Garten Bewässerung

Olla-Bewässerungssystem: Ein wasserweiser Weg, um kleine Gärten zu bewässern

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Are you hoping to water” your garden> easily, quickly, and without spending a ton of money on an irrigation” system>?

You’ve come to the right place. I’m going to walk you through the olla irrigation system. This is an inexpensive system and can be fully DIY if that’s your cup of tea.

I’ll share with you how an olla irrigation system works, the benefits of it, and how you can turn this simple idea into a self-sustained masterpiece.

If this sounds like what you’ve been looking for, read on.
It could save you a great deal of time and money while properly caring for your

Here’s what you must know about having an olla irrigation system:

What is an Olla Irrigation System?

An olla irrigation system is when you bury an object underground which holds water. The object is made of a porous material such as clay, which allows the water to seep through the object.

This system eliminates any watering done by the gardener because all the water is underground and ready to seep out when the plants need it.

An olla (oy-yah) has been around for thousands of years and is still used by farmers around the world today.

Ollas are unglazed clay pots which fit into the ground
around your crops and hold water until needed. It’s a neat idea, inexpensive,
and can save many hours of manual labor.

How Does the System Work?

An olla irrigation system is an effective way to water your crops.

Ollas are shaped like large clay bottles and are buried
beneath the ground. They have a long neck which feeds into a large rounded

The long neck sticks out of the ground as an easy way for you to add water to the pot as needed. Be sure to place a rock or a clay cover over the top of the reservoir to avoid mosquitos from breeding in the water, soil from getting into the water, and also to prevent water from evaporating.

The pot is unglazed which allows water to seep through the

However, the water doesn’t ooze out of the container at any
time. The soil and plants around it will form a suction when they need more

If the soil is dry, water will seep from the underground reservoir. The roots of the crops will grow around the pot and be able to access this water as needed.

It eliminates a great deal of waste because the plants” and soil only draw what they need the water goes directly to them.>

However, remember to fill your underground reservoirs
(especially) ollas when they reach half empty. Don’t let them get any further

By allowing the water level to drop too low, you risk sediment building up on the sides of the reservoir. The system is based on the balance between the water volume in the olla, and the water in the soil surrounding it. Not having sufficient water inside will upset the balance, preventing water from seeping out and making the system ineffective.

The Right Garden for This System

Will an olla irrigation system work well for any garden? This style of irrigation does work best in specific garden set-ups. Here’s what you must know before choosing this system:

1. Types of Gardens

Ollas can irrigate with space with a radius of approximately 18 inches. It could be more or less depending upon the size of the olla.

Therefore, it’s best to stick with smaller garden settings if choosing this irrigation system. If you have a small” garden>, a” square foot garden>, raised” beds>, or container” garden>, this would be an excellent option for you.

2. Types of plants

The ideal plants to use with this system is perennials.” especially for your larger sizes ollas placing them correctly takes a fair amount of work. once plants have established their roots around the this little eco-system provides long-term benefit plants.>

Digging up and relocating ollas each year for your annual garden is something to be avoided.

3. Creating Ollas

If you don’t have an olla and aren’t the best at creating your own pottery, you might be interested in making your own DIY ollas from other upcycled materials.

For watering single plants, you can use empty water bottles or pop bottles. If you have a larger area you’d like to cover, you could use buckets,” totes cat litter containers or barrels. make sure each item has a tight-fitting lid.>

You must poke holes in the lids of the bottles for them to
work or poke holes in the sides of the larger containers for the water to seep

Helpful Hints

This style of irrigation system is straight-forward. You put
the reservoir in the ground, the water seeps out of the container, and your
crops get watered.

However, there are a few extra tips which can make the
process even smoother. Here’s what you should know:

1. Choose the Right Color

If you’re using DIY ollas created from upcycled materials, it’s important to choose the right color container.

When watering single plants, bottles are the best fit. If
you don’t get the entire bottle beneath the ground, you leave room for algae to
form in dark colored bottles. Go with clear bottles because when the sun hits
the exposed area of the bottle, it’ll kill off any unwanted algae which may try
to form.

This will keep your water crystal clear and your bottle unclogged. By doing this, your crops will get water as needed effectively.

2. Make It a Chain System

Having multiple ollas in the ground will make your life much easier when watering your garden. Yet, you can take it a step further to make things even easier.

You can collect” rainwater> in a barrel” at the head of your garden. from there attach a drip irrigation system and let emitters fit directly into olla.>

The water from the rain barrel will continuously fill the ollas which eliminate all work you must do. The garden will water itself, the ollas will refill themselves, and the rainwater will take care of the source.

Benefits of an Olla Irrigation System


The only drawback to this style of system is you would have to have many large ollas for it to work for large planting areas, but there are many benefits which are worth discussing. Here’s the upside to an olla irrigation system:

1. Saves Resources

When watering with this style of system, the olla only emits the amount of water your crops need. The water also goes directly to the root of the plants.

There is very little, if any, waste associated with this
method of watering. If you’re interested in saving resources, this method will
have you covered.

2. Prevents Overwatering and Runoff

The water balance and soil moisture tension determine how much water is used.

Therefore, you don’t need to worry about overwatering your
plants anymore. Plus, there’s no concern of heavy watering and runoff washing
away the nutrients in your soil.

3. Less Expensive Than Other Systems

I love systems which have a DIY option because this equates to money saved. If you’re working on a budget, this style of irrigation system could be for you.

You can create ollas yourself, you can create the automatic refilling system yourself, and harvesting rainwater is free.

4. Take the Work Out of It

Are you someone who loves to garden, but you have a
difficult time doing all the labor-intensive tasks which come along with

This method of watering your garden takes a great deal of the work out of it. I love this about this irrigation system because it makes gardening an option for practically everyone.

An added bonus is that you can even take a well-deserved vacation” and know that your plants will be watered.>

You now know what an olla irrigation system is. There are many benefits to this style of watering.

Plus, it’s easy and inexpensive to set-up and utilize. Hopefully, this will give you new ideas and less watering chores for your garden.

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Garten Bewässerung

Wie man die Oberflächenbewässerung für den großen und den kleinen Gärtner zum Laufen bringt


It’s a wonderful activity for your health, can help you eat” better on a budget>,
and adds great beauty to your property without spending a fortune.

Yet, caring” for a garden> can become complicated. If you have a sizeable garden” layout>, you may wonder how you should go about getting everything watered” efficiently>.

Irrigation” systems> can make the gardener’s life much easier, but do you worry about the cost of such an investment?

I’m going to share with you the oldest irrigation system in
the world. It’s easy, efficient, and inexpensive to install (in most cases.)

Let’s explore surface irrigation:

What Is Surface Irrigation?

If you’ve ever seen someone grow” rice>, you’ve probably seen a surface irrigation system, which is where water is dammed up outside of a field, but when the time is right, a geared system opens and allows the water to flow freely through the crops.

Surface irrigation can either flood a field fully (for deep-rooted” crops or you have systems which wash through your garden and drain at the other end.>

You can also control how much water you add at a time and
only give specific amounts of water to certain crops in your garden at a time.

Though it may seem this is a watering system with little
control at first glance, you can control mass amounts of water better than you
might initially assume you could.

Surface irrigation is one of the oldest irrigation techniques in the world and is still used the most out of all irrigation techniques across the globe.

This is a tried and true method which could work for a
variety of people in different growing situations and conditions.

Types of Surface Irrigation Systems

There are different surface irrigation systems. Understanding each one will help you figure out which option is the right one for you:

1. Open Systems

An open system consists of multiple channels dug throughout your garden or farming area. This is where the water will flow through when the water source has been opened.

Open systems are less expensive to install and require less maintenance but can cause the land to deteriorate over time.

2. Closed Systems

Closed systems are the more modern version of a surface
irrigation system. There are pipes placed underground and water runs through

Though they do require more upfront costs and are more complex to build and operate, they keep your land in better shape over the years.

3. Flooding

Of the two systems mentioned above, flooding is an option
for an open system. If the land is sloped and the water source is above the
land, the dam can be opened, and the land can be flooded in no time flat.

As mentioned above, this works best for deep-rooted crops and is also used in areas which suffer from drought.

4. Border Irrigation

Border irrigation can be an option for an open or closed
system. This option doesn’t flood your growing area.

Instead, water is added at one end of the system and flows
out the other end. You can have pipes lead the water to the straight channels.

5. Furrow Irrigation

Furrow irrigation is a network of channels. You can either
open your water resource or pump it through pipes to the channels.

Once the water enters the channels, it flows through in a
zig zag pattern. You can control how much water is added and which plants get
the bulk of it with this style of system.

How Does Surface Irrigation Work?

surface irrigation system grate

Surface irrigation is a simple system for watering your
crops. There must be a water source near the garden or farming area.

In some cultures, an animal will turn gears which open the dam to allow the water to flow through the surface irrigation system.

However, in more modern societies, electric pumps are used to pump the water out of the dam through pipes.

Once the water is in the pipes, gravity will help the water
flow to the growing area below. As the water flows through the pipes, it will
flow into the channels and water the crops.

When finished, depending upon the system of your choice, the water will either flow out the other end of the garden or remain standing until the soil can absorb the water.

Your soil will play a huge role in how much water will make
it to your crops. If your soil can’t absorb the water, you will have more
runoff than efficient watering taking place.

It will also depend upon the slope in the planting area, how
rocky your soil is, and the shape of the design of your system.

You must have fertile and well-draining soil for this
watering system to work as efficiently as possible.

Pros and Cons of Surface Irrigation

Surface Irrigation

Surface irrigation has its great points and has a few
drawbacks as well. Here’s what you must know to make an informed decision as to
whether surface irrigation will work for you:

The Pros

  • Surface irrigation is cost-effective (in most cases) because you dig channels and construct a damming structure with basic materials. It will require manual labor, but it doesn’t require a lot of funds to make this system work.
  • Gravity does most of the work for you when watering using a surface irrigation system. This makes the job easier.
  • Weather doesn’t impact the effectiveness of this system. If the wind is blowing, the water will still flow where it’s supposed to go.
  • If you live in an area where drought” is a huge burden surface irrigation can allow you to water less and still maintain healthy crops.>
  • You can water less frequently when using this technique.

The Drawbacks

  • Your soil” is in control. if it isn well-draining your crops will become waterlogged and rot.>

How to Apply Surface Irrigation to the Smaller Garden

You may be reading this article and mutter the words, “This is great for large farms, but I’m a small gardener. How does this apply to me?

I wondered this initially because let’s be honest, surface
irrigation makes watering easy for the larger farmer, and I wanted in on it for
my smaller gardens.

Thankfully, you can adapt this system for smaller gardens as well. If your garden is near a pond, this would work well.

However, if you don’t have a natural water source on your
property, collect%0Arainwater.” from there run a system of pvc pipes with holes throughout your garden.>

Be sure to dig channels between the rows of your garden. Allow
the water to run through the PVC pipes, into the channels, and water your
garden heavily.

This would be an easy and inexpensive option for adapting
this method of irrigation to a smaller scale.

You now have a solid overview of what a surface irrigation system is, the different options within the system, how this style of irrigation works, the ups and downs with this style of system, and how to make surface irrigation work on a smaller scale.

Use this information to decide if this style of irrigation will work for your set-up and enjoy a less labor-intensive method to water” your garden>.

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Garten Bewässerung

9 Bewässerungssystemoptionen für müheloses Gießen in Ihrem Garten

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If you have been trudging around your homestead for any amount of time with a bucket or hosepipe, you would at some time have considered a better solution – something like an irrigation system.

By first understanding the full gamut of irrigation systems, it will help you decide which is right for you and then help you focus your research.

Irrigation systems can be difficult to discern. There are main categories which branch off into header categories, and by digging a little further, you find the subcategories of irrigation systems (which is what most people are interested in.)

Some systems are great for small gardens, while others work best for large commercial agriculture set-ups.

I’m going to walk you through each type of irrigation system to give you a better understanding and hopefully help you make a better-educated decision before investing in an irrigation system for your homestead.

Two Types of Irrigation Systems

All irrigation systems fall into one of two categories: low
flow or high flow irrigation. Low flow irrigation systems are when water is
slowly dripped into or on top of the soil of your garden.

If you choose a high flow system, this is when water is
applied at a faster pace with much more water pressure.

Which system to choose will have more to do with your
preference than anything. If you’re watering large areas of land, a high flow
irrigation system may be your better bet because you can water more, faster.

If you’re working with smaller areas, interested in using rainwater” to your plants>, or if you’re interested in conserving” water>, a low flow would be your best option.

Irrigation System Specifics

Once you understand the two types of irrigation systems, it’s essential to understand a few other ‘umbrella’ terms.

They’re terms used to describe multiple irrigation systems.
By understanding these terms, it can help you further narrow down what you may
be looking for when choosing an irrigation system.

1. Subsurface Irrigation

Subsurface irrigation is when the irrigation system is
buried beneath the soil. The water is applied directly to the roots of the

We will discuss subsurface irrigation options more in-depth in the next section, but a few examples of subsurface irrigation are a soaker hose set-up or drip irrigation. These are low flow options of irrigation.

2. Localized Irrigation

Localized irrigation is when water is pushed through pipes
to reach the plants. It’s usually above the surface but waters the plants
without getting the foliage wet.

This is a good option because if the foliage of the plants remains dry, there’s less chance for mold and other diseases to form. Drip irrigation is another example of this style of irrigation system.

Common Irrigation Systems

You now know some of the broad categories and terms for irrigation systems. Let’s get down to the nitty-gritty to figure out which irrigation systems are available to suit your needs:

1. Soaker Hoses

Soaker hoses are hoses which have multiple holes placed in
them from tip to tip. The water seeps through the holes in the hose to moisten
the soil.

You can bury the hoses or leave them on top of the ground. By placing them underground you’re allowing water to reach the roots directly. A timer” can be added to your water source make watering even easier.>

2. Drip Irrigation

Drip irrigation is also known as a trickle irrigation
system. The water slowly drips from the hose.

This gives small amounts of water over time but keeps your plants properly watered without using mass amounts of water at one time. This is a great irrigation system option for vertical” gardens>.

3. Spray Irrigation

Spray irrigation is more commonly known as a sprinkler
system. You can choose%0Asprinklers” which will make a full or half circle. they also have sprinklers pop-up out of the ground during watering times and go back down when finished.>

Sprinkler irrigation systems use more water and do best when used on flat ground. They’re a great option if you have a larger” garden> to water and don’t want to spend hours on end watering it by hand.

4. Rotor Systems

Sprinkler irrigation system

Rotor systems are a great option if you’re trying to water a more extensive garden. We grow multiple large gardens each year.

I use a mixture of sprinkler irrigation and rotor irrigation because it allows me to water the gardens quickly. Rotor irrigation systems have rotating heads which spray water across large distances.

5. Surface Irrigation

Surface irrigation is one of the oldest irrigation styles in
the history of agriculture. It uses the slope of the land to water. You’ll dig
out tunnels where water can flood through and moisten your crops naturally.

You can use rainwater” in this style of irrigation but you must be careful not to flood your crops the process. plus have land which has proper slope for work.>

6. Buried Reservoirs

If you prefer to use an irrigation system which requires little maintenance and doesn’t require you to turn the water on or off for the watering to take place, this could be your irrigation preference.

With this method,” vessels are buried underground. you can use aria-label=”(opens in a new tab)” target=”_blank” water jugs or even cat litter containers with holes poked in it. if the vessel isn clay must poke for to seep through. keeps ground moist and should be refilled when has been absorbed into soil.>

7. Center Pivot Irrigation

If you’re working with large amounts of land which must be
watered, you may want a commercial style irrigation system.

Center pivot irrigation is a set of large sprinklers which
move on a large tower with wheels. It’s best for flat land, but the towers roll
along and water the crops in the process.

8. Lateral Move Irrigation

Lateral move irrigation is another irrigation system which works best for big farm settings. It’s like the center pivot irrigation system in the way it works.

It’s a set of sprinklers which move across the field on wheels. However, it requires manual labor because the machine runs on water hoses. When it reaches the length of one set of water hoses, it must be manually connected to the next set.

9. Manual Irrigation

watering can as an irrigation system

I doubt you’re looking for a manual irrigation option if
you’re considering installing an irrigation system. Yet, this must be mentioned
to give you every option for an irrigation set-up around your garden or farm.

Manual irrigation is watering everything by hand with a
watering can or hose. It’s going to be your cheapest option but will require
much more manual labor.

There you have it! You now know about the two main categories of irrigation systems, some ‘umbrella terms’ for irrigation systems, and have nine different options for irrigation systems to use around your property.

Hopefully this will help you to make a more informed
decision as to which set-up would work best for your gardening situation.
Though irrigation systems frequently require labor and funds to get started,
they can make your life much easier when growing crops.

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8 Bester Unkrautbrenner, um schnell einen unkrautigen Garten zu zähmen

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A weed burner is a gardener’s best friend. Just like other gardening taming tools like a string trimmer, a weed burner or weed burner torch makes it incredibly easy to remove weeds that destroy your plants and spoil the look of your beautiful lawn and garden.

Popular with home gardeners and professional landscapers, a weed burner is a clean, effective, efficient and affordable way to control weeds. Safe for you and the environment, this gas-powered tool produces a powerful flame that quickly burns away weeds, which means you do not have to use harmful toxic chemicals that can leach into your irrigation system.

Another benefit of using a weed burner is that you do not have to dig out the weeds, which means no back or knee strain.

The 8 Best Weed Burners

  1. JJ George Weed Burner
  2. Red Dragon VT 2-23 C Weed Dragon Propane Torch Kit
  3. Mag-Torch Weed Burner (Our Pick)
  4. Houseables Weed Burner
  5. IGNIGHTER Weed Burner Torch
  6. Hot Max Big Max Weed Burner
  7. BISupply Self-Igniting Weed Burner
  8. Bernzomatic Self-Igniting Weed Burner

Our Top Pick for the Best Weed Burner

Mag-Torch Weed Burner

Our top pick for the best weed burner is the MagTorch Weed Burner.

We highly recommend the MagTorch Weed Burner for any type of weed burning tasks around your home. Since the 1970s, Magna Industries Inc has been the top choice for professional gardeners.

Delivering an unmatched powerful performance, the reliable MagTorch will obliterate any tough weeds that refuse to budge from your garden, lawn, or driveway.

Check the price on Amazon ›

How Does a Weed Burner Work?

The reason why a weed burner is so effective is that it uses a 2-stage attack on the weeds that grow in your garden, lawn, along pathways, and driveways. Firstly, the extremely hot flame burns the weed away on the surface. Secondly, the heat destroys the weed’s internal cell structure. This efficient modus operandi stops the weed in its tracks so that it does not grow back again.

Using a weed burner is very easy. Just attach a small propane canister or a barbecue-style gas bottle to the weed burner. Squeeze the trigger-start ignition or control valve and the weed burner will fire up. You are now ready to blast the weeds and watch them shrivel up and die like magic.

How to Choose the Best Weed Burner

BTU Power

Your choice of weed burner will depend on the size of your garden and the type of weeds or noxious plants that are growing around your property. The power capacity of a weed burner is determined by its BTU’s and whether it is designed for use with a small 14 or 16-ounce propane gas cylinder or a 20 lb gas bottle.

Light-medium duty weed burners that produce 20,000 BTU’s are designed for use with a small gas canister, like the Houseables Weed Burner – a great tool for most general weeding tasks. A light-duty weed burner is ideal for a newbie torch-wielding user.

Heavy-duty weed burners that produce 100,000 BTU’s or even 500,000 BTU’s like the Mag-Torch MT5500 500,000 BTU Weed Burner are very versatile.

You can use a heavy-duty weed burner for small tasks and tough gardening tasks such as burning stubborn weeds or cleaning brush on a large property. As these types of weed burners can be hard to control, they are not suited for newbie weed burner users.

Length of the Wand

The length of the wand will make all the difference to how you use the weed burner, especially if you have to target weeds in a hard-to-reach area. A weed burner that has a longer extended reach like the IGNIGHTER Weed Burner Torch will give you total freedom of movement.

Self-igniting Design

One of the great features of many weed burners is a self-igniting mechanism. A self-igniting mechanism allows you to fire up the torch with minimal effort and in complete safety.

Adjustable Flame Control

Most weed burners have a built-in valve that helps you to quickly adjust the flame to suit a small or larger task. You could use a pilot flame for targeting a few weeds that have sprung up amongst the pavers in your courtyard. Or churn out a full force flame if you need to burn away brush or extra stubborn weeds.

Task Versatility

One of the amazing functions of a weed burner is its task versatility. As well as burning weeds, this multipurpose outdoor tool can accomplish other tasks. Lighting charcoal on your barbecue, igniting a fire pit or campfire. Melting ice on your driveway or even stripping paint off the road.

Safe Operation

Even though the weed burner’s flame control valve allows you to quickly turn the flame off, you need to adhere to these important safety rules:

  • Wear protective eyewear and gloves.
  • Make sure that you do not use the weed burner in windy weather.
  • Do not burn large amounts of bushes in dry conditions.
  • Just in case your weed burning tasks get out of hand, make sure you have a fire extinguisher close-by for any emergencies.

Best Weed Burner Reviews

1. JJ George Weed Burner

JJ George Weed Burner

If you have a small garden that is overrun with pesky weeds, the JJ George Weed Burner is powerful, portable, and easy to use.

A great alternative to using toxic chemicals to kill weeds, the JJ George weed burner connects to a 14-ounce propane canister. It is user-friendly, with an ergonomic handle and a lightweight metal design.

As it has an extended arm of 32-inches, you can kill weeds from a comfortable standing position. So there is no need to bend or crouch down as you transform your garden into a weed-free sanctuary. You can even use this versatile and portable weed burner to light charcoal on your barbecue or a campfire.

Simple to use, there is no sparker or external lighter required as the weed torch is self-igniting. The flame valve allows you to adjust the flame from a pilot flame to a large flame that shoots out of the high-quality burner head. Very economical, the torch gives you up to an hour of weed burning time on a single propane canister.

JJ George offers a 100% money-back guarantee on the weed burner.


  • High quality
  • Great value for money
  • Affordable price
  • Ideal for small gardening tasks
  • Can be used to light a barbecue or a campfire
  • Sturdy metal design
  • Easy to use
  • Very economical and burns for an hour on a single 14-ounce propane canister
  • Self-igniting – no sparker or external lighter required
  • Adjustable flame valve
  • Ergonomic handle
  • Lightweight and portable
  • Extra-long 32-inch length100% money-back guarantee


  • Not powerful enough for a large area of weeds
  • Can be hard to keep the flame lit for along time

Check the price on Amazon ›

2. Red Dragon VT 2-23 C Weed Dragon Propane Torch Kit

Red Dragon Weed Dragon VT 2-23 C Weed Burner

Manufactured in the USA, the Red Dragon Weed Dragon is a fast and effective weed burning tool for tough gardening tasks.

Designed for home use or professional landscapers, the 100,000 BTU weed burner has plenty of weed burning power and generates an amazingly hot 2,000 degrees-Fahrenheit flame.

Instead of having to mess around with dangerous toxic chemicals, the CSA-certified Weed Dragon will help you to kill weeds safely. The VT 2-23 comes fully assembled and ready to work. All you have to do it attach it to a 20lb gas bottle and its weeding killing power can last up to 3-4 hours depending on the size of your garden. It also comes with a hand-tightening tank fitting and the solid-brass squeeze valve allows you to change the power of the flame to suit your weeding tasks.

Reaching every corner of your garden is quite easy as the Weed Dragon has a lightweight 23-inch handle and a 10-foot gas hose.


  • High quality
  • Great value for money
  • Good price
  • Made in the USA
  • Designed for home use and professional landscapers
  • Powerful 100,000 BTU’s
  • 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit flame
  • Fully assembled
  • Quickly hooks up to any refillable 20lb propane tank
  • Can last up to 3-4 hours
  • Comes with a hand-tighten tank fitting
  • Solid-brass squeeze adjustable flame valve
  • Lightweight handle
  • 10-foot gas hose


  • The wand is not overly long
  • The adjustment valve is in an awkward location at the top of the handle

Check the price on Amazon ›

3. Mag-Torch Weed Burner

Mag-Torch Weed Burner

Whether you have a large garden or you are a professional landscaper, the powerful Mag-Torch Weed Burner is perfect for you.

The high-output 500,000 BTU Mag-Torch has loads of flame-throwing power, which makes it a must-have tool for any gardening enthusiast. You can use this weed burner for small or large weed burning jobs or other outdoor maintenance projects such as melting ice, roofing tasks, stripping paint, or burning asphalt.

The solid brass valve allows you to adjust the power of the flame to suit your tasks. Tame the flame down to a pilot flame for small tasks and ramp up the torch to full-flame to tackle tough tasks.

The CSA-certified Mag-Torch comes with a spark lighter for easy and safe ignition every time. Its main feature is the extra-long 61-inch hose that can be connected to any POL 20lb gas bottle.

With a lightweight design and a comfortable handle, this weed burner is easy to hold and control as you wield its flame and kill those nasty weeds.


  • High quality
  • Great value for money
  • Very affordable price
  • High-output design
  • Extremely powerful 500,000 BTU torch
  • Very effective
  • Spark Lighter for easy and safe ignition
  • Adjustable pilot flame and full-flame
  • Highly versatile
  • Can be used for weeding, brush control, ice melting, asphalt, and roofing
  • Attaches to a 20lbs POL barbecue-style gas tank
  • Extra-long 61-inch hose
  • CSA certified
  • Lightweight


  • The stock hose is not very durable
  • Might be too powerful for a newbie user
  • Lack of instructions in the box

Check the price on Amazon ›

4. Houseables Weed Burner

Houseables Weed Burner

If you are fed up with having to remove weeds by hand, let the Houseables Weed Burner do all the hard work for you.

The 20,000 BTU weed burner is a very good tool for removing weeds from a small to medium-sized garden. Extremely versatile, this weed burner can be used to remove the nastiest of weeds such as dandelions, crabgrass, ground ivy, chickweed, ragwort, broadleaf plantain, and thistles. You can even use the torch to ignite a grill or campfire.

Excellent user-friendly features include a quick-start trigger that produces a large flame and a self-igniting mechanism for effortless lighting. The solid brass valve allows you to adjust the flame size or turn the flame off quickly.

Featuring an ergonomic design, the weed burner torch is lightweight and its slip-resistant foam handle offers you a comfortable grip. For maximum control, the 36-inch long handle allows for an extended reach, so you do not have to worry about bending or crouching down as you kill weeds. As the weed burner is designed for use with a propane or MAPP gas cylinder, it is very easy to carry around your garden.

Storing the weed burner is very easy as it has a slim profile, so once it cools off, you can prop the tool up in the corner of your gardening shed.


  • Very good quality
  • Very good value for money
  • Affordable price
  • Ideal for a wide range of weeds
  • Quick-start trigger
  • Self-igniting mechanism
  • Brass adjustable flame valve
  • Lightweight and portable
  • Ergonomic slip-resistant foam handle
  • Extended 34-inch reach
  • Powered completely by propane or MAPP gas cylinder
  • Easy to store slim profile


  • Not designed for heavy weeds, dry plants, plastic, or wood edging

Check the price on Amazon ›

5. IGNIGHTER Weed Burner Torch

The highly-efficient IGNIGHTER Weed Burner Torch is the ideal gardening tool for controlling stubborn weeds around your property.

Instead of using nasty poisons to kill weeds, the IGNIGHTER weed burner torch offers you a convenient and safe approach to weed control.

Durable and powerful, this weed burner has a sturdy all-metal design. It is compatible with a small propane or MAPP gas canister and produces a 20,000 BTU flame that quickly burns up weeds that are growing on your lawn, garden, or along a pathway. You can even use the weed burner to light up your fire pit or de-ice your driveway.

Quick and easy to use, the weed burner has a built-in push self-igniting Piezo mechanism, so all you have to do is squeeze the trigger and the flame will leap into action. You can regulate the intensity of the flame with the solid brass control knob. As it has a low-heat output, you will save on gas usage.

Featuring a superior user-friendly design, the weed burner is ultra-lightweight and the narrow torch head allows for precise burning and effectively treats smaller areas. There is no need to bend or crouch over as the weed burner has an extended 35-inch long reach. To eliminate hand fatigue, the ergonomic non-slip foam handle grip is very comfortable to hold.


  • High quality
  • Great value for money
  • Very affordable price
  • All-metal design
  • Powerful 20,000 BTU flame
  • Compatible with a propane or MAPP gas canister
  • Can also be used to light a fire pit and de-ice a driveway
  • Built-in push-button Piezo igniter
  • Solid brass control knob
  • Adjustable flame control
  • Low heat output
  • Superior user-friendly design
  • Narrow torch head for safe and precise burning
  • Ultralightweight and portable
  • Extended 35-inch long reach
  • Ergonomic non-slip grip foam handle


  • Not ideal for heavy-duty tasks

Check the price on Amazon ›

6. Hot Max Big Max Weed Burner

Do you have a large garden or a farm, or do you work as a professional landscaper or building contractor? Invest in the ultrapowerful Hot Max Big Max Weed Burner.

Perfect for home use and industrial applications, any heavy-duty weed burning tasks will be finished super fast when you use the multifunctional Big Max weed burner. This all-metal weed burning dynamo produces an ultra-powerful 500,000 BTU flame that burns away stubborn weeds or brush. It can also be used to melt snow or ice that is blocking your driveway, pre-heat metals for welding, melt tar or asphalt and paint removal tasks.

You do not have to worry about using any toxic chemicals as the Big Max connects to a 20lb gas bottle. As the weed burner comes with a long 10-foot UL/CSA listed 350 PSI gas hose, it is quite easy to target weeds anywhere around your garden.

The POL safety valve prevents excess propane gas flow. A single flint striker helps you to light the touch quickly. The solid brass adjustable flame valve allows for complete control over the flame. You will also save on gas usage as the burner has an idle boost/fuel saver valve.

Its ergonomic design includes an ergonomic molded handle and an extended reach design, which means you can target weeds in hard-to-reach spots from a comfortable standing position.

Hot Max offers a 2-year limited warranty on the weed burner.


  • High quality
  • Excellent value for money
  • Affordable price
  • Perfect for home use, industrial and construction
  • Ideal for tough weeds
  • Can be used for melting snow or ice, pre-heat metals for welding, melt tar or asphalt and paint removal tasks
  • All-metal design
  • Ultra-powerful 500,000 BTU propane torch
  • Can be quickly attached to a 20lb gas tank
  • Long 10-foot UL/CSA listed 350 PSI gas hose POL safety valve
  • Solid brass flame adjustable valve
  • Idle boost/fuel saver valve
  • Ergonomic molded handle
  • Extended reach
  • 2-year limited warranty


Check the price on Amazon ›

7. BISupply Self-Igniting Weed Burner

Fed up with pesky weeds taking over your garden? The BISupply Self-Igniting Weed Burner will help you kill weeds efficiently and effortlessly.

Powerful and versatile, the 20,000 BTU weed burner is not only designed for weed control in a small garden but it can also be used to melt ice, ignite a grill, fire pit or campfire.

Built to last, the weed burner is constructed from heavy-duty powder-coated rust and corrosion-resistant steel.

Targeting weeds in hard-to-reach spots can be frustrating but not when you use this weed burner. Its very lightweight and has an extended 33-inch reach. The narrow torch head is perfect for killing weeds that lodge in between bricks. An ergonomic foam grip handle is comfortable to hold. The solid brass connector attaches to a small 16.4-ounce propane canister which makes this weed burner an extremely portable garden tool.

Firing up the BISupply weed burner is made easy with the self-igniting mechanism and quick-ignition trigger. An adjustable flow valve gives you complete control over gas pressure and flame output.

BISupply offers a 1-year warranty on the weed burner.


  • High quality
  • Very good value for money
  • Very affordable price
  • Ideal for weeding a small garden
  • Can be used to ignite a grill or fire pit, or melt ice
  • Heavy-duty powder-coated rust and corrosion-resistant steel
  • Powerful 20,000 BTU flame
  • Self-igniting mechanism
  • Quick-start ignition trigger
  • Solid brass connector attaches to a small propane canister
  • Adjustable flow/flame valve
  • Lightweight and portable
  • Extra-long reach
  • Ergonomic foam grip torch handle
  • Narrow torch head
  • 1-year warranty


  • Not effective on tough weeds or large weed or brush burning tasks

Check the price on Amazon ›

8. Bernzomatic Self-Igniting Weed Burner

The Bernzomatic Weed Burner is a highly versatile outdoor torch for any gardening enthusiast.

Made in the USA, this powerful 20,000 BTU weed burner is ideal for a variety of outdoor uses. Take control of weeds in your garden, lawn, or along a driveway. Instead of struggling to light a barbecue or fire pit, the Bernzomatic will do it for you in seconds! It can even be used for insect control or melting ice.

Sturdy and durable, the weed burner has a cast-aluminum construction and a solid brass tip.

Easy for newbies to use, the Bernzomatic has an integrated quick-start trigger mechanism that produces a large flame in an instant. You can use the flame control valve to adjust the flame to suit a particular job, such as a small pilot flame for removing weeds alongside a walkway. Turn up the gas to create a full flame for larger weeds. The flame control valve also helps you to quickly extinguish the flame when your weeding chores are done.

Ergonomically designed, the weed burner has an extended 36-inch reach that lets you work standing up and eliminates any back strain. A slip-resistant handle gives you a safe and comfortable grip. As the weed burner is compatible with a 14 or 16-ounce propane gas or MAPP canister, it offers you a lot of portability either at home or at the campsite.

Bernzomatic offers a 3-year limited warranty on the weed burner.


  • Very good quality
  • Very good value for money
  • Affordable price
  • Made in the USA
  • Ideal for small weed control tasks
  • Can be used for lighting a barbecue, fire pit, melting ice and insect control
  • Powerful 20,000 BTU
  • Durable and sturdy cast-aluminum
  • Quick-start trigger
  • Flame control valve
  • Lightweight and portable
  • Compatible with a propane or MAPP gas canister
  • Extended 36-inch reach
  • Slip-resistant handle
  • 3-year limited warranty


  • Not ideal for heavy-duty use
  • The adjustment knob is not very durable
  • The flame does not stay alight for very long

Check the price on Amazon ›

Our Top Pick for the Best Weed Burner

Mag-Torch Weed Burner

Our top pick for the best weed burner is the MagTorch Weed Burner.

We highly recommend the MagTorch Weed Burner for any type of weed burning tasks around your home. Since the 1970s, Magna Industries Inc has been the top choice for professional gardeners.

Delivering an unmatched powerful performance, the reliable MagTorch will obliterate any tough weeds that refuse to budge from your garden, lawn, or driveway.

Check the price on Amazon ›

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Garten Bewässerung

6 Ratschläge zur Überwindung von Gartenfehlern

We’ve all heard the hero in a movie say, “Failure is not an

When it comes to homesteading” and gardening>is possible.

If you’re someone who has tried to garden in the past only
to have your gardening style fail, can I encourage you? Don’t give up!

I had numerous gardens fail at the start of my homesteading journey, but where there’s a will, there’s a way. I’m going to share with you the steps you should take if your garden keeps failing.

Here’s what you must know to find gardening success:

1. Gardening Failure Isn’t Final

gardening failure - dead plants

The first bit of advice I’m going to give you is to realize failure isn’t final. Failure is a good thing. I know you’re looking at your computer screen saying to yourself, “This woman is not in my shoes. I need food growing in my garden – not failure.”

Here’s the thing, if you don’t fail, you won’t learn. I
learned much of how” to garden> and homestead from the mistakes I made along the journey.

If you choose to keep going, you won’t fail. You will find a
way to grow your own food. It may not be conventional or what you imagined it
to be, but you will find a way which works for you.

Plus, with each failure you experience, it’s more knowledge you can pass on to others who are trying to become self-sufficient.

Therefore, turn your failures into experiences and gain
knowledge from them. Don’t ever use them as an excuse to throw in the towel.

2. Double Check Your Method

gardening failure - weeds

Since we’ve had our pep talk, let’s put the wheels in
motion. If you’ve had a bad gardening experience, make sure it wasn’t a fluke.

There are years when specific pests” are terrible>, a
drought occurs, a%0Anatural” disaster happens>, or other unforeseen problems.

It may not have been anything you did or the gardening
method you chose. It could’ve been things which happened outside of your

Therefore, give your gardening method one more shot. If you’re concerned it won’t produce food and you need the food for survival, utilize a back-up gardening method.

You could grow raised” bed gardens> along with a traditional style garden. Doing this will double your food producing opportunities while figuring out what happened with your garden in the previous year.

3. Find the ‘Why’

Your garden has failed…numerous times at this point. It’s
safe to say the style of gardening chosen won’t work for your area. What now?

You must locate the ‘why.’ It’s vital to know why the garden
failed before choosing a different gardening style.

Do you live in an area where you have bad soil?” is your area prone to drought are you too busy care for a large garden therefore it becomes neglected and fails thrive>

Are you gardening on a hill? Do you have a short growing season? Are you watering” enough>

Or have you recently been forced to downsize and no longer
have the land to produce the traditional style garden you do now?

What is it which has changed your circumstances with
gardening, or what is it which is making it difficult for your garden to

When you know why you failed, you’re ready to tackle the problem and find the gardening style which should work for you.

4. Explore All Gardening Methods

Once you have your ‘why’ to your gardening fail, it’s time to explore all gardening” options>. If you’re working with limited space you may want to consider:

If soil is your problem, try the following methods of

Do you live in an area where you’re prone to drought, or you don’t have the time to invest in your gardening as you’d hoped? Here are a few methods which may be able to help:

Lastly, if you’re working with a difficult terrain for gardening, or if you struggle with having a long enough season to produce crops, there’s hope for you as well:

5. Un-do What’s Been Done

After a fair amount of research, you should be able to find a method of gardening which will work for your problem.

You may have to combine it with a few other methods to get
everything to where you need it to be, but again, where there’s a will there’s
a way.

For instance, if you’re someone who travels a great deal of the time, you may be able to use a gardening method which retains water well.

However, you might have to install a drip irrigation system to work along with it to keep everything watered while you’re away.

Alternatively, consider installing a sprinkler” timer> to keep watering the garden while you are away, or self-watering” planters> for your container garden.

When the solution is at hand, it’s time to fix what you’ve
done previously to make room for the new style of gardening.

Our first two gardens failed. The first year, we blamed our gardening failure on the virgin ground only to realize when we planted, we had allowed air to get to the roots. It killed the plants almost instantly.

The next year we figured out our mistake, but still had
doubts about the soil. We chose to use the no-till” gardening method.>

However, it didn’t take long to realize our garden was too big for us to use this method correctly. We couldn’t find enough materials to fully coat the ground.

We had a harvest,” but we also had a ton of decided to incorporate few garden beds>,
some container%0Agardening,” and go with a inground garden> to grow the amount of food we needed.

We also chose to garden in greenhouses” to extend our growing season and even allow us garden year-round. landscaping> was incorporated as well.

After we had established what our new plan was going to be, we had to till everything into the ground to make room for our new style of gardening and the” proper layout>.

This part was rather fun because we got to destroy the garden which had brought a ton of stress into my life.

6. Try, Try Again

The last stop on our ‘how to fix it’ tour is to keep at it. Put your new gardening plan in place, take adequate care of your garden, and hopefully, it will prosper.

You may still hit a few hiccups on this journey, however gardening evolves over time. It takes time to get your soil” in proper shape.>

It takes time to learn how” to water a garden properly>, plant seeds at the appropriate time, and to learn how” to harvest>, preserve,” and what you produced>.

In short, give yourself a break because you aren’t going to be perfect at any method of gardening right off the bat.

If you set yourself up for success, you may experience gardening failure a few more times, but eventually, you’ll get there with more knowledge than you started with.

This is what makes gardening great. You not only grow your
own food, but you get an education too.

I hope these steps have encouraged you to keep pushing
forward, keep exploring, and keep trying your hand at gardening.

Gardening failure is only final if you allow it to be. Don’t let it be final. Dig deep to learn where you went wrong and do research to correct the problem.

Just because one gardening method failed, it doesn’t mean they all will. We hope your perseverance will produce a bountiful harvest soon!

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Garten Bewässerung

So starten Sie einen Indoor-Garten richtig

So you’ve decided to step up your growing game and start an indoor garden. Whether you want to extend your growing season or add some more fresh food to your diet, there are a variety of vegetables, herbs, and fruits that do well indoors. You can provide yourself year-round with herbs, a nice salad or even lemons for some zing in your cooking.

An indoor garden isn’t just for supplementing an outdoor garden – it can be your only option if you live in the inner city or an apartment. Homesteaders who don’t have a greenhouse can start an indoor garden to meet their winter food needs.

When you start an indoor garden you need to pay attention to several things, but don’t feel overwhelmed. This article will help you learn what you need to know to get the most out of your plants.

A Place To Grow

The first step is to decide where to put your indoor garden. You may think you need to place it in front of a window or that you must have a sunroom. While natural light is best, you may not have enough daylight hours or space near a window to satisfy your plants.

In addition, unless your windows are well insulated, you may have a cold draft that can harm your plants. Air circulation is important, but cold drafts will slow down growth and can even kill sensitive plants.

The truth is as long as you provide supplemental light, you can place your garden anywhere – including a basement or the spare bedroom. In fact, I had a friend who made a closet into a growing area.

When you decide on where to put your indoor garden, measure your space carefully. You’ll need to purchase, salvage, or build a platform that fits into that location. If you’re using a shared space – like the kitchen – consider if it will get in the way of other activities such as eating or the kids doing homework.

How Much Room Do You Need?

You can make an indoor garden in a space as little as a square foot, or as big as an entire room. It’s up to you.

Herbs are popular if you have a small space such as a windowsill or tabletop. Lettuce needs slightly more room, but cutting lettuce requires less space than other varieties.

Kale and Swiss chard both do well inside, but they need a space with some height. Plants such as tomatoes and peppers grow well inside, but do get bushy and need more room. Plants such as tropical fruits need a taller space that allows them to grow.

When considering how much room your plants need, consider the size of the container. You want your plants to have a space that is large enough for good root growth.


Your plants need access to three basic things light,
water and air circulation.

Depending on the type, most plants do best with between 12-16 hours of light per day. Part of this can come from natural light via a window or door.

If you can’t provide that much sun, you’ll need to add artificial lighting. An indoor garden will do best under grow lights with bulbs that provide full-spectrum light. Full-spectrum lights imitate the sun’s wavelength and promote the plant’s natural process of photosynthesis.

There are many different systems and styles of grow lights, from something as simple as a bulb in a clamp fixture, to elaborate light stands. The trick is to consider how much you want to grow and how much space you need.

Single Lights

If you’re planning on growing a few containers near a window, you can get away with a clamp fixture with a full-spectrum bulb. You can make things easier on yourself by adding a timer to the light so your plants are getting consistent illumination.

Light Stands

If you decide to go the artificial light route, consider using light stands. How large of a system you need depends on your goals.

If you want to be able to supplement your pantry with fresh salads for a family then consider a larger shelf system such as the 3-Tier” sunlite garden.> A system like this has many advantages such as wide roomy shelves and lights that adjust up and down depending on how tall your plants are.

This kind of system is big enough that you can grow full-sized lettuce and kale. The other thing I like about a shelf system is that you can have high water and low water plants on different shelves. That way, you can water the lower shelf of high-water need plants twice a week, but only water the top shelf of low-water plants like rosemary and thyme once a week.

The disadvantage of this system is that it does get pricey. The larger complete systems run between $500 – $700.


Locating your indoor garden near a sink will save you from slopping water all over the house. How often you water plants is going to depend on the temperature and humidity of the room and what type of plants you are growing. For instance, a sage plant will not need much water but a lettuce plant will get thirsty.

All your plants will need good drainage. Make sure there are holes in the bottom of your container. Also, you can add some small stones to the bottom of the container so that water does not pool around the roots.

I keep plants in my kitchen near my woodstove because my house tends to be chilly. I noticed two things happening. My wood heat tends to dry out my plants and I need to water more frequently then if they are in the back bedroom.

The woodstove also dries out the air but I discovered if I covered the growing shelves with some plastic it helped keep the plants moist. Be aware though because warm moist air can cause fungal diseases.

Remember to aim for moist but not wet soil.

How to Tell If Your Plants Need Water

  • Feel the soil from the bottom of the container to see if it feels moist
  • Lift up the pot – wet plants weigh more than dry ones
  • Look for wilting leaves
  • Use a water” monitoring device>

There are lots of methods of giving plants water. Gravity feeding methods like a DIY” bottle or a drip system are common and you can also purchase automatic watering systems. of course always go the manual route with can.>


Another option is to use hydroponics. With a hydroponics” system>, you never have to think about watering your plants. Hydroponics uses little space and is low maintenance. Basically, it involves growing your plants in a wet medium that is self-enclosed. Fertilizer is added to the water to facilitate the growing process.

A tabletop hydroponic system is easy to use. To add some fun, you can purchase a model that sits on top of a fish” tank.> As a bonus, plants that are grown using hydroponics often grow faster because they have a constant supply of water and fertilizer.

Air Circulation

Many people overlook good air circulation when growing plants indoors. Good airflow protects plants from fungal and mold problems and moderates temperatures. If your plants are by a window, they may get air circulation from the window.

If you don’t have natural air circulation, the best way to add it manually is to use a small fan. The fan doesn’t need to be pointed at the plants. You want the air in the room to move around.

Since I have a wood stove, I have a small solar fan to help move the warm air away from the stove and out into the room. This is adequate for keeping the airflow going and discouraging molds or fungus.

Indoor Garden Tips

Indoor Gardening on a Budget

Designing and building” a system> will save you money and let you make a system for the space you have available. One DIY project is to buy a metal shelf – the ones they make for garages will suit your needs perfectly. Then, outfit the shelf with grow lights and trays.

If you’re short on space or want to start out small, you can purchase a clamp light and a few plastic trays. These work well for growing a few herbs or microgreens and cost little.

Get the Family Involved

Do you have young children in your household? An indoor” salad garden> makes a wonderful learning experience.

Indoor gardens give your children a way to connect with nature even when their world is covered in snow. Growing a salad garden on the kitchen table will teach children how plants grow, what they need to survive, and how delicious fresh food tastes.

Clear containers such as RootVue is a fun way for children to watch carrots and beets grow under the soil.

Hand Pollination

One thing to consider when you think about what plants
you will grow in your indoor garden is pollination.

Plants in the nightshade family such as tomatoes and peppers need their pollen to travel from one part of the flower to another. Outside this happens with wind and insects. To simulate this, give your flowering plants a little shake twice a day to help move the pollen to the appropriate spot.

Plants such as cucumbers and squashes need pollen to move from one flower to another. That may be on the same plant or a neighboring plant. Outside they’re pollinated by wind or insects. You can mimic outdoor pollination by hand.

Take a paintbrush such as one made for water coloring and dab it on the inside of the flowers. Then go to the next flower and do this again. In that way, you are like the honey bee going from flower to flower.

Plants As Décor

An indoor garden is not synonymous with drab and boring. There are many ways that you can incorporate edible plants into your décor.

Hanging plants are attractive and great for things that are vining such as strawberries, peas, and spinach. You can even place a grow light bulb in your overhead lamp to make sure they get adequate rays.

Also, you can look for plant” stands> that coordinate with your décor or make” your own>. Window boxes are not just for the outside of the window. Place one on the inside so you can enjoy your plants all winter.

The Bottom Line

Having an indoor garden is a smart way to extend the season, produce fresh vegetables for the table and add a new dimension to your gardening. Now that you have the basics, you’re ready to get started. Let us know how it goes in the comments.

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Garten Bewässerung

18 Gartenarbeiten im Herbst, um Ihren Garten auf die nächste Stufe zu heben

There’s a whole lot more to gardening than just putting seeds in the ground, watering plants, and harvesting. In fact, most of the work related to gardening comes in the form of planning, soil preparation, and preventative problem-solving.

As the growing season winds down and your waning landscape begins to reveal the beauty and potential in its bones, it’s time to get busy with fall gardening projects. Now, I’m not just talking about the typical” fall garden maintenance> that you do for annual gardens. I’m also not referencing the summer planting you do to get a fall” and winter harvest>.

This post is all about the big projects – the fall gardening activities – you want to tackle in fall and early winter, before your ground freezes to make spring gardening so much easier.

Ground Breaking for New Areas

Fall is the time to break ground on new garden areas. Whether you’ll be starting a new vegetable garden, expanding an old, or doing some edible” perennial landscaping>, fall is the time to start. Unless you lucked into perfect land that’s level, with loamy soil, and excellent drainage, there are a host of projects you may need to tackle on the ground before you ever start your first seed or transplant.

1. Leveling or Terracing

A slight slope in a garden can be a
good thing to promote good drainage. More than that though and you’ll
need to level the area or create terraces to keep soil and nutrients
from racing away from the root of your plants.

– Leveling

Leveling on a small scale can be done with a shovel, rake, and a carpentry level. For larger areas, you may need earthmovers, A-frame levels, or a laser level to accurately alter your slope.

– Terracing

Terracing is similar to leveling with
the added component of building up part of your landscape using some
sort of stabilizing force to prevent soil loss. Rock embankments,
walls, landscape ties, and more can be used for creating terraces.

For terraces of more than a foot or two, you also need to create drainage opportunities so that water can flow through the soil retaining structure. Pipes used for French drains are common options to direct the flow.

2. Direct Drainage

If your garden is downslope of other areas, then you also have to factor in excess water that flows from there may settle in your now level or terraced areas. Before you start planting, you’ll want to dig drainage ditches above your garden or install formal drains to direct the water where you need it.

In areas with lots of rain, you may want to create swales to move water around the outside of your garden. In dry areas, creating irrigation channels that will hold and funnel water deeper into the soil might be a good option. You may also want to harness runoff in ponds for later use.

3. Soil Percolation Perfecting

Double digging

Soil percolation varies by soil type. Ideally, you want the soil to hold some water for extended use but also shed excess water so you don’t end up gardening in a bog. Depending on your starting soil type, you may need to do some work to improve soil percolation before you start planting.

– Soil Amendments

Adding soil amendments like compost” and mold> can dramatically improve your soil percolation rates. In a brand new garden, adding as much of these amendments as possible and tilling them in will give you the best start.

If your soil is impossibly hard to work, then try sheet” mulching> in fall and lightly tilling in early spring to see benefits without breaking your back to get them.

– Double Digging

If you have the stamina and strength then you may want to use the technique of double digging and incorporating amendments to get the best results. Double digging basically involves digging out the first foot of soil, then using a tiller” to loosen the foot below that. as you do this incorporate lots of compost and leaf mold into soil improve drainage.>

4. Perennial Weed Removal

Annual weeds can be removed as they emerge during the gardening season. But perennial” weeds> such as brambles or anything with a long taproot can be removed before planting.

If you improve percolation or double
dig, that’s also the perfect time to remove as much of the perennial
plant root systems as you can to make your weeding easier during the
growing season.

Pest Prevention

Garden” pests> come in many forms. There are herbivores like deer, rabbits, and voles to worry about. There are insects that might be overwintering in your yard waiting to eat your plants come spring. Plus, there is micro life like fungal pathogens, nasty nematodes,” and bacterial bad guys to worry about.>

Fall is a perfect time to take preventative” action> to keep those pests from pestering your plants during the growing season.

5. Install Fences

I haven’t met a garden yet that won’t benefit from a good” fence>. Whether it’s wildlife, the neighbor’s dog, or your own darn chickens” gardens without fences invite trouble. installing is much easier in fall as the greenery dies back and cooler weather makes soil to work.>

6. Solarize Soil

If you had severe soil-based plant diseases during the prior growing season, it might be time to solarize. Now, I’m not really a fan of this process because it kills good guys and bad guys alike. But, if it’s truly necessary cover your soil with plastic on a series of sunny days so the soil scorches.

It takes a few more days to do this in fall and winter, but as long as temperatures get over 130°F under that plastic it can help. Heating the soil to unsurvivable temperatures turns it lifeless and gives you a fresh start on pests and pathogens. It’ll not only take out many fungi, bacteria, and nematodes but will also get your overwintering insect pests too.

The downside of this process is that you then have dead soil and you need to work hard for the next few years to encourage beneficial soil life to come back and help you grow your plants. Solarizing should be reserved for extreme circumstances. After solarizing or as an alternative to it, work on increasing soil life diversity.

7. Bring in the Good Guys

So, those nasty nematodes,” bacterial bad guys and fungal pathogens that i mentioned earlier well they only a problem with get out of hand. as long are kept in check part diverse thriving population large quantities micro life tend to be much less problematic.>

Fall is a wonderful time to make improvements to your soil that will encourage more diversity of micro life. Basically, the way to do this is to increase the organic matter content in your soil through a variety of methods.

Adding well-aged compost and vermicompost” are key. using mycorrhizal inoculant and covering the soil with wood mulch until spring can kick start things.>

Incorporating biochar into your soil is also beneficial. Trench” composting> is an easy way to make compost and build micro life in the cold seasons before the ground freezes.

Also, make plans to encourage beneficial insects and birds too. Consider adding a pollinator” plot> to your annual vegetable garden.

Add Infrastructure

Mature Hugelkultur

Fall is also a great time to implement
changes to your garden design or new garden layouts.

8. Pathways

When I make new gardens, I like to steal the soil from my pathways” to put on the beds. then i backfill paths with leaves straw uncomposted livestock manure and several inches of mulch. that much easier do when temperatures are cool.>

I also like to add trellises” and details> to existing paths in fall too.

9. Hugelkulturs, Herb Spirals, and Keyhole Gardens

Herb Spiral

If you plan to use permaculture techniques like building hugelkultures,” fall is a great time to that. as forest leaves drop and greenery die back it easier get into the woods drag out downed trees your base.>

Similarly, installing a herb” spiral> or keyhole” garden> using natural materials is also easier in fall.

10. Ponds

If you are going to put a pond” in your backyard>, fall is a great time to do that digging. Plus, if you live in an area with a lot of fall, winter, and spring precipitation, it will fill faster at this time.

11. Seating Areas

If your garden needs a new” patio or seating area>, fall is a great time to do any leveling, flooring installation and adding any hardscape materials. Just make sure to do it before the ground freezes.

12. Install A Greenhouse

If you have plans to add a greenhouse,” hoop house or protected growing structure>, fall weather makes this easier. If you have it in by winter, then you can do some experimentation with winter gardening to get a sense of the kind of climate range you can create in your protected space. That will help you decide what to plant when in your space.

Plant Perennials

Except in climates with extremely short growing seasons, fall is a perfect time to plant perennials.

13. Start An Orchard

If having a mini or massive orchard is on your homestead to-do list, fall is a great time to that. Fruit” trees planted in fall> in many climates will do better and produce fruit sooner than those planted in spring.

14. Incorporate
An Edible Landscape

For me, my edible” landscapes> always start with livestock rotation. I bring in the ducks,” pigs or chickens to do some preparation work for me. then once they cleared weeds controlled pest populations and added fertility i my groundbreaking soil building put in edible plants>.

15. Add
Ornamental Plants

Ornamental Gardening

In homesteading, we tend to focus on edible plants. But, having a beautiful homestead, full of continuous color and flowers that bloom from spring to winter nourishes the soil and provides wildlife habitat. So, if you have the room, add some plants that appeal to your ornamental aesthetics yet also support a thriving ecosystem.

Plan Ahead

Fall is also the
best time to plan ahead for the following year. With any challenges
you faced this year in mind, make strategies for how to overcome them
next year.

16. Crop

I like to make
adjustments to my crop rotation schedule in fall while the problems
are fresh on my mind and so that I have time to buy the right seeds
in winter to be ready for spring.

– Nitrogen

For example, if my corn was slow to grow and had yellowing in the leaves, then I might make a plan to use a legume cover crop with rhizobia inoculant before I think about putting my tomatoes in that location next spring.

– Fungal Pathogens

If I had fungal
pathogens in a bed, then I might make notes to grow a cover crop of
mustard in late winter and early spring. Then I could lightly till
that in and plant something less prone to fungal pathogen prone in
late spring to break up fungal pathogen cycles.

– Root-Knot Nematodes

If I had poor production due to root-knot nematodes, then I’ll want to make notes to load that bed with French marigolds to be lightly tilled in at the end of the growing season. I’ll also want to plant something that root-knot nematodes don’t like as my primary crop.

17. Order
Specialty Plants

passion Fruit growing

Most people buy
plants in spring when they can actually garden. But for some hard to
grow or specialty plants, they may already be sold out come spring.
Even if your plants won’t ship until spring, fall is a great time to
order hard to find items to ensure you get them when you want them.

18. Irrigation

Fall is also the perfect time to research and plan a new irrigation system. While your garden is bare, you can do all the things you need to do such as to measure your slope, your distances, test water pressure, figure out your line layout, and more.

Your irrigation methods will need to be tailored to what you will plant. Emitter placement, flow rate, frequency of application, and more will all need to be factored into your plan. So, by working out your planting schedule and your irrigation plan simultaneously in fall, you can save time.


Whether you leveling your land to start a new garden or trying to up your garden and gardening skills a level or two, fall is the perfect time to lay the groundwork with our list of fall gardening activities.

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Garten Bewässerung

Wie Sie Unkräuter in Ihrem Garten verhindern und sie stoppen, sobald sie anfangen

If there’s one thing that aggravates me the most about gardening, it’s weeds. Just when you think you’ve got on top of them, they reappear. Learning how to prevent weeds so you don’t have to deal with them in the first place goes a long way toward easing that irritation.

Weeds pop up in every available bare spot and, if left to grow, can reach massive proportions. On top of that, there are so many varieties to deal with that they require a range of techniques. Weeds are often ugly, they steal your plant’s nutrition, and they spread disease. Rather than battling them constantly, it’s best to learn how to prevent weeds instead.

It’s important to remember that you will never eradicate weeds completely from your garden, so don’t get frustrated if you still see weeds pop up now and then. Do the best you can to prevent the severity of the infestation, but have realistic expectations. With that said, using these techniques can absolutely help you get a leg up on the problem.

How to Prevent Weeds


Add mulch, then more mulch, and then a bit more. Mulching is one of the best ways to suppress weeds. Weed seeds are always under the soil’s surface waiting to germinate. That’s why when you have a bare surface or you dig and don’t mulch, weeds pop up. A good layer of mulch prevents seeds from getting the sun and space they need to thrive.

Apart from retaining moisture and feeding your plants, mulching keeps the weed seeds from pushing through the surface. That’s why a good thick layer of mulch is effective.

Don’t Feed the Weeds

When I first started gardening, I fed and watered the entire garden, not just the plants. Now I use irrigation systems where water is drip-fed directly to my plants and vegetables. When I feed with liquid fertilizer, I use a watering can and only feed the base of plants, not the surrounding area.

If you don’t create a welcoming environment for weeds, they’ll be less likely to come.

Crowd With Good Plants

This is my most successful method of preventing weeds – and probably the easiest. The idea is if there’s no space for the weeds to grow, they can’t take hold.

In an ornamental garden, plant plenty of groundcover between taller plants. In vegetable gardens, plant so that the leaves of the plants will touch when they are mature in order to limit sunshine to any weeds looking to germinate.

Limit Digging and Tilling

Weed seeds are always below the surface waiting for the right condition to sprout, which are provided when you dig and till your soil, so try to disturb the soil in your garden as little as possible.

Dig specific holes for your plants, rather than tilling up the whole garden. If you plant seeds, poke holes sufficient for the size of the seed only.

Solarize Your Garden

I’ve used this method on smaller areas of my gardens and had pretty good success, but you do need some patience. This” process> is particularly helpful if you’re going to start a new garden and you want to clear the area of weeds before you dig it in.

Lay a sheet of clear plastic over your weedy area. Over 4 to 6 weeks, the sun shining through burns the weeds. Of course, this method only works in warm, sunny weather, so forget it in winter.

Cover with Newspaper

This is such an easy and economical method for how to prevent weeds. It’s perfect for smaller areas and spots you’re preparing for ground cover. Simply lay multiple layers of newspaper or cardboard over the ground and around your existing plants.

Ensure you add plenty of layers, and as the newspaper rots, it will feed the soil.

Boiling Water

This old fashioned method is ideal for weeds where you don’t have other plants. In particular, it’s perfect between stones and rock pathways. Boil a kettle of water and pour over the weeds.

Spray with Vinegar

This is another old fashioned method that has stood the test of time. My mom uses a spray bottle filled with apple cider vinegar that she carries with her when she potters in the garden. Spray a mix of 1 gallon of white vinegar and 1 tablespoon of salt on the leaves, stalk and surrounding soil of offending weeds.

Create a Physical Barrier

Often weeds creep in because there’s no barrier between the garden and non-garden areas. Use garden edging, retaining walls or other barriers to keep weeds away.

Wood Chips

A thick layer of wood chips (or rubber chips) is an effective way to suppress weeds. Just like a forest floor that is continually being covered by the canopy, wood chips provide a natural cover that stops weeds from growing.

Another benefit of using a thick layer of wood chips is that the soil is given natural nutrition as the wood slowly rots. Use untreated, non-colored wood chips in any garden where you’re going to eat the plants.

Reduce Space

I had some lovely plants in an area with a good amount of open space. I didn’t want mulch or bark as it didn’t fit the area. Because there was open ground, the weeds popped up. I used an old log, a wagon wheel and other items that covered the ground enough to keep most of the weeds away. Those that did appear stood out so much I could easily pull them as they appeared.

You can do something similar by adding decorative elements that will reduce the amount of ground space that weeds have to take hold in.

Get Rid of Weeds

Despite your best efforts to learn how to prevent weeds, a few of the sneaky pests got through. Wondering how to get rid of them?

Pull the Weeds

Sounds logical right? The trick is to pull the weeds at the right time. There are two things to be mindful of.

  1. Pull the weeds before they seed. Weeds are prolific spreaders and once they seed, they spread fast.
  2. Pull weeds when the ground is wet and soft. Many weeds have long, hard tap roots that snap off when the soil is hard and compact. Weeds are so prolific you only need to leave an inch of taproot in the ground and it will regrow.

Know Your Weeds

Identify the weeds that grow in your garden. There are some good, natural” weed killers> available, but many are weed specific so ensure you have correctly identified the exact weed.

Eat the Weeds

Remember, some weeds” are edible> and nutritious. Dandelions are my favorite, but there are many others. Don’t use chemical sprays on the weeds if anyone in your family is going to eat them.

The Bottom Line

Weeds can be frustrating for gardeners and there are many natural and chemical ways to get rid of them once they appear. The most efficient way to win the battle is to prevent them before they appear.

You’ll never eradicate weeds completely, so control them as best you can using the methods above – and enjoy your garden, even if you do have a few weeds.

If you have any ideas on how to prevent weeds in the garden, we’d love to hear from you so we can share your techniques.

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Garten Bewässerung

2 vertikale Gartenbewässerungsoptionen, damit Ihre Wohnwand gedeiht

If you buy an item via links on this page, we may earn a commission. Our editorial content is not influenced by commissions. Read the full disclosure.

Have you ever heard of or seen a vertical” garden>?

If you’re not familiar with the different” styles of gardening>, you may wonder why anyone would grow a garden vertically.

Being able to grow in any situation is important. I’m going
to walk you through when a vertical garden could work in your growing situation.

More importantly, I’ll share the different vertical garden irrigation methods which can make your life easier. Irrigation” systems> can make growing” a garden> a simpler task and is well worth the investment when it can save you a great deal of time and resources.

Here’s what you must know before jumping on the vertical
garden bandwagon:

When Does a Vertical Garden Work?

Vertical gardens are great for many reasons. If you lack space outside, you can implement a vertical garden and still grow a variety of shallow-rooted” crops.>

A vertical garden would work for apartment dwellers or those who live in the city and don’t have much of a yard. Vertical” gardening> is a beautiful option for those who would like to create a wall of privacy, block a specific area in their yard, or draw attention to a specific area in their yard.

If you fall into any of these categories, vertical gardening
could be for you.

Vertical Garden Irrigation with Gravity Fed Drip Irrigation

vertical garden irrigation

Vertical gardens need a special irrigation system. Because they have smaller amounts of soil, they dry up easier.

To avoid watering constantly, installing an irrigation system can save you a great deal of time. Here’s when, why, and how a gravity fed drip irrigation system works best for a vertical garden:

1. Shallow Vertical Gardens

Gravity fed drip irrigation systems work best for the shallow and narrow vertical gardens. Some vertical gardens are created with small pockets for the plants to grow in.

There isn’t a great deal of room for soil. Therefore, you must go with a gravity fed drip irrigation system for the water to drip directly into each pocket.

It will keep the soil moist, the plants growing, and ensure the water won’t be wasted by running out of the designated area.

2. Take the Emitter Route

Most gravity fed drip irrigation systems have emitters which
attach to the hose. The hose can run from a bladder of water hanging near the
vertical garden, it can run from a rain barrel which collects rainwater, or it
can be attached to a spigot.

The gravity fed system can be designed where the emitters
sit snuggly inside the pocket where the crops are growing.

Water will drip from the emitters at a steady rate to keep the soil consistently moist, giving the crops what they need to produce and keep the soil from drying out.

3. Keeps the Water Flowing

Plants require a good amount of water. If you stick your
finger in the soil and it’s dry approximately one inch below the surface, your
plants are struggling.

By using an irrigation system, this will avoid the soil” from drying out. it particularly dangerous for your plants when they don grow where surrounded by large amounts of soil.>

This is where they pull all their water and nutrients from. When working with smaller growing environments, watering regularly and enough is the top priority.

Choosing the right irrigation system, will stop the concern
of wondering whether your plants are receiving” enough water>.

Vertical Garden Irrigation with Buried Reservoir Irrigation

living wall vertical garden

Some gardeners create larger vertical gardens on a stand. These gardens are still considered vertical gardens, but the plants are growing in horizontal planters which turn into a living wall.

You can water this style of vertical garden differently than
you do the vertical gardens which are grown in small pockets of soil.

There still isn’t a great deal of soil in this style of a
vertical garden (which makes watering a high priority), but it does give
options as to which irrigation system would work best.

You can use a drip irrigation system in this style of
vertical garden, but another option is to bury a reservoir of water and allow
the soil to perform a suction action.

As the soil needs water, it will suck water from the reservoir. You can use an unglazed terracotta pot called an olla.

The sides are porous, which allows the water to seep through as needed. If this isn’t in the budget, you can also bury a plastic water bottle with small holes in it.

As the soil needs water, it’ll suck it through the holes.
This allows the soil to remain moist and balanced. This style of irrigation
system is easy to refill when needed.

Keep an eye on the moisture level in the reservoir because
you don’t want it to drop below half. When it does, there’s a buildup which can
occur and will stop the water from being able to be suctioned through the wall
of the reservoir.

Depending upon the weather and size of the reservoir, it may
need to be filled anywhere from once a week to every couple of days.

Tips for the Vertical Gardener

vertical garden irrigation

There are a few things you should know when irrigating a
vertical garden. Here are the items to be aware of and look out for:

1. It Works All the Way Around

Some people use vertical gardens inside and outside” of their homes. they make a wonderful natural d item in your home.>

Yet, they can be used for more functional” purposes> outside of your home. Either way, both irrigation systems work.

Don’t assume because your plants are indoors, you can’t keep the water flowing to them. Drip irrigation and reservoir irrigation shouldn’t make a mess inside your home and should be used whenever possible.

It will save yourself some work and help your plants to have the best opportunity to thrive.

2. System Maintenance

Irrigation systems will require small doses of maintenance
along the way. With a drip irrigation system, it’s important to make sure the
emitters don’t become clogged.

You should include a filter on the system which the water
will run through to block debris from entering the emitters.

However, soil can still clog them. Make this part of your maintenance
routine to check them.

When dealing with a reservoir, it’s important to add a lid
to the reservoir and keep the water half full at a minimum.

A lid will stop debris from entering the container and stop buildup from occurring inside the reservoir allowing the water to seep through it as needed.

You now know which irrigation systems work best for a vertical garden. Irrigation systems can be used for regular watering or as part of a watering routine while” you away from home> for an extended time.

Either way, both methods should be effective in keeping your
plants healthy and thriving. With vertical gardens, you can grow any style of
garden anywhere you’d like.

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Garten Bewässerung

Was Sie über die Verwendung von Wassertrögen im Garten wissen müssen

Water troughs, or stock tanks as they’re also called, make fabulous gardening beds. They’re a smart replacement for the typical wooden raised beds because they’re sturdy and last a long time.

I don’t have city water on my rural farm, so we rely on a rain catchment system instead. I have stock tanks in several places that not only catch and hold water but are available for livestock.

These stock tanks are outside all year and eventually, due to freezing and thawing, the material develops cracks. That’s when I move the tank from the gutter system and out to the gardens.

Having a leak in the trough is an advantage when they’re being used for plants, since it provides some drainage. Water troughs in the garden are a handy way to reduce weeding, increase your gardening area, and help you avoid burrowing animals. It’s a win-win situation.

Photo: Ame Vanorio

Advantages of Using Water Troughs

So why should you use water troughs in the garden?

  • They’re easy peasy – no building required
  • Durability – they last forever (ok, not quite, but a long time)
  • A good investment – they can be affordable and versatile
  • They keep out many types of wildlife such as groundhogs, chipmunks, and rabbits
  • Easy to find at farm stores, garden centers, in the classifieds and online
  • Depth promotes good root growth
  • Ideal for areas that have poor soil
  • You can paint them if you want to get creative
  • Easier to weed and tend to get fewer weeds
  • Raised for those who have health issues that make bending or crouching difficult


  • They’re heavy, especially after you fill them with soil
  • The metal ones absorb heat and can become hot in summer, so you have to be thoughtful about what you plant
  • Like other plant containers, they dry out quickly and need more frequent watering

Types of Stock Tanks

A variety of sizes and materials are available. The two most common ones are galvanized metal and poly (polyethylene). Both can be found made with recycled materials, which will lower your carbon footprint.

The price for both types is pretty comparable,
although the price of steel tends to fluctuate more with availability and

Both poly and galvanized tanks are commonly found at farm stores. I personally don’t think one is better than the other. It boils down to what you like and what type is readily available in your area. Tractor” supply company> frequently has sales on the poly tanks, so that’s often what I get.

There are also troughs made of stone, hollowed-out logs, and non-galvanized stainless steel, though these are less common.

You can find tanks in shorter sizes, typically marketed for sheep and goats, or in taller sizes for cattle and horses. Both are adequate for your garden needs. The taller you go, the more room your plants have. In addition, taller tanks are easier on your back and require less bending.

Regardless of what you choose, any trough filled with water will eventually succumb to the freezing and thawing action as the seasons shift, causing cracks and leaks. This means that they’re easy to find used as people retire them from holding water. Check out Craigslist or your local classifieds, or let friends know you’re interested and you’re sure to get your hands on a few.

When water troughs are filled with soil, they’re less likely to suffer winter damage. This is because the soil doesn’t expand as much as water when frozen.

Note that often in garden stores, you will see metal planting containers that look like stock tanks. These are not the same thing. They may be serviceable for what you want them to do, however, metal garden containers aren’t designed to hold water and the metal isn’t as sturdy. Typically, they don’t have bottoms so they won’t stop weed growth from coming up through them.

Health Considerations

There are a few health concerns to consider with some troughs. Galvanized troughs may leach chemicals into the ground. Galvanization is the process of applying a layer of zinc to the steel. This keeps the tank from rusting and protects the steel.

There is some concern that zinc will leach into the soil from galvanized tanks and that this could be harmful to humans. Studies haven’t proven excess zinc in garden troughs made from galvanized metal, but it’s something to keep in mind. Water troughs aren’t the only concern. Galvanization was commonly used on water pipes before PVC became widely available.

There’s also some concern about poly materials leaching antimony, a toxic metalloid, into food. Some polys can leach estrogenic chemicals into the soil, so you might want to avoid them if you’re feeding youngsters and juveniles with food grown in plastic troughs.

If those issues are a concern to you, stick with stainless steel, wood, or stone water troughs in the garden.

What Size Should I Buy?

You can use any size of water troughs for your garden. It all depends on where you wish to place them, what you plan on growing, and what you have available in your area.

Livestock tanks are typically round or oval-shaped. They range from 30 gallons to 300 gallons.

You can choose one that is long and narrow or tall and wide, it’s all a matter of preference. The best size is at least one foot deep, but two feet tall is more desirable to give your plants’ roots plenty of room.

I use 100-150 gallon black stock tanks. That fits with my system of using the tank under a gutter to supply water for animals before it ends up in the garden.

Preparing to Use Water Troughs in the Garden


It is important to provide good drainage. Many stock tanks have a drainage hole in them. I take the cap off and leave it open. If your tank doesn’t have a drain plug, then you’ll need to drill a few holes in the bottom of the tank to allow drainage. Use a half-inch drill bit for a good-sized hole.

Fill the bottom of the stock tank with some gravel or stone.  I deliberately place some larger stone around the drainage hole so that soil does not clog it. You can also use large wood chips, but they will decay over time.

In addition, you can place the tanks on a layer of gravel to increase drainage and reduce water pooling under the trough. This also looks attractive if you gardening in a more urban area. By spreading the gravel out you can reduce muddy paths and improve access your garden during rainy weather.

Filling with Soil

There are two methods to filling up your trough. One is the method of purchasing soil and filling the container. This is ideal if you’re in a time crunch and want to start planting.

Keep in mind that a 2x2x6 foot tank will take about 14 bags of soil. A larger 200-gallon tank will take approximately 18 1.5 cubic foot bags of soil.

The downside is that this method is more expensive and you don’t have the same control over your soil quality you would if you mixed your own.

The second method is what I prefer. Basically, I fill the water trough with materials off the farm and give it some time to settle. Here’s how it works.

After you put in stones for drainage, place some sticks and branches on top as the next layer. This is a lazy way of implementing the H%C3%BCgelkultur%C2%A0method” to improve the soil.>

The natural decay of the wood offers a slow release of nutrients over time. The decaying branches also expel heat as they decay which is great for season extension, and they absorb water which they release when the soil becomes too dry.

Next, I begin filling the tank. Depending on the season, I fill the tank about 80% with either aged or fresh manure. If it’s spring and I foresee using the stock tank in the near future, I fill the tank with aged compost. This serves as an immediate nutrition boost to my plants without burning them.

If it’s fall or winter, I fill the garden trough with fresh manure. During the course of freezing and thawing the manure will break down. Keep in mind that as the manure breaks down it will also settle. You may need to keep adding additional manure and compost throughout the season.

Amending the Soil

After you have filled your trough with stones, sticks, and your primary material, it’s time to make the soil perfect for your plants.

This past winter I was slowly filling a 150-gallon plastic stock tank. I knew my goal was to place tomatoes and green peppers in the tank and record the pounds of produce I received off the small space. So I added amendments that would be beneficial to those crops. Several times during my layering of manure I sprinkled in some bone meal.

If you’re planting something that prefers acidic soil, mix in elemental sulfur. If you have plants that need lots of moisture, add peat moss or humus-rich compost.

Top everything off with high-quality potting soil. I mix this into the compost for about six inches. This gives me a nice, firm soil to place my seeds or transplants.

At this point, I like to add a strip of landscaping fabric. I’m not the world’s best weeder, so fabric helps compensate for my weakness.

Photo: Ame Vanorio

You can also use any mulch that you have handy such as straw or wood chips. Having a layer of mulch also helps keep your plants hydrated.

Add Your Plants

Now it’s time to add your plants or seeds. Remember to check your soil to make sure it’s damp. Stock tanks are like containers. They have greater air exposure, which causes water to evaporate quickly. Also, be sure to check the spacing needs of your plants.

Ideas for Using Water Troughs in the Garden

There’s nothing wrong with going basic with your water troughs in the garden. You can also have a little fun with things and get creative with your tank.


Paint your water troughs to accent your garden. Copper will set off red foliage, while yellow will highlight a trough full of lettuce greens. You can also be practical with your color choices. White will prevent the container from getting too hot, while black can absorb the heat for extending your growing season. Top a black trough with plastic and you could keep growing an extra month.

Make it Mobile

You can use an old pallet with wheels attached as a base for your water trough. That way, you can shift it around to capture or avoid the sunlight.

Privacy Screen

If you have a spot in the yard that you’d like to separate from the rest, or if you have an eyesore that you’d like to avoid looking at, consider creating a privacy screen using your water trough. The trough provides extra height, so if you grow some trees in the container, you’ll have an instant privacy.

Add Irrigation

Want to make your water trough garden self-sufficient? Add irrigation. You can plop a sprinkler into the center of the tank, but you can also create a self-watering” system>. In all depends on how much work and money you want to put into your garden.

Bring the Garden to You

If your garden is far away from your house and you long to be able to grab some veggies or herbs while you’re cooking, use a water trough on your patio to bring the garden to you. A good-sized trough can house a salsa garden, a zucchini, or a ton of herbs so you have them right where you need them.

How do you plan to make your water trough garden unique? Share in the comments.

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