaves. Normally, pruning happens after a year.

Problems

Growing Problems and Diseases

The most common problem and disease of the triangularis are fungal” diseases>. They occur when the foliage turns red and not purple (this is called rusting), when the tips of the leaves” turn brown> (burnt leaves) or when spots become visible in the leaves (ring spots).

Pests

The triangularis is a favorite of aphids and whiteflies because they could easily take shelter in its overcrowded leaves.

FAQs

Is oxalis triangularis good for the soil where it is planted?

The answer is actually yes. According to Million Trees, the oxalis enriches the soil with the mineral called phosphorous. It is an essential mineral for active growth phase and is good for grass.

Can the oxalis survive winter frosts?

There are various Oxalis variants and not all of them are cut out for winter. But fortunately, the Oxalis triangularis will survive winters as it has winter tolerance of up to zone 6 of USDA hardiness.

References:

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15+ Outdoor-Fliesen-Ideen für Ihre Terrasse

The use of tiles can surely transform your outdoor area. If you want to make your outdoor area to look more gorgeous, here are some of the best outdoor tiles to consider using.

You May Like These Garden Ideas

What tiles can be used outside?

You will want to look for more durable, more stable and permanent, as well as easy to maintain tiles for your decks and patios.

The tiles that you can use for the outside surfacing are; natural stone tiles which are made of either granite, limestone, slate or travertine. Porcelain tiles are also great for the outside surfaces. You can also go for the wood tiles.

What are the best outdoor tiles?

The best outdoor tiles are; porcelain tiles, ceramic tiles, quarry tiles, travertine, slate, granite, limestone, decking tiles, concrete tiles, soapstone, and sandstone.

Porcelain tile is chosen for its density and strength. Soapstone is a smooth, non-porous and silky-textured stone which is excellent to use around swimming pools.

How much is outdoor tile?

The cost of outdoor tile depends on the type of tile material. It is also sold per square foot. You should also note that the cost of indoor tiles is cheaper than outdoor tiles.

One square foot of outdoor porcelain tile will cost between $3 to $ 35, ceramic tile costs between $1 to $35, porcelain wood tile $3 to $35, rectified tile costs between $1 to $ 35 and slate costs between $5 to $35.

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Can indoor tiles be used outdoors?

You cannot use indoor tiles in outdoor areas. This is because the indoor tiles are not equipped to withstand the outside conditions.

The harsh outside conditions such as frost, heat, and sunlight will make the indoor tiles to wear and tear easily.

1. Outdoor tiles for porch

Source: hometalk, decoruminteriordesign

When choosing for the outside tiles for porch, you should consider the density, durability, ease of cleaning and resistance to outside conditions.

Porcelain tiles are the best for the porch area since they are denser than other outdoor tiles. Concrete tiles are also suitable for the outside porch since they are durable and colorful.

2. Outdoor tiles for garden

Source: adamrobinsondesign

Tiling your garden will give you the comfort that you have never experienced. Porcelain tiles are the best choice to use for your garden.

You can also use the ceramic tiles since they are durable, and have high traction to prevent slipping.

3. Garden Path Tiles

4. Large outdoor tiles

Source: mandarinstone

Large outdoor tiles are capable of transforming the looks and appearance of your outdoor area. This is because the larger the tile used the fewer the grout lines formed.

Large porcelain tiles can measure up to 17 by 35. The format of the large porcelain tiles will give an impression of both depth and movement.

5. Outdoor slate tile

Tutorial: decorandthedog

Slate tiles can be used on outdoor surfaces. However, the installation of the tiles is unique. These tiles can only be installed on top of durable surfaces such as concrete or plywood.

This kind of tile cannot be placed on top of dirt or grass. Also, when installing ensure that you use acrylic or latex mortar that will be able to handle the high temperatures.

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6. Outdoor limestone tile

Limestone is the perfect material to use for the outside surfaces. Limestone has two very important characteristics that make it perfect for outdoor surfaces.

Limestone is highly durable and it stands out because of its beautiful appearance. Additionally, this material is easy to cut and thus is a suitable choice to create different and unique designs.

You can use limestone on your garden surface, outdoor kitchen and outdoor living areas.

7. Outdoor marble tile

The perfect marble for outdoor surfaces is one that is textured. Polished marble will easily get damaged if used in the outside surfaces.

The best marble will be able to withstand outside climatic conditions. Bigger marble is suitable to make the outside space appear bigger.

Proper maintenance of the marble will make it last longer. This stone can easily get stained if not properly cleaned.

8. Outdoor mosaic tile

You can choose to make your outside surfaces very colorful with mosaic art. You can make the art using either glass, tile or stone. Before making the mosaics ensure that the surface on which you want to create the mosaic s are strong and dry.

9. Outdoor linoleum

Source

Linoleum is a material that is made of natural materials such as solidified linseed oil, pine rosin, wood flour, mineral fillers, and ground cork dust.

Linoleum flooring can be used on the outside surfaces since it is very durable and has good looks. More importantly, linoleum flooring is much less expensive when compared to other flooring materials. You can use this material for your pavements and other outside surfaces.

10. Outdoor granite

It is highly recommended to use granite for the outdoor kitchen tops. Granite is highly resistant to heat, stains, mold, and mildew.

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The best way to maintain your outdoor granite countertops is to clean them, provide adequate shade and also cover them during winters.

11. Outdoor laminate

Source

Most of the laminates are used for indoor flooring. However, you can still use it for outdoor flooring. Some laminate is weather-resistant and they can be used outside.

This kind of flooring is perfect for the sunroom where there is exposure to the outdoor conditions. Since this material is not suitable for high-temperature exposure, expansion gaps can, however, be used to control expansion and contraction.

12. Outdoor flagstone

Outdoor flagstone consists of sandstone, slate, and limestone. They are the perfect choice for patio flooring.

Flagstone is chosen for its high resistance to slip and also its durability. Flagstones are easily stained, therefore to maintain it you will need to seal it.

13. Outdoor brick

Paving bricks are the best materials to use for outside flooring. It is very simple to install paving bricks.

With the bricks, you can use them to build a brick path, a garden bench, brick edging, brick waterfall, birdbath and many other things outside your house.

14. Painted floor tiles

Source

15. Stone dragonfly

16. Brick patio tutorial

Source

Conclusion

You can make your home outdoor environment look appealing using any of the above ideas. There are so many tile types options that you can choose from.

Before choosing any of the tiles to use for the outdoor flooring or surfacing, you should consider the durability, strength, resistance to climatic conditions and also anti-slip resistance.

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Ruhend, aber nicht tot: Ein Leitfaden für die Rasenpflege im Winter

When it comes time for winter weather, your lawn is probably the first thing to show signs of stress. Healthy grass will go dormant during the winter, storing energy in the roots, so that it is ready to grow when Spring rolls around.

This often suits our needs in the winter as well. It’s often tempting to write off and ignore lawn care during the winter, when we have a whole list of other things to manage for the busy holiday season.

It’s true that your lawn won’t require nearly as much maintenance during the winter as the warmer months. However, completely neglecting your lawn in the winter can cause your grass to become diseased and patchy.

With a small amount of scheduled maintenance, you can take preventative measures that will keep your lawn safe during the winter. This will keep it from becoming overrun with weeds and holes.

Here’s how to treat your lawn right during the winter to make sure that your grass springs back strong in the new year.

1. Aerate the Lawn Before the First Seasonal Frost

Each location and climate will experience their first frost at a different time in the late fall or early winter. Keep an eye on the weather to remain aware of when your home will experience frost. Then set a date to aerate your lawn before this cooler weather strikes.

Aerating the lawn helps to relieve any compaction the grass might have built up during the growing season. It also allows more air to get down to the roots. This creates space in the earth for overseeding or dormant seeding.

2. Fertilize to Keep it Full of Nutrients for the Winter

Your grass may be dormant during the winter, but that doesn’t mean that it doesn’t need nutrients to maintain its root structure. When spring comes, the grass draws from those nutrients that were preserved in the roots. The fertilizer will also help to keep your lawn disease-free, and a healthier lawn will be less likely to become overrun by weeds.

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You need to fertilize before the ground freezes for the winter. You can do this at the same time that you aerate the lawn. Try not to miss this window of opportunity. If you fertilize when the ground is already frozen, the fertilizer will likely wash away and be wasted.

If you experience a thaw after an unexpected cold snap, you still have the chance to fertilize. Try to loosen the earth a little by raking, and make sure the fertilizer soaks down into the earth.

When it comes to fertilizing, your lawn needs three primary nutrients to remain healthy:

  • Nitrogen encourages dense leaf growth.
  • Phosphorus helps to strengthen the roots.
  • Potassium allows for good overall lawn health.

Most fertilizers will also contain micronutrients, including iron and zinc, among others.

Once you spread the fertilizer, water the lawn to wash it off the leaves and send the nutrients down into the roots.

3. Clear It Off

Keep your lawn clear of fallen leaves and other debris that piles up in the fall. This debris could suffocate the grass and make it grow back spotty. Wet leaves could also bring in disease, decay, and mold, breaking down your healthy grass.

If you have a thin cover of fallen leaves, you can use your mower to mulch them into smaller pieces. These will then naturally recycle themselves back into the grass.

Mowing in the Fall and Winter

As the weather begins to cool, continue mowing your lawn until the grass stops growing. In most climates, you will find yourself moving into the late fall.

For the last couple of times that you mow the grass, lower the height of the mower by a length or two. This will keep the longer grass strands from smothering the crowns during the winter. Additionally, tall lawn grasses could provide cover that invites vermin, such as mice and voles, to tunnel through the lawn.

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Aim to cut off the excess length, but don’t cut it so deep that you expose the crown of the plant. Remember that the leaves help to protect the plant, so mowing them down all the way will risk exposing them to harsh winter weather.

5. Overseed Grass in Warmer Climates

In warmer climates where the ground doesn’t freeze, it’s common to overseed the grass with a grass species that thrives in the cooler season, such as ryegrass. When overseeding, purchase grass suitable for cold weather. Most fescue grasses will work. It’s also important not to let the seeds dry out, so keep it moist and water when needed.

Overseeding isn’t an option in cooler, northern or higher elevation climates, where grass will go dormant through frosts and snows. In these colder climates, it’s best to simply maintain and care for the dormant grasses until it warms up again.

4. Avoid Stress on Dormant Grass

Remove unused lawn furniture and other items from the dormant grass, since these can suffocate the grass, preventing it from growing back into those spots come springtime.

This includes any toys or hobby crafts and large empty planters on the lawn. At the same time, clear out any standing water that could breed mosquitoes in the yard.

To care for the dormant grass, try not to walk on it too much. Foot traffic can weaken even strong, healthy grass.

One way to make sure the grass doesn’t attract unnecessary traffic is to keep driveways, sidewalks, and porches clear of snow and ice. This will make alternate paths through the frosty grass much less inviting. Also avoid having ice melt or rock salt fall onto the grass, as the salt can rob the grass of nutrients.

Identify Weeds and Spot Treat

If your grass goes dormant, it will likely become vulnerable to weeds. However, on the positive side, these weeds will be easy to spot, since they will remain green while your actual grass becomes yellow or beige.

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Spot treat the weeds when you see them pop up to keep them from spreading in the spring. Additionally, for lawns with a lot of weeds, you can use a pre-emergent herbicide to get rid of the weeds without damaging your new grass when it grows back.

Dormant Seeding

Once the dormant grass thaws in the winter, you can sow dormant seeding to get a head start on the spring regeneration. The lawn at this point might be muddy, brown, and patchy. Seeding into these muddy patches will give the dormant seed the chance to anchor into the ground. More freezing and thawing will also help to settle the seeds into the soil.

Make sure that the seeds make direct contact with bare soil. It helps if the soil is loose or raked before seeding. Then, once you have laid down the seeds, lightly rake the surface again to cover them.

Keep an Eye on the Weather

As the grass becomes dormant for the winter, begin to reduce the irrigation. For fully dormant water, stop irrigating, particularly when the temperatures drop into freezing.

Pay attention to whether your grass is snowy from the winter weather or just dry. Snow can actually protect your lawn from harsher aspects of the winter. The snow insulates the grass. Conversely, uncovered grass will lose moisture in very cold temperatures and dry out.

A little care for your grass in the fall and winter can make it much easier to cultivate some lush green grasses when the spring comes back around. Damaged grasses from the winter season, on the other hand, could lead to patchy and rotten grass that takes years to recover.

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Adromischus cristatus 'Crinkle-Leaf Plant': Wiki, Wachsen, Pflegen

The Adromischus cristatus, Crinkle-Leaf Plant, or Key Lime Pie is a popular plant for nurseries because of its green and purple flowers, its triangular pale green leaves, its long stems, and its slow growth cycle so that pruning isn’t as much of an issue.

It’s a low-growing type of plant with small blooms and leaves. It owes its popularity from its hardiness. As long as you take proper care of it, it should last you for many years to come.

Caring for Adromischus cristatus 'Crinkle-Leaf Plant' succulent

Quick Facts

The Crinkle-Leaf Plant grow up to 5 centimeters or 2 inches long and has up to 2.5 centimeters or 1 inch wide leaves that are covered in tiny cilia or hairs. This succulent with branches has an undulating margin at its tip.

The Key Lime Pie also features tubular, green-tipped flowers with reddish-white coloring that can blossom on up to a 20-centimeter or 8-inch stem (lengthwise). It also can be toxic to both animals and humans.

Planting

#1. When to plant?

Plant your Key Lime Pie when it’s not cold or not winter, so between Spring to Fall. Of course, it depends on the climate zone you’re in.

If the winters in your area are mild and doesn’t grow colder than 20° F or -6.7° C, then you can plant it in your outside planter’s box all-year round. When planting between December and February, make sure the temperature is 50° F or 10° C.

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#2. Where to plant?

If there are frosty winters where you live then it’s best to plant the Crinkle-Leaf Plant in a pot that’s placed indoors. This plant is not cold hardy at all.

When planting the Key Lime Pie in your garden, plant it where it can get 6 hours of sunlight daily. Place it in your window bay or anywhere with loads of sunlight if planting indoors.

#3. How to plant

You can plant the Crinkle-Leaf Plant by leaf, stem, or seeds. A single leaf is enough to get a pot or garden full of the succulent. Just place it against the side of the container in order to have the set to touch the compost.

As for seeds, make sure the temperature of the surroundings is warmer before planting the seed. Sow seed in soil that’s easy to drain. Don’t press the seeds—just sow them then lightly cover them with a thin layer of sand.

Care

#1. Soil

Use gritty, free-draining compost or pre-mixed cactus soil (sand mixed with soil) as the planting or transplanting soil for this plant. Its compactness enables it to grow easily without much maintenance or pruning on your part. It doesn’t require high humidity to survive and can thrive even in relatively dry settings.

#2. Light & Temperature

It propagates well in any place where there’s full to partial sunlight. Make sure it gets sunlight even when indoors. The recommended temperature for this succulent is 50° F or 10° C.

It works well in room temperature as well as slightly colder temperatures as long as there’s no frost. Its USDA hardiness zones are 9b to 10b. In other words, it can survive temperatures from 25 °F to 40 °F or from −3.9 °C to 4.4 °C.

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#3. Water & Humidity

Use the “soak and dry” method when it comes to watering this plant. Only water the plant when the soil is dry. Over-watering the plant will result in rotting or root rot to happen. During winter, water sparingly.

#4. Fertilizer

During spring and summer, use diluted liquid fertilizer. Don’t feed this succulent any fertilizer during winter. Just let it thrive on its own during autumn as well, using all the fertilizer you’ve fed it in the previous two seasons.

#5. Propagation

This is a species that grows effectively by stem cutting and planting, leaf planting, or by seeds. Some variants drop their leaves quite easily, but it’s a challenge to grow a large specimen from these leaves.

When planting by seeds, do so in warm temperatures or using a seed warmer and grow light. Germination happens several weeks longer than the stem cutting method, but this depends on where you live.

#6. Pruning

For the most part, there’s no need for pruning and grooming for this specific succulent. It’s practically bred like a Bonsai Tree with its smallness sans the constant pruning with your pruning shears. It can only grow 5 centimeters or 2 inches long and up to 2.5 centimeters or 1 inch wide.

Problems

Growing Problems & Diseases

Root rot is a real problem for this succulent. This happens when you over-water” it or water too much. you should wait for the soil to drain of completely and dry before watering this plant again.>

Pests

The most common pests for the Key Lime Pie are mealybugs and vine weevils. Use systemic insecticide to save the plant from being eaten to death by these insects. You can also use rubbing alcohol and rub a cotton swab on the plant to discourage the bugs from eating it.

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FAQs

#1. Where did the Crinkle-Leaf Plant come from?

The Crinkle-Leaf Plant is native to the Eastern Cape of South Africa. This explains why like many other South African succulents out there, the Adromischus cristatus is weak against frost and over-watering but strong against the summer and loads of sunlight. It can survive with occasional watering since it’s used to the heat but not so much against the extreme coldness of a snowy winter.

#2. What are the names that Crinkle-Leaf Plant known for?

Aside from being known as the Crinkle-Leaf Plant or its scientific name of Adromischus cristatus, it’s also called the Key Lime Pie and Cotyledon Cristata. This is because its leaves have a pale green and crinkly appearance, not unlike the ridges on the edge of the dessert key lime pie.

#3. How do you make the Crinkle-Leaf Plant blossom with flowers?

Springtime is when the plant has its blooms. However, it can be tricky to do the right balancing act of temperature conditions, soil, and sunlight to induce flowers to form. It’s a late bloomer that gets flowers whenever it receives more warmth during the wintertime. Its flowers are tube-shaped and small with no fragrance. They’re also colored white with hints of red.

Photos of Adromischus cristatus ‘Crinkle-Leaf Plant’

How to grow and care for Adromischus Cristatus 'Crankle-Leaf plant' or 'Key Lime Pie' succulent

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Erfahren Sie mehr über Adromischus Maculatus „Calico Hearts“

Adromischus maculatus, “Calico Hearts”, or “Chocolate Drop” is a grey-green” type of succulent>. Its appearance is that it has a flat, oval leaves with purple-colored spots all over them.

Beginners can learn how to plant and care of succulents using this specific plant. It propagates well in bright light or even indoors. It rarely blossoms indoors but outdoors it tends to produce tube-shaped, white blooms.

Learn More About Adromischus Maculatus 'Calico Hearts'

Quick Facts

Quick Facts about Adromischus Maculatus 'Calico Hearts'

Calico Hearts are succulents native to Africa that can propagate indoors because a sufficiently bright indoor light is enough for it to survive. If it’s given enough light, it can be grown indoors. This succulent can grow up to 20 centimeters or 8 inches wide and about just as tall. It’s best grown at a minimum temperature of -6.7° C or 20° F.

Planting

Adromischus Maculatus 'Calico Hearts' Planting

#1. When to plant

Plant the succulent in a container you can bring indoors if you live in a zone where it can get colder than -6.7° C or 20° F. It’s not cold-hardy and too much cold can kill it. It’s best planted during spring to fall. Plant in a garden that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight every day. You should also protect the plant from frost by planting it indoors or anywhere sunny.

#2. Where to plant

Plant it indoors or outdoors. As mentioned above, it should be kept indoors if your wintertime season temperatures drop to less than the aforementioned range. It’s a compact plant, so plant it on compact spaces like a sunny window ledge, the greenhouse’s top shelf, or a small pot by the window bay with a water drainage pan underneath.

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#3. How to plant

Calico Hearts plants should be planted by pot if the winters are especially cold in your area or by garden with loads of sunshine. Just dig just enough for the leaves to take root and plant.

As long as it’s placed where it gets 6 hours of sunlight or lots of indoor fluorescent light, it’s good to go. If you live in a tropical, sunny, or even sub-Saharan climate, the plant will thrive with hardiness against hot climates.

Care for Calico Hearts

Caring for Adromischus Maculatus 'Calico Hearts'

#1. Soil

It can grow in any gritty compost that’s free-draining. To ensure that you avoid over-watering the plant, you should employ the soak and dry method of watering the plant from time to time and avoiding watering them until the soil is soaked dry. Put the plant indoors or in a shed if it’s rainy in your area.

#2. Light & Temperature

Calico Hearts are all about sunlight or artificial indoor lighting. It’s partial to full sunlight. It’s also one of the best indoor plants because it thrives on semi-regular watering and incandescent or LED light just fine. It’s also a good outdoor plant for summary to tropical climates. It can also handle temperatures of up to -3.8° C or 25° F but it prefers anything above 10° C or 50° F.

#3. Water & Humidity

Water the plant sparingly and make sure the soil is completely dry before attempting to water the succulent again. This is known as the “soak and dry” method. It’s sensitive to overwatering, just like aloe vera or other succulents. The more you soak it the likelier its root will rot. It also doesn’t need high humidity and will survive under most household settings.

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#4. Fertilizer

Use the organic liquid variety of fertilizer on the Calico Hearts during the growth season. In other words, it should be given fertilizer during the beginning of spring until the summer season. It will boost the plant’s defense system as it thrives at fall and endures the cold temperatures of winter, of which it is weak against.

#5. Propagation

You can propagate the Calico Hearts by using its leaves. Just carefully plant every leaf into the soil for about an inch or so without damaging the tips of the succulent. Water immediately but don’t over-water. It’s Spring and Fall plant capable of growing up to 8 inches or 20 centimeters in height and width.

#6. Pruning

Cut the stem of the Calico Hearts within half an inch of the desired node or leaf. The cut must be done at a 45° angle with a sharp knife so that you can end up with the cleanest cut possible. Afterwards, remove up to a third of the leaf’s length as you prune the plant up to a more compact and manageable shape.

Problems

#1. Growing Problems & Diseases

Calico Hearts can suffer from root rot. This succulent is also quite fragile, so be careful when you touch it. Once odd bump or stray twist can snap the leaves in twain, much like an oregano plant. You should find the right spot for it to propagate then leave it alone.

#2. Pests

The most well-known pests for Calico Hearts are vine weevils and mealybugs. You can save the plant from its natural predators of pests by with a systemic insecticide. Just watch out from using any chemicals that could kill helpful insects like bees.

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FAQs

Frequent Answer Questions about Adromischus Maculatus 'Calico Hearts'

#1. Where did Calico Hearts come from?

Calico Hearts originated from South Africa, specifically in a place called Mpumalanga. It’s clear why it’s the kind of plant that is sensitive to overwatering. In its native South Africa, water is scarce and it can survive with little watering. It’s also sensitive to cold for obvious reasons (it’s a South African plant that’s used to heat and not acclimated to frost).

#2. How does the Calico Hearts plant fare during the different seasons?

As expected of a South African plant, Calico Hearts isn’t hardy to cold. It instead actively grows throughout spring and fall while it should be put indoors during winter. You should keep water off of the leaves in the wintertime as well. It thrives well during summer.

#3. Does the Calico Hearts plant have any known herbal medicinal value?

No. It can be toxic to humans and animals (pets) so please avoid eating it. It’s unlike oregano, which can have its essence or oils extracted in order to treat conditions from asthma to diabetes. Avoid trying to extract its oils for consumption.

#4. How can you take care of Calico Hearts in the winter?

If there’s snow and frost, put it indoors where there’s heat. It can survive during the winter as long as it’s cool and frost-free. Keep water off of its foliage during the season as well to prevent it from getting frosty and “frostbitten”.

Adromischus Maculatus 'Calico Hearts' Wiki, Growing, Care, Problems

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Viel Lärm um den Acanthocereus Tetragonus "Fairy Castle Cactus" 101

Acanthocereus tetragonus—once known instead as Cereus tetragonus but commonly known to laymen as the Fairy Castle Cactus—is a tall cactus of the columnar variety that’s native to the Lower Rio Grande Valley of the State of Texas as well as Southern Florida.

It can also be found in Northern South America, the Caribbean, Central America, and Mexico as well as the U.S. A healthy cactus is capable of growing hundreds of green branches.

Quick facts about Fairy Castle Cactus 

The Fairy Castle Cactus or Fairy Castle is a cactus that can be grown indoors as long as you have enough lighting fixtures inside or have bay windows to let the sunlight in.

With that said, it grows best outdoors with partial shade and partial sunshine rather than full sunshine or full shade. The miniature plant can get as tall as 6 feet or 1.8 meters. It’s not cold hardy and can only take Zone 10a temperatures.

Planting

#1. When to plant?

You should plant the Fairy Castle Cactus during the spring and fall. It actively grows during those seasons. It survives summer well enough since it’s a cactus.

However, it’s usually devastated by winter, especially in areas where the weather can reach temperatures way below 30° F or -1.1° C (which is around its minimum temperature limits).

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#2. Where to plant?

Plant it indoors if your area in the world receives frosty or icy winters, since those are death knells to this particular type of plant. Additionally, if you do decide to plant it outdoors, do so where it can get a daily dose of 6 hours of full sunlight or partial sunlight and partial shade. Keep it away from air conditioning or vents.

#3. How to plant?

Plant its seeds or stem cuttings indoors in a pot because it grows well indoors, making it the perfect plant for beginners to handle. Just avoid over-watering it but don’t forget to water it once that soil is completely dry. Just sow the seeds and put a light layer of sand on top. As for stem cuttings, just place the stem onto the soil without breaking the stem.

Care

#1. Soil

A bag of pre-mixed cactus soil (part loam and part sand) or gritty compost that can drain itself excellently is good enough to allow the Fairy Castle to thrive without worrying about over-watering or root rot. Efficient water drainage and letting the soil breathe and dry out is key.

#2. Light & Temperature

Its sunlight requirements range from partial to full sunlight. It’s quite hardy against hot climates with loads of sun. The temperature range that the Fairy Castle can survive in is for the USDA hardiness zones of 10a to 11b. In other words, it can take temperatures ranging from 25° F to 50° F or from −3.9° C to 10° C.

#3. How To Water For Fairy Castle Cactus & Humidity

Water” this cactus> like a typical succulent. Water it without flooding on gritty, free-draining compost or pre-mixed cactus soil.

It’s easiest to take care of the cactus during frost-free winter because you cut down the amount of water needed in this season in half. It doesn’t require high humidity a la tropical weather either.

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#4. Fertilizer

It grows during spring so the best time to fertilize it is during this season. Specifically look for a cactus fertilizer in order to get the best results. Feed the cactus in a monthly fashion. Alternatively, you can irrigate it with a diluted liquid fertilizer mix that’s about half-strength. Stop feeding it fertilizer during the winter season.

#5. Propagation

The cactus is propagated by seeds from its flowers or by cutting its stems and letting those grow into a new plant. It’s quite the sun-hardy plant that can grow hundreds of green branches like towers or turrets reaching up to 6 feet or 1.8 meters tall with the right non-frosty conditions.

#6. Pruning

Pruning won’t help because it’s unnecessary. However, once it develops rot, pruning can save your plant’s life. Use a sharp knife or clippers and cut at a 45° angle to make sure your cut is clean and the resulting stub can still heal.

Problems

#1. Growing Problems & Diseases

Like other succulents, when you over-water the Fairy Castle, it tends to develop root, stem, and leaf rot. It was designed to grow in the desert with little water. When you give it an over-abundance of water, it’s bad for it. Water it properly to prevent root rot and cut away the parts of it that are rotting.

#2. Pests

Brown spots could appear all over your Fairy Castle if it’s being eaten by scale or mealybugs. It could also be a fungal infection that’s slowly killing it on top of root rot that happens when you over-water it. Use neem oil and practice proper succulent watering habits to prevent these pests from attacking your plant.

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FAQs

#1. Why is Fairy Castle Cactus named as such?

The Fairy Castle Cactus gets its name from its columnar branches that clump together upwards vertically, like turrets of a miniature medieval castle or a castle fit for a tiny fairy king. Each stem has five sides with short spines or thorns growing along its ribs.

#2. When does the Fairy Castle Cactus bloom or get flowers

It takes about a decade for a Fairy Castle Cactus to produce flowers that are typically yellow or white in color. Therefore, it rarely blooms. When you buy this cactus and it has flowers it’s usually the hot-glued variety using fake yellow or pink flowers to make it more decorative.

#3. Why is my Fairy Castle all twisty?

Like with oregano, your Fairy Castle Cactus tends to grow and follow the sunlight. If part of it is hidden in the shade and another part of it is in full sunlight, it might twist its body towards the part with light in order to get maximum rays. To prevent this twisted appearance, prune and/or place your plant in direct or partial sun contact.

#4. Is the Fairy Castle Cactus toxic to humans and animals?

No, it’s not. It’s generally nontoxic to both humans and other animals. It’s unlike other” succulents> that have enough toxicity to make them dangerous to your pets when eaten. Then again, since it’s a cactus, eating it spines and all is a bad idea. Regardless, you shouldn’t eat it or consume its juices.

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Aloe Juvenna ‘Tiger Tooth Aloe’: Fakten, Wachstum, Pflege, Probleme

The Tiger Tooth Aloe is considered as one of the most attractive aloe variants because of its distinguishable white spots and spiky leaves which turn into red-brown color when it is happily stressed. But how do we take care of Aloe juvenna?

Quick Facts

Before getting to the technical, let us know more about the Tiger Tooth Aloe through these quick facts:

1. It is summer dormant.

This is quite expected for many succulent” variants> including the aloe family but the Aloe juvenna really goes dormant during summers. While all the other succulents have slow growth phase during summer, the Tooth Tiger really hibernates and stops growing during this season although it receives the right amount of water it requires. The ironic thing though is that, it is drought-tolerant.

2. It does not bloom often.

The Tiger Tooth does not bloom once a year. Sometimes, it does not even bloom at all. But when it does, it normally blooms during late summer and the whole of autumn.

3. It is a native of Kenya.

The country of Kenya is considered as the home country of the Aloe juvenna which is quite understandable because it loves the sun. It was discovered by two European botanists, Brandham and S. Carter that is why its official scientific name is Aloe juvenna Brandham and S. Carter.

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Planting

#1. When to plant?

The active growth phase of the Tiger Tooth is the whole of spring with slow-paced growth on the onset of autumn. It will go dormant in summer and will have a hard time surviving the winter when it gets too harsh because it is not cold-hardy nor cold-tolerant. As is the case, the best time to propagate the Tiger Tooth is during early spring.

#2. Where to plant?

The Tiger Tooth is considered as a sunny succulent and being a native of Kenya makes it just right for it to be planted in warm or dry areas/climates. Its minimum sunlight requirement is at least six hours every day so you need to think of a space in your greenery where it would get just that.

#3. How to plant

You may plant the juvenna using seeds sowed in sandy mix in terracotta pots. Aside from this, you can also plant Tiger Tooth using offsets from other juvennas. All you have to do is to let these offsets dry for two days and when it is completely dry, you can now lay them in sandy soil mixes.

Care

#1. Soil

The drench and dry method will only become successful if you use a fast draining soil mix. The best soil mix for this succulent is sandy mix.

#2. Light and temperature

As has been said, the juvenna needs at least six hours of sunlight a day with partial shade. As time progresses, or after it grows to three to four inches, the juvenna would have been acclimated to the sun and as such could now tolerate more sun. In terms of temperature, it can only tolerate up to -1.1 degrees Celsius which means that beyond that, it can wilt or die especially if it is grown outdoors.

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#3. Water and humidity

The Aloe juvenna also follows the logic of the higher the humidity level of the area, the more frequent will the watering intervals be and of course, the lower the humidity level, the less frequent shall the watering intervals occur. In the same way, the Aloe juvenna also follows the drench and dry method in which you should first make sure that the soil has completely dried out before the next watering commences to avoid overwatering.

#4. Fertilizer

Fertilizing the Tiger Tooth is an essential part in the propagation process. After repotting the Aloe juvenna and having removed all the dead roots, you will need to spray on a complete fertilizer which goes by labels of 8-8-8 or 10-10-10. Alongside fertilizing, it is also advisable that you also spray it with fungicide just to make sure that the newly propagated juvenna would not wilt due to pests.

#5. Propagation

Unlike other succulents, the aloe family cannot be propagated using leaves or stem cuttings but through offsets or also known as pups. These offsets are the small rosettes that grow out of the Aloe juvenna. To propagate, you need to carefully cut the pups from the stem and dry them for two days before planting them on a sandy mix.

#6. Pruning

The pruning process for the Tiger Tooth is quite connected to propagation because what you will prune out of the juvenna would be the pups. The pups make the pot crowded and become vulnerable to root rot because of uneven distribution of minerals. To prevent this, you must prune the plant by cutting the pups off which you can use to propagate another juvenna in another pot.

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Problems

#1. Growing Problems and Diseases

The common growing problem of the juvenna is root rot due to overwatering” and under-watering so it is advised that you follow strictly the drench dry method or simply making sure soil before can be watered again. root rotting will lead to fungal diseases cause wilting even death.>

#2. Aloe juvenna too tall

At maximum, the Aloe juvenna will have a height of 12 inches. Sometimes, it could grow taller than this but that is no longer recommended. As a matter of fact, at 12 inches, it is required for you to prune because of overcrowding which will not be good in the flow of minerals in the pot.

#3. Pests

The most common pests attacking the Tiger Tooth would be mealybugs” and aphids. its wide leaves rosettes are good habitats for these pests they could easily hide or camouflage within the leaves.>

FAQs

#1. Is the Tiger Tooth medicinal?

Unfortunately, there are no known medicinal uses for the Tiger Tooth. Aside from the Aloe perryi, Aloe ferox and Aloe vera, there are no known Aloes with medicinal uses.

#2. What is the main difference between the Aloe juvenna and the Aloe squarrosa?

It would be the leaves. The juvenna has leaves that curve outwards while the squarrosa has leaves that curve backwards.

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Echeveria ‘Perle von Nurnberg’: Fakten, Wachstum, Pflege, Probleme

The Echeveria perle von Nurnberg or more fondly called as just Nurnberg or Pearl of Nurnberg is considered as an evergreen” succulent>. Basically, it belongs to the family Echeveria but is actually a hybrid of two Echeveria variants: the Echeveria gibbiflora which is also known as Metalica and the Echeveria elegans/potosina.

It is one of the favorites of succulent lovers because of its striking tones of pink and green. But as a succulent favorite, what are the essentials in Echeveria perle von Nurnberg care?

Quick Facts

Before we go to the process, let us first get to know better the Pearl of Nurnberg. Here are some interesting quick facts that you may want to know about the Nurnberg.

  • It has an average rosette growth of 3 to 5 inches but when given constant full sunlight, it can expand to up to 6 inches.
  • It has thin, scattered white powders along the leaves which give it a wintry effect because they look like sprinkles of frost.
  • It is not winter-hardy but it is cold tolerant.
  • It is not drought-hardy but it can thrive in hot places.

Planting

#1. When to Plant

This succulent is winter-dormant. This means that you should never plant it during winter or when the climate starts getting cold. The best time to plant this succulent is during late summer and early spring.

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#2. Where to Plant

Under the USDA standards, the Nurnberg is generally hardy. This means that it is good for outdoor gardens at 25-40 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant it in sandy or loam soil in a strategic place where it could get six hours of full sunlight and shade.

#3. How to Plant

There are three simple processes to follow in planting the Nurnberg. First is to prepare the pot mix. You will find the soil component and combinations required for this succulent in the succeeding sections.

Second is to choose the mode of planting you want. It may be in the form of leaf cuttings, stem cuttings or rooting.

And third, you must choose a strategic place where it will get the needed amount of sun and then water it thrice a week until it grows to three inches. After it grows three inches, you may lessen the watering intervals.

Care

#1. Soil

The Nurnberg will thrive well in well-drained, not that compact and fast draining soil. There are available pot mixes like cactus pot mix for this type of soil but just to be sure, it is advised that you add extra pumice and lava rocks on the pot mix for better drainage. This variant shall also require you of transplanting it in another pot with new soil mix once a year.

#2. Light and Temperature

The Nurnberg, in general, does not require that much light. Put it in a place with full to partial shade to grow. But because it is also a versatile plant and you want to see its full beauty under full sun (because its faded pink edges will grow dark pink when it receives full sun), you can put it in full sun for six hours a day.

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As for temperature, it is not winter-hardy but it can tolerate cold temperatures ranging from 25-30 degrees Fahrenheit. The ideal temperature for the Nurnberg is not more than 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

#3. Water and Humidity

This Echeveria variant does not have a specific watering requirement because as have been previously mentioned, it is a bit drought-tolerant. However, it will require you to water them once every three days during its growth period.

Once some leaves sprout and its height at three inches, the frequency of its watering needs will lessen. More so, when you live in a place with high humidity, you might need to water them more frequently than what is generally required. Just remember that you need to be sure that the soil has completely dried before you water them again or else they will die of overwatering.

#4. Fertilizer

Like other succulents, the best time to pour fertilizer on the Nurnberg is during the growth phase, spring and late summer. As for the needed fertilizer, look for those well-balanced ones with 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 labels.

#5. Propagation

In this section, you must need to know that the Nurnberg is winter-dormant. This means that it is not advisable to propagate this Echeveria variant during winter. During spring and late summer when propagation is truly on the go, you may propagate the Nurnberg by leaf planting, beheading or through stem cuttings.

#6. Pruning

The Nurnberg is also a favorite succulent because it is easy to maintain. As a matter of fact, it does not need regular pruning. The only maintenance activity that it requires would be the removal of dead leaves , re-rooting once a year and clippings every three years.

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Growing Problems

#1. Growing Problems and Diseases

Its common problem would be fungal diseases. The onset of harmful fungi is due to overwatering when the roots and stem are soaked in too much water and when the soil is too compact for good drainage. You would know that it has acquired harmful fungi when you start seeing black spots in the stem or in the leaves or scattered white and green spots on the rosettes.

#2. Pests

If there is one thing the Nurnberg is vulnerable to, that would be mealy bugs. These pests most of the time take niche on dead leaves that is why removing these would be a necessary maintenance activity for this variant. It is also a favorite of weevil and aphids because of its wide rosettes.

FAQs

#1. Will the Nurnberg grow flowers? If yes, when?

Yes. The Nurnberg will grow flowers normally during spring. Its blooms are yellow; faint yellow when grown in shade and dark yellow when it receives full sunlight.

#2. What is its main difference from other Echeveria variants?

It is one of the very few Echeverias which can be grown in both tropical and cold places (as long as it does not drop beyond -1.2 degrees Celsius and rise up beyond 36 degrees Celsius).

Pictures of Echeveria ‘Perle von Nurnberg’

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Umtopfen von Sukkulenten: Wann und wie umtopfen von Sukkulenten?

The unique thing about succulents” is that they require low maintenance and are easy to propagate. repotting a major process in propagation but it also an important activity for succulents.>

When do we really have to repot? How much water does a newly potted succulent require? How do we repot succulents from cuttings? In this article we will talk about the when, why and how of repotting succulents. So if you are someone who is genuinely interested about these stuff, you are in for a treat.

When to repot succulents?

It is known among succulent growers that repotting must be done ideally, every after two years for one basic reason: they need fresh fertile soil with new sets of minerals that they can thrive on for them to grow better especially if it has acquired root rots and pest infestations through the years.

Specifically, repotting is best done when the growing season starts which is basically spring. Repotting during this season will give your newly transplanted succulent a leverage for survival.

In doing this process, you need the best soil mix for your transplanted succulents, one that offers good drainage. By best we mean, any soil mix that is labelled cactus mix.

The next thing to do is choose the appropriate pot which would be pots with drainage holes. After this, gently shake and squeeze the succulent out of its plastic pot, remove it when it has loosened and transfer it in its new pot with 3/4s cactus soil mix in it.

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To secure its place in the pot, it is advised that you add more soil on top of the surface. As for watering after repotting, we will tackle that in the next section.

When to water succulents after repotting?

There are two answers to this question but first we must know the questions. How long has it been since you last watered your succulent when it was still in its old pot? At the same time, is it necessary to water” succulents> right after repotting them?

Let us first take the first question. When the interval between the last time you watered your succulent in its old pot has just been two to five days before you went to repotting, it is recommended that you must not water it yet because there is a good chance that it still has enough water stored in its stem when you propagate the stem and the leaves when you repot leaf cuttings.

If the interval is more than nine days, you can water it as long as the new soil is completely dry. With these answers, we have also gotten the answer to the second question which is no because it is not always necessary to water succulents right after repotting them. Succulents need to adjust to their new soil too so it is advised that you water them two to five days after repotting.

Repotting succulents from cuttings

If you are repotting using cuttings, you need to master the art of gently cutting the parts to be propagated. First, you need to gently clip off the leaves or stems that are growing directly out of the succulents rosettes if your succulents have rosettes and the small twig-like stems or the small leaves leafing out from the stem if your succulents do not have rosettes.

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Make sure that the base of the leaf and stem remain intact even after you clip them out from the main plant.

The next thing to do is to let dry the cuttings for one to three days until the cuttings look calloused. After this, you need to grow them baby roots before you could engage into repotting.

In this case, you need to soak the cuttings in a jar with ¼ water. You will have to change the water in the jar after every two days until they grow small roots. As soon as they grow new roots, you are now ready to repot the cuttings in new pots and new soil mixes.

Repotting succulents in winter

Honestly, you can repot anytime even during the winter but because wintry days offer dormancy, you will not see that much growth after you repot succulent cuttings.

However, if you do so, there are no changes in the repotting process. You still need to clip off some cuttings when the stem gets too leggy or has too many tiny stems and leaves and then dry these cuttings off (although it would take more time during the winter), soak them in water and wait for the small roots to grow. After the roots grow, you will have to transplant them in a well-drained pot, in a fast draining soil.

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See also: How” to care for succulents in winter>

How to repot succulents into water

In other terms, repotting succulents in water is called water propagation and to be honest, we have been discussing this since the third section. So water propagation refers to that phase when you soak the cuttings in a jar of water and wait for the roots to grow.

It is not as simple as that though. To ensure that this will happen, the jar of water where the cuttings are soaked in must be placed under bright light. When the roots start appearing, change the water once every two days. When there are enough roots for repotting, transfer the water propagated cuttings in the pot.

References:

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Warum werden Zimmerpflanzenblätter braun? und wie zu beheben

At the most fundamental level, we invest on houseplants not only because of our sheer love for them but also because they add life to our homes.

The greens they provide add color to the home and most importantly, they regulate and boost the quality of oxygen and carbon dioxide that circulates inside the home. Because of these very essential things that they provide, brown leaves of houseplants could raise alarm because it means more than just one thing.

But do we really know what causes leaves to turn brown on a houseplant? Can they be revived? Are browning leaves caused by overwatering alone? If you are aching for the answers for these questions, then read on.

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What cause leaves to turn brown on a houseplant?

Brown leaves on a houseplant can be due to varied reasons so let us try to break them all down.

1. Extreme humidity levels

too dry or too moist environments can cause browning leaves. Plants adjust to the conditions of the home and so you need to balance out the humidity level of your home to prevent leaves from turning brown.

And how do you do this? You can start by putting all houseplants together in one space. According to MEREDITH, grouping plants together can raise the humidity level of the home.

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2. Wrong watering practices

Overwatering and under-watering also causes leaves to turn brown. Poor watering habits like shallow-watering or not waiting until the soil turns too dry before watering again are specific reasons which contribute to browning leaves.

For this, make sure that you follow the drench and dry method properly and ensure that your pots have drainage holes in them.

3. Sodium build-up

The sodium content of the soil may build-up when you are putting too much fertilizer or putting softened water in the soil. Follow the correct intervals for fertilizer to be poured.

Usually, you only put a generous amount at close intervals during the active growth phase which is during spring. As for softened water, make sure that you preferably used distilled water.

Can brown leaves turn green again?

Some plant problems cannot be solved by simply instating a better way to water because some houseplant problems are truly beyond saving. With this being said, leaves that have turned brown, unfortunately cannot turn green again.

Always remember that the parts of the plant are not isolated parts. Although they have separate maintaining strategies, the flow of nutrients and most essentially water, follow a process in which water is absorbed by the roots through the stems and other parts until it reaches the tips of leaves.

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Since leaf tips are the ones that turn brown immediately when the plant is under-watered, the gap between the reviving time and time of death for the brown leaves would be very minimal and so cannot be revived anymore.

How do you know if you are overwatering your plant?

There are many ways to know when you are overwatering your plants. In some instances, it would be the presence of fungal diseases for plants due to too much soil moist.

Second, it would be detected due to the presence of root rots and stem rots. And most importantly, when the leaves of the houseplant turn brown, that would be another manifestation that you are overwatering your plant.

Overwatering is a very serious problem for houseplant growers specifically those who are engaged in house planting or succulent growing. The case of this resides on the fact that it over watering will cause the infestation of insects and pests like mealybugs and aphids.

What nutrient deficiency causes brown leaves?

Brown leaves might just be one of the accompanying symptoms of nutrient deficiency among plants. The following are some of the deficient nutrients in plants which result to browning leaves:

1. Potassium: this nutrient is needed for better photosynthesis and water uptake and it can be washed away easily in sandy, chalky or clay soils.

2. Magnesium: overusing fertilizers high in potassium could be one of the causes of magnesium deficiency. It is also easily washed away in light soils.

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3. Manganese and iron: this is particularly true for acidic plants. These types of plants easily lose iron and manganese levels in alkaline soils.

How do you fix brown leaves on plants?

In consonance with the previously mentioned nutrient deficiencies, here are some of the ways that can fix or avoid browning leaves.

1. Adding potassium fertilizers: tomato feed, organic potassium sources like beet.

2. Add Epsom salt: at least 20grams preferably during the summer. Apply two to three times a week.

3. Apply iron and manganese treatments like Sequestrene in the soil and around the roots.

Aside from these, these are the first aid solutions that you can tap:

1. Coax them off of their pots by turning them on their side and pull of the leaves that are already brown.

2. Check for clogged drainage holes and fix them for better water drainage.

3. Trim off the brown tips from the leaves.

4. Check on the roots if too wet or too dry. Water according to need.